|New Cycle Help?? Cannondale R700? R900?||Drezahl|
Jan 2, 2002 8:33 AM
This is my first post here. I'm new to road cycling having spent most of my time on a mtn. I'm looking at a first purchase to get me started and keep me going. I've been considering either of the above. Does anyone have any +/- feedback or are there other models that I should look into? I'm not going to be a full time rider. I'll be lucky to get in two rides a week at 30mi+/-. TIA.
|re: New Cycle Help?? Cannondale R700? R900?||morrison|
Jan 2, 2002 10:39 AM
|I have an R900. It's a great ride; very nimble, and stiff. While it is extremely light, it also can feel like you're riding a skateboard across a gravel path. As you probably know, aluminum transmits vibration very efficiently. This translates into a bumpy ride that can, on a long ride, sap you of your enthusiasm. For 30 mile rides, though, you should be fine.|
|re: New Cycle Help?? Cannondale R700? R900?||pa rider|
Jan 2, 2002 10:44 AM
|If the bike fits and you don't mind spending the money for the aluminin caad 5 frame it worth to buy the cannondale R700. I have 2001 R600 and put 7K miles on it last year.
The Coda hubs and brakes are not worth anything. The sealed cartridge bearings drag on the wheels and you have to put chain lube to grease it. You'll need to rebuild the wheels because the spokes broke after 500 miles. I usually buy bikes and upgrade the spokes on wheels because factory wheel building machines don't lace correct round tension on all the spokes.
I wished I could have wait and got a Jamis bike instead (Had a car accident and the bike shop helping with the claim only sold Cannondale and the check was only good for 30 days). I liked the Cannondale frame and figured when I wear the parts out I would upgrade, so this bike was ok for me.
If you don't ride much and not sure what kind of riding you may want to do in future (road riding recreation or touring) the Jamis fit the bill (has eye dropouts on rear stay for rack).
The best cost ratio for groupo is shimano 105 bikes. Raleigh is a less expensive bike with this 105/ultegra groupo and alot better than the Cannondale.
If you have alot of bikes that fit you then you can be choose a bike that gives you the better groupo for your money. I found the Cannondale is lighter and not so harsh as the old 1999 and later models. Steel is heavier, but rides more comfortly (21 to 23lb for $1000 - $1500 bike size 56 to 60cm).
I got Kzirium wheels for my Cannondale and took 2.5 lbs off the bike because the Coda wheels are heavy (28 spoke wheel).
|pa rider I have a question for you||RaiderMike|
Jan 2, 2002 2:41 PM
|Does your R600 have the Coda crank on it? I found a new Coda expert crank for $35, and was wondering how they work.|
|I am not pa rider but...||John-d|
Jan 3, 2002 1:30 AM
|I have a 2001 R800 with a CAAD 4 frame and I swapped the 105 crank set for the Coda crank. It works very well with the 105 changer. Why did I swap it? I found that with the 105 crank my heels kept hitting the chain stays. The Coda is just a touch wider that gives me clearance. Obviously it is the way I ride but it works for me. And the black chainset looks just great on the white frame.
To answer the main post above - As regards the above comments on the Coda brakes and hubs, I have found them both to operate very well and the whole set up gives a superb ride over any distance. After 60 miles on the Cannondale I am ready for more, with my old steel bike I was always ready for a long rest. The CAAD 4 frame is very smoooth even on the bumpy roads that used to slow down my steel bike this one just seems to float along.
The R900 will ride better than the R700 due to the lighter equipment and wheels. Buy the best you can afford.
|I am not pa rider but...||pa rider|
Jan 3, 2002 3:25 AM
|This message is for John D. When your Coda hubs bearing go replace them with a high quality bearing. We have a bearing warehouse in Hershey Pa that only cost $10 for the bearings. I asked my Cannondale LBS about their bearings and it cost the same. It's about $10 to $15 to replace them.
My friend locked his MTB Coda expert on our 500 mile tour last summer and all we did was kept putting lube on the bearings. I put grease on my rear wheel bearing, after taking the cassette off the drive side once, and put lube on the non drive side bearing every 3 weeks to allow the bearings spin smoother.
I'm keeping these wheels as my spring training wheels and will probably throw the rear one out after the bearings go. Two bike shops in my area use to sell Cannondale said that these are not the best hubs at that price.
My point to the guys question was Cannondales are great bike frames with Coda junk parts. Expect to upgrade some of the Coda parts once you get some serious miles on the bike.
The 2002 Cannondale CAAD5 frame is a lot better now than 2001 CAAD4. You get a record headset that is in an over size headtube (similiar to the old KLein MTB) that saves weight and are better than the Canecreek headsets that Cannondale put on their bikes.
I felt the Cannondale bike rode quick than the 1999 Bianchi I had in 2000.
|Thanks for the info on bearings...nm||John-d|
Jan 3, 2002 5:31 AM
Jan 3, 2002 8:57 AM
|pa rider I have a question for you||pa rider|
Jan 3, 2002 3:08 AM
|Yes the Expert Coda cranks are worth it. I was told they're just as good as the 105 triple cranks. John d comment mention about it being wider. I'm upgrading the chainrings to Ultegra. No need to replace crank and bottom bracket. I notice the black wears off the chainring only. The cranks seems easier to clean and polish than any shimano cranks I ever owned.|
Jan 3, 2002 8:56 AM
|Thanks for all the info.. One more ?||Drezahl|
Jan 3, 2002 7:03 AM
|I appreciate all of the insight you folks have to share. It is certainly helpful to get the input from users rather than dealers. Should I also be looking at other brands, ie. Trek, Klein, Le Monde, etc. I've just happened to frequent two shops which carry and pronounce Cannondale to be a great bike. Any other thoughts? Thanks again.