Jan 29, 2002 10:58 PM
|Wondering what the specs on the following would be considered, please no arguments, just general answers.
Production: Ordered from a catalog such as Trek, Cannondale, Fuji, etc etc etc..
Custom built: Hand picked components, but normal bike, 2x8/9/10.
Thanks all, just wondering when I weigh my bike how I should feel. I am sort of a weight weenie in the mtn bike department, but dont know what road bike weights should be.
Jan 30, 2002 5:56 AM
|Here's my $0.02. Others may well disagree. These are, of course, very general labelings.
Stock frame/component specs:
light < 18lb < normal < 21lb < heavy
Light frame, hand picked aftermarket parts:
light < 14lb < normal < 18lb < heavy
Some may stab at this hand picked/custom range and say "14lb is a heavy bike because Interbike photos showed bikes on scales reading 10.5lb, 12lb, 14lb etc." Have you ever tried to get an actual, reasonably ridable bike (safety and fit) down to 14lb or 15lb? It's usually harder than you might think unless you fit a dwarf sized frame (or want to sacrifice rear brakes, front derailers, etc.). Just in toying around with some numbers, I'm finding that with my frame, which is a pretty light model and not all that large a size (58cm), replacing almost every component with the absolute lightest on the market would just get the bike somewhere between 14.0lb and 15.0lb.
Hope this helps. You should feel just fine when you weigh your bike, cause it really doesn't matter.
|That's pretty good,||TJeanloz|
Jan 30, 2002 7:28 AM
|Except I think the custom numbers are a tiny bit on the low side. I'd put a normal custom bike in the 17-19lbs range, and light bikes below 17lbs. I'd put light bikes in the 15.5-17lbs range. 17lbs is a pretty light bike. To get below 15.5lbs, you have to do some pretty drastic things- it can be done, but it certainly isn't normally seen.|
|very good estimate||CT1|
Jan 30, 2002 7:32 AM
|I pretty much agree with your estimates.... especially the comment about bikes approaching the 14# range. YES, it can be done but there are sufficient tradeoffs at that point that it's pretty much a useless exercise. My light TCR is just under 16# and it would be difficult to drop another lb let alone 2 lbs from this bike and still have it pothole/century reliable. |
I'd guess that 90% of the high end customs built come in at 17# +- 0.5#.
|Follow Up, more detail||AUH|
Jan 30, 2002 8:54 AM
|I just did some quick spreadsheet work. My bike (with pedals, w/o bottle cages) would total about 14.5lb given the upgrades below. It's 16.7lb right now.
There are lighter options, but generally they would be too drastic (unsafe, expensive, annoying) for me to reasonably consider. Examples include Schmolke carbon bars, Zipp Z3 or ADA wheels, and using a downtube shifter on the left side. All the below items I'd be comfortable paying for and using (but obviously the wheels/tires are a race-day-only thing).
If the THE Stem and C.C. brakes are too unreasonable, add another ~0.2lb for a Ritchey WCS and D/A dual pivots.
Zipp 303 Pair (2002)
S.I. SLR saddle
USE alien carbon SP
ITM THE stem (110mm)
Easton EC-90 bars (42cm)
Continental Competition 19mm Tubulars (x 2)
SRP Dura Ace hardware kit
Cane Creek 200SL brake calipers(pair)
FSA Carbon Pro Road crankset 53/39 (175mm)
This is based on a mix of several sources: my own weighing of my current stuff, manufacture's quoted weights, and user-quoted weights from the "Component Weight list inherited from Damon Rinard." So it's probably a reasonably accurate speculation.
|re: Bike Weight||JimP|
Jan 30, 2002 7:57 AM
|You didn't mention the frame size. Most of the lightweight bikes are small. The larger frame = longer tubes = heaver tubes to compensate for the increased torque.|
|Light - rough guide = 10% of rider's weight. nm||Tony|
Jan 30, 2002 8:39 AM
|So I should be riding a 12lb bike? I think not. nm||theBreeze|
Jan 30, 2002 2:49 PM
|No - you should be eating more....nm||Truth|
Jan 31, 2002 1:19 AM
|If you tie a rope to it, will it keep your boat from drifting?||cory|
Jan 30, 2002 9:14 AM
|Just as an aside, it is possible to worry too much about weight. My Atlantis (64cm, Brooks saddle, stout wheels) is probably at least 25 pounds. But it'll go anywhere, climb anything and bounce off volcanoes. Don't get so caught up in weight that you spend all your time truing wheels and checking the 100gm bars for cracks.|
|Right on, cory!||guido|
Jan 30, 2002 2:06 PM
|A nice stiff bike around 20-25 pounds, motored by a rider weighing 140-200 pounds, will do anything the rider wills it to do, just like the lighter bikes. The heavier bike will handle predictably like an old friend, and reward pedaling input without compromise. It'll be strong enough to handle the abuse of riding, and still be in the stable years from now.
Lightness is desirable only if it's also strong. There's always a point of diminishing returns, beyond which the bike won't be able to work efficiently with the stresses induced by the road and the rider.
|It's easy to get caught in the weight issue||Dutchy|
Jan 30, 2002 4:32 PM
|Unless you race or live in the mountains, a really light bike 7kg/15.4pounds isn't going to make any real
difference to your performance than an average weight bike 8.5kg/18.7pounds. For most of us a light bike is
highly desirable, but in reality it's something we want not need. If you have deep pockets by all means buy a
light bike, I would, but really it isn't worth obsessing over. A guy told me once that he only carried 1 water bottle
on hilly 100km/60mile rides to reduce weight, this is ridiculous! My bike weighs about 9kg/19.8 pounds,
with pedals, speedo and about 11kg/24pounds with 2 water bottles and seat bag. If I was going to
race then I would definitely get a lighter bike, but I'm not interested in racing so I will just ride what I have.
Even with a slightly heavy bike I can still average some pretty good speeds.
Jan 31, 2002 7:39 AM
|What are the best replacements for reducing weight on a bike listed in order of most reduction? I have an off the rack cannondale that I am beginning to race. I would like a list of items I might consider replacing (with component suggestions)over the next year as I start to ride more seriously.|
Jan 31, 2002 10:39 AM
|From my weighings and catalog shopping here is what I have found for my setup.
WHEELS, between wheelset, tires, tubes, I can loose 3.1#'s Of course that would be race day only, but still figure about 2.5# for normal riding. (those arent including light cassette, couldnt find weights on any campy 8 speeds..)
Cranks, with the weight of my old cranks (dont have new ones to know weight yet), I found 1/2# + loss.
I am running late, so when I get home I will post again with the not so big of a deal losses. The two above are the main two to loose weight from, cause its rotational.
|Weight reduction continued||VetteRacer|
Feb 1, 2002 12:06 AM
|As I was saying... Wheels, Cranks are the biggest things to worry about.
Also check your bars and fork, alot of weight can be saved there depending on what you currently have.
Groupo can save some weight, but also be quite expensive.
Goodluck with your upgrades