|Ready to quit!!!||Cully|
Jan 8, 2002 1:11 PM
|I love to get out and excersise on my roadbike but it is killing my main muscle (tingling a hour or more after rides). Have changed everything even as: same seat hieght of seat, angle, bar height ect. as my mountain bike which gives me no discomfort (side by side everything looks the same). What is amiss?|
|Have you tried a saddle with a cutaway? nm||Velocipedio|
Jan 8, 2002 1:32 PM
|Have you tried a saddle with a cutaway? nm||Cully|
Jan 8, 2002 1:42 PM
|I have, and they made my cheeks fall asleep. Seen some in the magazines but the money they want for saddles that may not work? I don't get why the one I'm using for my mtb is not working for my road, I've got it set up where I'm upright just as the mtb. What about the rail adjustable split type, anyone use those with sucess?|
Jan 8, 2002 2:29 PM
|Put the same seat you have on your MTB on your road bike. Voila....|
|Have you tried a saddle with a cutaway? nm||Velocipedio|
Jan 8, 2002 4:13 PM
|The variables are saddle height, saddle angle and saddle fore/aft position. The latter would be affected, I suspect, by the seat-tube angle, which is steeper on your roadie than on your MTB. Moreover, your upper body position on your road bike will be on a somewhat shallower angle [more forward] than your MTB, no? Try a more upright stem on your road bike to approximate your MTB position, or angle the saddle down slightly to compensate for the different angle.|
|different seat tube angles!||guido|
Jan 8, 2002 7:19 PM
|Very interesting. I have two roadbikes, one with 74 degree seat tube, the other 73 degrees. The saddle on 73 is 1.5 cm furthur back, which puts my legs more out front, and takes weight off the groin. My hips are rotated furthur back, resting on the back of the saddle. When I get on my 74, with saddle 1.5 cm furthur forward, my legs are closer in, more vertical over the crank. I have to make a conscious effort to rotate my hips back, to remove pressure on the perineum.|
|I'd say the problem may be...||Ahimsa|
Jan 8, 2002 2:37 PM
|The fact that you are trying to set them both up the same. I can't help but think that they should be unique setups as they are different bike types (MTB vs. Road).
I also noticed you said that you have it set up "just as upright as the MTB" and that is not necessarily what you want on the road. That puts all of your weight toward your backside, and you want it much more evenly distributed than that. You should be more balanced due to the greater amount of time spent on the saddle on a road ride. Upright is fine for that technical unseated MTB trail, but not ideal here.
Lower the stem incrementally and let us know.
Jan 8, 2002 3:18 PM
|The saddle angle can be quite difficult to set to a comfortable position if you don't have a two bolt clamp design that permits very small adjustments. Be sure that the saddle is not set with any upward angle. Set it level or very slightly down.
Check the distance from the saddle tip to the point where your hands rest on the brake hoods and compare it to your MTB. I would be surprised if the reach was the same. The brake hoods on a road bike are positioned several inches in front of the straight portion of the bars, unlike MTB grips. There has to be a lot of extra stem length and top tube length on an MTB to equal the reach to the hoods on a road bike.
A relatively upright position is not necessarily a prescription for comfort. A common check for proper stem length on a road bike is knee to elbow clearance when riding with the hands in the hooked portion of bar and the back positioned relatively flat. If the knees and elbows hit at the top of the pedal stroke, the stem could certainly be longer. Racers almost rarely ride with the knees to elbow interference.
Are you familiar with setting the knee over pedal (KOP) positon? Do you have the KOP adjusted similar to your MTB?
|Koobi was the answer for me||spookyload|
Jan 8, 2002 3:34 PM
|I bought the Koobi saddle, and it worked really well. It is cut out the entire length of the saddle, so you can't sit in the wrong place and miss the cutout. There are a lot of things that could make the same measurements on tape actually different in reality. One thing to consider, is the crank arm the same length? Mtn cranks are usually 175mm, and the road compadre is 170 or 172.5 most of the time. So your pedal could be 1/2 cm different at the bottom of the stroke and at the horizontal on the down stroke. 1/2cm doesn't sound like much, but some people can really notice seat movements like that. Also pedals can create different stack heights. Imagine going from a time mtn pedal to a speedplay road pedal. That would obviously change the effective crank arm length by atleast a cm . Frame geometry can also put your seat in a differnt spot during the pedal stroke. If your road frame is a steep seat tube, and your mtn frame is pretty relaxed, you will end up a lot farther behind the bb, creating a different seat position. Other than a different saddle, I would recommend two things. One, try dropping the nose down a little, that could relieve enough pressure to stop the numbness. Two, take a couple allen wrenches with you on you next ride and make saddle adjustments during the ride. Try nosing the saddle down, shifting it forward and back, raising it and lowering it, but doing it one adjustment at a time, and in small increments. If all else fails, take it to a shop and pay them to fit you properly on the bike. It might not be the same place as your mtn position, but it could fix your impotent, i mean importent promblem. One last thought...if you feel yourself going numb, stand up and stretch your legs, let some blood flow around the package and get some feeling back. Over a long period you numbness will only take longer to go away if you don't adress it.|
|Hey SPOOKYLOAD: Questions on the KOOBI saddle.||nigel|
Jan 8, 2002 5:33 PM
|O Spooky One,
I visited Koobi's site; they've got some really great-looking saddles there. Due to the illustrations of their wares, however, I can't tell whether the saddles are simply recessed or actually cutout (as in "see through"). Please shed some light on this for me. If the saddle is recessed, how deep is the recession? If it's actually cutout (a hole), how far back from the tip (front) of the saddle does the cutout go?
