Feb 25, 2002 4:30 AM
Sorry for this stupid message, pls. forgive me. How does one patch a tube? i have bought the Zefal patch but not quite confident on how to effectively use it. And the most important thing, how long does a patch tube last??
|The patch will last longer than the tube.||McAndrus|
Feb 25, 2002 6:41 AM
|First find the hole in the tube. If you're at home, put some air in it and put it in some water: moving around the tube until air bubbles appear. If you're on the road you'll have to pump it up a little and listen for the air leak. If you think you've found the hole, you might try spitting on it to see if it bubbles up.
Second, clean the tube around the hole, scuff it up with the scuffing thingy, smear a drop of glue over and around the hole big enough to seat the patch. Then remove the backing paper from the patch, apply the patch over the hole, and press for a few seconds.
If you've done it correctly, the patch will last longer than the tube itself.
Feb 25, 2002 7:27 AM
|Glueless patches (Park, etc.) don't last very long. They're usually good only for a quick fix on the road. Peel 'em off when you get home and go with the gluey, gooey patch.|
|Caveat to the caveat....||cory|
Feb 25, 2002 7:52 AM
|I've given up on glueless patches completely--the failure rate, at least when I use them, is 50 percent or more on road tubes. The old-fashioned kind only take a minute or so longer, and as the other poster said, they'll outlast the tube.|
|Caveat to the caveat to the caveat...||Elefantino|
Feb 25, 2002 8:16 AM
|Actually, the Parks aren't bad. I was once almost 40 miles out and had to patch with one, and then forgot about it and rode the next day 60 miles+.
I've found, though, that the longer you leave them on the easier it is to take them off. I tried to take one off after a ride and tore a bigger hole in the tube. But I rotate my tubes (can't remember when I bought my last new one) and after a few days they pull off like old cellophane tape.
Let's face it. They were made for quick fixes on the go, not permanent replacements.
And for lazy people who hate gluing on the road.
|You forgot "let the glue get tacky"...||ohio|
Feb 25, 2002 9:41 AM
|Maybe implied, but just in case:
Let the glue get tacky (it stops looking shiny, more matte) before you apply the patch. The firmly rub the patch into place with something firm (the round end of a tire lever works well) on a hard surface. Wait at least 5 minutes before pumping it back up. That's why I always just carry a spare, and then do my patching at home. Still carry the kit in case I get more than one flat. It's so small you might as well...
|Yup and ...||jtolleson|
Feb 25, 2002 12:18 PM
|the sanding (with the scuffy thing!) should be a fair bit bigger than the patch; the glue applied a little bigger than the patch, and then the patch seated AFTER a full 3-4 minutes of letting the glue get semi-dry. If the underlying surface isn't well scuffed, or if the glued area doesn't extend past the edge of the patch, you're asking for a spot that will attempt to peel up. But if you are disciplined and do it right, it works like a charm.
Ditto to the above about carrying a spare. I do all my patching in front of the TV, not by the side of the road.
|Uh, you have to let the glue dry before patching (nm)||Kerry Irons|
Feb 25, 2002 6:30 PM
|re: Patching tubes...||aggieman|
Feb 25, 2002 8:09 PM
|The key to getting the patch to hold well is to sand the surface bigger than the patch size and thoroughly Medium grit sand paper works best, making sure the shiny rubber outside of the tube is no longer shiny. Then apply glue and let dry to a haze.
Place patch on and rub over entire top of patch firmly to remove any bubble and create the bond. I use a tire lever to do this.
Then you should be ready to go.