Dec 20, 2001 11:31 AM
|Does anyone have advise on removing pedals that are stuck. Can't get the old Looks off with the 15mm wrench, they seem to be stuck. Any tricks that might help.|
|re: Pedal removal||allervite|
Dec 20, 2001 12:05 PM
|Are you going the right direction? If you are sure you are, then try some Liquid Wrench. Really let it soak in. If that does not work, you can try heat; but be careful, you can ruin both crank and pedal.|
|Turn the left one the other way...||cory|
Dec 20, 2001 12:11 PM
|But you know that already, right? After all these years, I still have to remind myself to do it, though.
Other ideas, none guaranteed: Get a stout wrench, like a big open-end (instead of a stamped pedal wrench) and put a piece of pipe over the end for leverage. Something about 4 feet long will either remove the pedal, break the wrench or snap the crankarm (reminder: Left is reverse-threaded).
Drip some penetrating oil or WD-40 all around the threads and let it work overnight, giving the pedal spindle an occasional few taps with a hammer. In the morning, crank on it.
Gently heat the crankarm around the pedal hole with a heat gun or a LIGHT application of a torch. I've never seen this help, but it's in the books.
And, of course, before you put the new pedals in, grease the threads.
|'francais basique' for french pedals:||Rusty McNasty|
Dec 20, 2001 12:33 PM
|Look at the wrench flats of the spindles. The one marked "G" (for gauche) is LEFT-THREADED. You turn it clockwise to loosen.
i sacre bleu!!
|re: Pedal removal||Crankist|
Dec 20, 2001 2:19 PM
|Some spindles have allen wrench access thru the inside of the crank as well as the 15mm normal flats; try it with both wrenches. |
|Hindsight is always 20/20||coonass|
Dec 20, 2001 4:41 PM
|Not meaning to be a smart@ss, but this is a common result when joining disimilar metals....buy some Permatex 'Anti-seizing lubricant' (available at all Auto Supply stores, even Walmart)for your next installation and forget the problem. (Ti or S.S axles, or seatposts really bond [cold-weld] to steel or aluminum) If it is as difficult as you say, I'd take it to a REPUTABLE bike mechanic before you either strip the crank-threads or warp the equipment with the heat...heating can't be good for the strength of the crank.|
|re: Pedal removal||KStone|
Dec 21, 2001 4:03 AM
|Most pedal removal problems are from lack of torque. In a work stand the force applied can be transfered to the BB, frame, seatpost, etc...a bad thing. Try this. it works for me, and the forces are not transfered to anything expensive.
Put the bike on the floor and lean it against the wall. Place a 6-8 inch piece of 2x4 under the PEDAL to be removed. Put a wrench on the flats and hammer away in the correct direction. This works for tightening also.
|got them off||key|
Dec 21, 2001 8:50 AM
|thanks for the input, what worked like a charm was taking a piece of pipe about 12-18 inches long and putting it over the 15mm wrench to get more torque. Came right off! Thanks for the help and ideas.|| |