|Torque wrench (Park TW-2) opinions/advice||Shad|
Jan 11, 2002 1:45 PM
|I would like to purchase a torque wrench in order to adjust my bike's components to spec, rather than just "guesstimating." The Park TW-2 wrench measures from 0 - 50 foot pounds with a 3/8 inch drive. (CO Cyclist $35) Will something like this just work for certain adjustments, but not for others? (I am most interested in setting my bottom bracket, cranks, etc correctly) Does Park sell other superior torque wrenches, or would I be better off with a torque wrench from Sears? |
Thanks for any tips/advice.
|re: Torque wrench (Park TW-2) opinions/advice||TJeanloz|
Jan 11, 2002 2:00 PM
|You'll be better off with a nice torque wrench from Sears than you will with a Park model. That goes for most tools.
Park tools aren't typically the 'best' tools out there, but they are more cycling-specific than others.
|re: Torque wrench (Park TW-2) opinions/advice||Akirasho|
Jan 11, 2002 2:04 PM
|... went with Sears myself.
Remain In Light.
|Any advice on which model/size from Sears is best for cycling?nm||Shad|
Jan 11, 2002 2:23 PM
|Agreed on the Craftsman...||CoraB|
Jan 11, 2002 6:18 PM
|They're more expensive ($69 I think, not including the hex set). |
I recently purchased one and think it's great. Very easy to use and is well within the ranges of torque on the roadbike.
Jan 11, 2002 2:21 PM
|I remember seeing something that said that Park wasn't going to sell one of the modles of it's torque wrench. If I remember correctly (I'm too lazy to verify now) it was the more accurate dial ("clicker") type, but will continue to sell the bar/needle type. Sears sell this type also, but it's reall considered low-end and it's hard to get a very accurate and quick setting due to paralax error and trying to alwasy get your head to where you can actually read the scale. |
You will be much better served getting a nice "clicker" dial type of torque wrench from Sears. It's a Craftsman brand and has the full warranty. It only takes a little bit of use to realize that the el cheapo deflecting needle type is a pain to work with. Much nicer to dial in a setting with the handle then apply force until it clicks. It also has a ratcheting head which makes the tool much more useful. You spend maybe $60 at Sears for a good tool.
|dials are toys||mr_spin|
Jan 11, 2002 2:27 PM
|Not only is the dial type harder to use and harder to read correctly, it can easily get bumped out of calibration. Dial types are toys. Throw them in your kid's toolbox with the hollow plastic hammer.
Get a clicker and discover a true torque wrench. Hell, it's so exciting, you'll want to torque everything in your house.
Jan 11, 2002 4:22 PM
|Bending beam torque wrenches are the most reliable of the various types. They rarely go out of calibration since their are almost no moving parts. They work based on bending a steel rod, the pointer indicates how much the rod is bending. The only fragile part is the pointer. If the pointer gets bent, just bend it back. As long as the pointer is indicating zero when not torquing you are good to go. The drawback to this type of wrench is that they are not the most accurate. They are fine for bicycle use however.
Clicker type torque wrenches are great but are not as reliable since they rely on a spring inside the handle to adjust the torque setting and have several moving parts. Drop it once on the floor and you have to recalibrate. Their is no way to know if the wrench changed. Also, cheep versions of clicker torque wrenches are the least reliable. Snap-on clickers are great, Sears are junk. I make these comments since my work uses torque wrenches extensively and we have a detailed calibration program.
Keep in mind that torque wrenches have an operating range. You can not use the same torque wrench to torque both stem bolts and crank bolts.
Unless someone has the money for a high buck clicker torque wrench, the bending beam type is the way to go.
|Another thing all together...||Geof|
Jan 11, 2002 5:03 PM
|I have yet to find a clicker that goes down to 0 inch pounds. Most bike parts are fractions of a foot pound and if your clicker only goes down to 0 fott pounds they are sort of useless. I use a beam type, but would really like to use a clicker, I'm going to look into snap-on or mac and see if they have a "micro" torque wrench that would be more useful at these tiny torques...|
|Thanks for the advice! I'll head to Sears tomorrow. NM||Shad|
Jan 11, 2002 2:28 PM
|45 minutes & you guys saved me from making a $35 mistake!||Shad|
Jan 11, 2002 2:39 PM
|Just the knowledgeable poster's I wanted to hear from as well. You guys are great! Thanks again. Shad|
|I saved money today in more ways than one!||Frank|
Jan 11, 2002 9:44 PM
|I have a beam type and clicker type torque wrench (clicker was on sale at a parts closeout sale)that I use whenever I am installing bottom brackets or cranks. I was using the click type today installing a new bottom bracket and it seemed like I was cranking pretty hard but no click. I checked the setting and tried again...same thing, no click. I then took the beam torque wrench and found I was well past the torque setting I was trying to achieve. I looked at the clicker type again and found the 3/8" drive part had broken and I was just getting a straight breaker bar effect. Fortunately, no damage but I got in the car and drove straight to Sears and bought a 3/8" click type from them. They were on sale for $59.99 (reg. $69.99) so I saved money there. I also saved by not trashing a bottom bracket or the shell by getting a good quality tool and not a cheap one. By the way, the warranty on the click type Craftsman torque wrench is 1 year, not lifetime.|
|I saved money today in more ways than one!||duh|
Jan 13, 2002 7:03 PM
|you used your beam to check your clicker, it was wrong and then you went out and bought another clicker???|
|Home Depot (NM)||wilier|
Jan 13, 2002 10:34 PM