Also, which Koobi do you have, and how long have you had it? I assume that you had too much pressure on your sensitive area down there? Was it a doctor's order/suggestion, or your own idea to get a saddle like this? If you'd rather not discuss this on the forum here, you can email me at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Thanks a heap, chum.
P.S. Is that why you're called "spooky" load? Heh heh, just kidding there, mate.
Jan 8, 2002 6:09 PM
|I bought a Koobi for my road bike because of its shape. It was a little wider in the back than the Flite, and it was perfect. I only had problems with numbness on rides of 4 hours or more, and it did cure that too. I use the Xenon on my Mtn Bike, and the Contour on my road bike. They are the same saddle except for the rails. I went with the different seats on apearance alone. The yellow/black looks great on my litespeed, and the white/black looks good on my Kestrel Ruby weave. The cutout is from the nose to 15cm aft. The cutout is 1.5cm wide to that point. It turns into the 2cm indent from there and is 3.5cm wide where indented. The first ride will seem odd since your nether region isn't supported like in other saddles, but it feels better since that is the sensitive area anyways. Your sit bones will support your weight instead of soft tissue. I tried a standard saddle when I rented a MTB on vacation and got real sore in the first 30 minutes. Koobi has a cool program where if you get it from them direct, and don't like the fit for any reason, you can return it in the first 30 days no questions asked. As for the difference with the rails, they reccomended I not use the titanium rails on my mountain bike, but I used it all last year with many crashes and it is just fine. The first impression I had is that it felt like it was "broken in" already. Like I had been riding it for years. Don't know why, but it must have been the way they have the padding.|
|Thanks for all of the details and measurements.||nigel|
Jan 8, 2002 6:26 PM
'Twas awfully nice of you to get the ruler out and give me the real-deal measurements. Much appreciated, mate.
I take it that, with the cutout the length/width that it is, it's pretty much impossible to put pressure on the perineum?
Top marks. You may've given me just the info I need to make my decision, since I've been considering a new saddle to take some pressure off my tender nether region. I've considered the Selle Italia Trans Am (Prolink), but the Koobi seems to have so much more of a cutout/recessed area.
|Tilt saddle nose up....||O|
Jan 8, 2002 3:38 PM
|This may sound wrong. But, this seems to rotate my hips back, thus putting more weight toward my sit bones. If you look at many pro bikes in the peletonyou will see that there are many riders who do this. good luck|
|That is what worked for me as well.||Tig|
Jan 8, 2002 3:57 PM
|I had similar numbness problems until I tilted the nose UP ever so slightly. The problem has completely gone away. It sounds like this is the wrong solution, but for some people it works.|
|That is what worked for me as well.||GeekRoadie|
Jan 8, 2002 6:25 PM
|Ditto. Tilting just a hair up keeps from wiggling towards the front of the saddle and putting more pressure in the wrong places.
Fiddle with it in a trainer if you can. If not, just ride around the block plenty of times with a 5 and 6 wrench to adjust accordingly. Be sure to try all riding positions, too.. Tops, drops, hoods..
|That is what worked for me as well.||guido|
Jan 8, 2002 8:44 PM
|I worked in a bike shop for several years. Every guy who had problems also had his saddle lowered in front. Most of them thought I was crazy. "Tilt the saddle UP in front? But that's where it hurts!" Some tilted their saddles down even more, went through one saddle after another, but never connected the dots.
You want gravity to bring your butt down onto the wide part of the saddle in back. You should feel comfortably balanced fore-aft when sitting straight up with your hands off the handlebars.
|My experience also||JS|
Jan 9, 2002 8:05 AM
|I went through saddle discomfort and mistakingly believed that nose down would help, it didn't. I gradually began tillting the nose up after talking with other riders and my problems were solved.|
|re: Ready to quit!!!||Cully|
Jan 8, 2002 4:29 PM
|Thanks for all the replys, will try all the suggestions before I give up. Would hate to get rid of this bike.|
|re: Emulate the set up of the Mountain Bike./ Shorts..||jrm|
Jan 9, 2002 8:50 AM
|As close as you can without depleting the effeicency of the road bike. Also though about how maybe your shorts are comtributing? wadded up chamois will create pressure and cut circulation. I foudn this with cheaper shorts. Then once i dropped the dunkits on some pricy pearls the pressure was relieved and ciculation was restored.|
|re: Ready to quit!!!||Tim|
Jan 9, 2002 11:06 PM
|Regarding cut-away saddles (I am not certain that is the source of your problem), you might want to look a "Koobi" saddle (koobi.com). They are less expensive and are the split rail type. Very comfortable. Tim|| |