|Question on mounting pannier racks on road bike||Starliner|
Dec 4, 2001 9:23 AM
|Has anyone attached pannier racks to a road bike that has no braze-on eyelets on the stays or the steel fork? If so, what kind of mounting hardware did you use, and where did you get it?|
|Hose clamps get the job done but are ugly.||MB1|
Dec 4, 2001 9:29 AM
|More to the point, if your bike does not have braze-ons it may not have enough clearance for panniers. Short chainstays often force your heels into the panniers.
Would a BOB trailer or the like work for you?
|They make vinyl-coated clamps for that.||cory|
Dec 4, 2001 9:32 AM
|They're really cheap, a buck or two apiece, and purists sneer at them, but they work and they're the only solution i can think of if you don't have eyelets. They're shaped sort of like a C with lips, with bolt holes in the lips. You slip them over the stays, then bolt the rack to them. They come in three or four sizes for forks, stays & bridges, and if you don't find an exact fit (or want to protect the paint), you can take a turn of two of handlebar or other tape underneath them.
A "pro" bike shop may not have them (the ones around here don't), but family kinds of shops do. Nashbar used to carry them, too.
|If the LBS doesn't have them||Straightblock|
Dec 4, 2001 9:50 AM
|look at local electrical or hydraulic supply shops. They carry them in a variety of sizes.|
|re: Question on mounting pannier racks on road bike||guido|
Dec 4, 2001 11:45 AM
|Does your bike have rear dropouts that have a triangular hole in them? If so, you can use a nut and bolt to hold the strut onto the rear dropout. The nut is a hard plastic-like disc that fits snug in the triangular opening of the dropout, and theoretically doesn't scratch the paint off the frame. The bolt is an allen bolt.
Those clamps shown above are good for attaching the rack struts to the chainstays below the seatpost, but won't work on the dropouts.
If you've got short chainstays, like on a racing bike, hanging panniers may not be practical. As the previous poster said, your heels will hit the panniers. But you still can carry a trunk pack, or bungee cord packages to the rack.
|re: Question on mounting pannier racks on road bike||Starliner|
Dec 4, 2001 12:01 PM
|Bike is an early 90's Schwinn Paramount. Sounds like the short chainstays might be a problem in the rear. What do you all think of the racks that clamp on to the seatpost? Wouldn't they be long enough to provide heel clearance with panniers?
Bags would be for holding papers, clothing & lunch for a 15 mile 1-way commute, most likely below the 20-25 lb. limit for the clamp-on racks.
|re: seatpost racks||guido|
Dec 4, 2001 12:50 PM
|Will a large trunk rack hold clothes, lunch and all your papers? Excuse me for dropping names, but Neil Pierce, the urban planner, used to ride with his briefcase bungee corded to the rear rack on his Raleigh. Could you get everything in a briefcase?
I commute 5 miles with the same items in a big backpack, the other alternative, but 15 miles with one might get a little heavy and sweaty.
|re: seatpost racks||guido|
Dec 4, 2001 1:08 PM
|This isn't my day. Too much happening for me to concentrate! Those racks that attach to the seatpost may not be able to hold papers, lunch and a set of street clothes, but I'm not the authority. I've always gone with racks over the rear axle, a more direct way of laying weight on the bike, less likely to flex, wobble or break. Another poster might have some input on this issue.|
|real world experience||personne|
Dec 4, 2001 5:13 PM
|Have toured in Swiss/Italian Alps on a Specialized Allez Epic (carbon with alloy fork). Used Blackburn lowrider (F) and MTN (R) racks held on with clamps top and bottom. No problems with slippage/breakage/flex, etc. Used 1300ci front panniers and very small front panniers on the rear as not much capacity required. Weight of luggage was ~15-20 lbs total.
1. Panniers on front are less disruptive to both handling and aerodynamics, especially compared to big/heavy rear bags with flexy/short stays.
2. Make sure that the clamps are tight!!!
3. Use a four-point fixing rear rack; single stays attaching to the brake bolt tend to break, inconveniently locking the rear wheel...
4. Use tape under clamps to avoid scratching frame/fork.
|real world experience||Bernie|
Dec 4, 2001 5:20 PM
|I turned an old cannondale into a touring bike. But since it had over sized tubes, those traditional clamps were not big enought to fit around the tube. I fixed this by going to the hardware store and getting clips used to hang pipes. Then I wrapped my frame with electical tape and bent the clips around the frame and put a bolt though the holes on the clip. This may take some time and patience and fooling around with amount of electrical tape and clip size in order to get a good snug fit.|
|re: Question on mounting pannier racks on road bike||Andy M-S|
Dec 4, 2001 7:15 PM
|An alternative you may want to consider is a Carradice bag with an SQR mount. I'm waiting on shipment of one now--with a capacity of 24 liters, it should do the job! No need for a rack at all, if you can fit one of these to your bike.
Check 'em out under "Carradice" at www.wallbike.com.
|re: carradice saddlebags||guido|
Dec 5, 2001 12:50 PM
|Rivendell has those bags, too. Grant even explains that although your legs may hit a big bag hung under the saddle, it isn't a big deal. Go figure.|| |