|Save My Headtube Paint||johnc|
Jan 30, 2002 3:01 PM
|What are you guys using to keep your STI cables from rubbing the paint off your headtube? I've tried clear adhesive stickers and glueless patches. Both of these rub through rather easily. Any suggestions are appreciated.|
Jan 30, 2002 3:55 PM
|Adhesive reflective tape. Made of metal foil. Comes in various colors (black is best IMO) very tough stuff and very reflective indeed. Also good for finishing off bar tape, striping helmets, etc.
In truth it is the grit that gets on the cables rather than the cables themselves that really wear down the paint. A post ride wipedown would do wonders.
Or you can wrap the cables in something soft like a chenile sweater. ; )
Jan 30, 2002 4:18 PM
|Get some clear plastic packing tape or mailing tape (not the cheesy kind--the good stuff, about 3 bucks for a lifetime supply of 3M brand from a stationery store or Target kind of place. Cut out a circle or oval and stick it on the frame where it rubs. I have a piece on my commuter that's been there at least a year, and it's still going strong.|
|re: Save My Headtube Paint||Eric16|
Jan 30, 2002 5:11 PM
|Yet another great use for old tubes! Just cut out a little patch of rubber from an unrepairable tube and wrap it around the cable.
|try crossing your cables||gtx|
Jan 30, 2002 5:13 PM
|you may or may not be able to do this, but on many bikes your can send your rear der cable to the left stop and front der cable to the right stop and cross the cables under the downtube.|
|Just live with it, it will give your bike character.||Barnyard|
Jan 30, 2002 7:06 PM
|re: Save My Headtube Paint||bianchi boy|
Jan 30, 2002 8:44 PM
|I bought a stick-on chain stay guard from my bike shop, and it also included some head-tube cable protectors made of thick, clear plastic with adhesive backing. Works great. Also, if you want something flashy, www.excelsports.com sells some cool Gios head-tube badges that are metal with the Gios logo and adhesive backing.|
|re: Save My Headtube Paint||Frank|
Jan 30, 2002 9:29 PM
|WalMart (where I got mine) or a hobby shop has sheets of felt with adhesive backing for about $1 a 81/2 x 11 sheet.
I cut a piece and wrap it around the cable where it contacts the head tube. Works fine and is not noticable as comes in black or gray to match the color of your cable.
|re: Save My Headtube Paint||davet|
Jan 30, 2002 11:25 PM
|Try a product called 'Ski Saver'. It is a thick Mylar plastic sheet with adhesive on one side. It is used to protect the tops of skis from getting scoured up when your skis cross. It sticks well yet is easily removable. I use it for the same purpose you want it for, and for protecting underneath the bottom bracket, making chain stay protectors and anything else you want to protect on your bike. Try a ski shop or snow board shop to find it.|
Jan 31, 2002 5:33 AM
|One question, does the mylar stick when wraped around a curved surface such as a chainstay? I've used similar products that lifted because they were too stiff. Thanks.
Jan 31, 2002 8:22 AM
|Ed: The Ski Saver mylar doesn't like to go around compound curves, but if you clean the surface of a tight curve (like a chainstay) with alcohol it seems to stick very well and not lift. Sometimes the heat from a hairdryer helps the Ski Saver lay down better.|
Jan 31, 2002 5:15 AM
|is what I use. I have it around already (taping bars and the like). Tough, cheap and mostly waterproof.|
|re: Save My Headtube Paint||Beaver|
Jan 31, 2002 5:39 AM
|Or you could take a tip from the Euro peloton. Put rubber o rings on the cables anywhere they come in contact with the frame. Sure they wear out after 6 months or so and you have to remove the cables to install them, but it's a clean look and you don't have to put tape on the headtube and then deal with the residue when you take the tape off. The wrench at my LBS gets the o rings at a home improvement center. Cheap and very effective.|
|Obviously you're all mechanically challenged...||brider|
Jan 31, 2002 10:47 AM
|or you'd just get inthere and cut the cable and housing so it's a bit shorter, and doesn't generally come in contact with the head tube. A few manufacturers are catching on and putting the cable stops on the head tube (I did this on my custom TiCycles). But my old Barkley had the traditional down tube stops. By making a nice single arc in the cable housing ending right at the cable stop, you avoid most of the problems. It's cleaner, lighter, and shifts better. All those huge, loopy routings I see in the shop are just a sign of lazy mechanics in my book.|| |