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Good Wheel Decision??(9 posts)

Good Wheel Decision??Pat1
Feb 16, 2002 9:27 PM
Well, I finally came into some extra cash for my new wheels. Here's my plan. Mavic cxp33's laced to Chris King Hubs with 14g DT spokes. 32 hole 3-cross. I weigh about 240 and ride about 150 miles a week. No racing, just training and an occassional century. Any feedback on this wheelset? I want something strong that will last. I currently ride cxp23's laced to ritchey comp hubs.
You know how those hubs are going to sound, right?Leisure
Feb 17, 2002 1:33 AM
Since so many people think it's something to complain about. I love the Kings on my mountainbike (I think they're manly-sounding). Remember to get them tightened after the break-in period. I think it's about twenty hours of riding or so. I also agree with your decision to go 3-cross at your weight. I don't know anything about the rims or spoke gauge, though.
re: Good Wheel Decision??davet
Feb 17, 2002 8:19 AM
Another choice might be Phil Wood hubs rather than Chris King. I just had a set of wheels built, Mavic Open Pro, 14/15g DT, 32h cross 3. I'm 200# and do a lot of distance rides. The reason I went with Phil hubs is the user servicability, & quiet (Kings are LOUD!) I just built a Serotta CSI, figured the bike was a 'forever' bike and the wheels should be too. Got a screamin' deal on the wheelbuild. E-mail me for info on the builder.
Feb 17, 2002 8:37 AM
This loudness issue might well be related to lube type and qty. I acknowledge that louness is
subjective, but mine seem not at all loud, but actually quieter than ratchet-type Vector Comps.
The buzz takes a little getting used to but ratchet wheels now seem a little wierd.
Feb 17, 2002 10:19 PM
I've heard the same, and recently got my King hub serviced and it actually is quieter with more grease.
re: Good Wheel Decision??41-42-hike
Feb 17, 2002 8:41 AM
The loudness is a minor consideration- all Kings are this way. If you want really strong, get 36-hole and use 14g spokes.
I'd lean towards Phil Wood hubs also...Barnyard
Feb 17, 2002 9:20 AM
I'd lean towards Phil Wood hubs also...Kevlar
Feb 17, 2002 10:58 AM
I'd go with different less expensive hubs, perhaps dura ace. One of the biggest attributes of C. Kings hubs is their light weight, however you said you are gonna lace them to CXP33 rims (a pretty heavy rim) so you really are defeating the purpose of spending $350 on a light pair of hubs matched to heavy rims. Dura Ace hubs are a bit heavier, but with CXP33's it doesn't seem like a light weight wheelset is your priority anyway.
re: Good Wheel Decision??sprockets
Feb 17, 2002 11:29 AM
I may be a bit off base here, but I don't and have never understood the fascination with Phil. Granted, hubs are an absolutely critical component of the wheel, but the top hubs of any of the major players should give you long life and day-to-day durability. I don't think you can go wrong with any top hub. Even though I could afford to get Phils, I just went with some new Campy hubs. I don't think the Phil's cost in weight and $ justifies some hypothetical advantage. The rims and spokes will likely need updating before any of the top hubs expire. These top hubs seldom fail. I have a set of Record hubs that came with my 20+ year old, extensively ridden, Peugeot and I still ride those Records, although the Peugeot has recently become #2 in my stable as I don't like to ride in the rain with them.

Secondly, the rim thing. The CXP are not a bad rim from my limited experience, but I have recently been using an even more stout rim, the Velocity Deep-V. They also make-and I am building up-a "Fusion model" that is a bit lighter but still has a nice aero profile-which is more important from a strength point of view than from an aero P-O-V, at least for me. Either rim is more stout than the CXP, and the difference is noticable.

In building up wheels on strong rims-especially those mainly intended for training, I maintain a high spoke count in order to spread the energy absorbance role. If you go with a 36h design, you might want to consider 14/15. Top builders like the way the butted tubes react to forces-more response in the body of the spoke, less at the ends. I have a 32h hardtail MTB that works very well with them, and I weigh nearly what you do. That rear wheel routinely takes more force than a road rim is likely to. Also, you might want to consider a 2x pattern, especially in front. The 2x gives the advantages of "xing" the spokes, but is slightly more laterally resiliant than the 3x. Kind of like approaching the responsiveness of radial lacing, but without the stupidity.

Best Wishes, sounds like a good project.