RoadBikeReview.com's Forum Archives - General
newbie buying bike, need help(8 posts)
|newbie buying bike, need help||lilgeerts72|
Nov 27, 2001 10:17 PM
|i'm looking at trek and cannondale bikes, under $1000. everyone i talk to tells me a different story on the bikes. mainly i want frame quality so i can upgrade later instead of buying a whole new bike. any opinions or facts will help my decision before i buy. thanks.|
|re: newbie buying bike, need help||kushogun|
Nov 27, 2001 10:31 PM
|Sounds like you are looking for a long lasting frame in order to be a quality platform to build for the future. In that case I would seriously reconsider the Cannondale and perhaps even Trek ideas. C-dale and Treks under $1000 would of course be in the Aluminum range. Aluminum while a quality and popular choice for frame material still has a mystic factor of fatigue life. I have heard estimates anywhere from 5-8 years for an aluminum frame. I dunno, I ride a C-dale and love it, but I also plan on purchasing a new ride several years from now versus being a longer term project. I would seriously consider going with a frame using Reynolds or Columbus steel tubing. Steel is time tested, sexy, and gives a unique ride that aluminum, carbon, titanium, scandium, and all the other alloys are still yet to mirror. Just my two cents. I love Trek and C-dale but also look outside the box a little bit. Landshark, used Waterford, Reynolds 853! Test ride everything! Happy riding! Please remember I am not an expert on this, just been through the buying experience several times and the above info has seemed to become somewhat of a consensus on message boards and cycling shops.|
|Lemond is coming in a bit cheaper this year.||Leisure|
Nov 28, 2001 2:01 AM
|They also make frames predominantly out of Reynolds 853 which is the default high-grade steel for bikes. It's a decent bang-for-the-buck frame. You could probably get one equipped with newbie-level Shimano for not too far over a grand. Another one that I would recommend a bit more but will also cost a bit extra at your price-point would be Gunnar. That is a great frame for the money, but you won't get the same equipment-spec discount that you would on the Lemond.
If you want this to be the only road frame you get for a long time, you're entering the hobby for enjoyment, and you're unfamiliar with the feel of all the materials, I suggest steel is a good way to go. It tends to ride less harshly than aluminum, and even though it may not seem like much of a difference when you're first starting out, that little bit could be the difference between riding through the next several seasons or parking it in the garage after the first. I think the feel of aluminum (along with the mildly lower weight) tends to have more appeal to those more specifically performance-driven (racers and such) to where the harder ride becomes an aesthetic asset. If that just happens to fit your bill then go for it. However, Kushogun's comments regarding fatigue in aluminum is also something to take into account.
|my 14 yr old c'dale and I disagree||DAC|
Nov 28, 2001 5:00 AM
|In fact, I know probably a dozen people who have c'dales over 10 years old!
seriously, though, you aren't gonna find a decent c'dale road bike with good components for under $1000, at least not around here.
|Planning to "upgrade"?||pmf1|
Nov 28, 2001 5:52 AM
|"Upgrading later" is the most expensive way to get the bike you want. Unless you buy really low end stuff, or really ride a lot of miles, the components will not wear out quickly. So, in a few years when you upgrade, you'll be throwing out functional components to be replaced with newer components. Plus, you'll probably be paying someone to do it for you. Better to pay a bit extra now to get the components you want rather than buying them later at higher prices and paying someone to install them. |
I have no idea what Trek and Cannondale offer for $1000. I still remember my Cannondale 3.0 frame most unfondly. Check out gvhbikes.com for bikes in your price range with components you want. Most frames for sale these days are well built and will last for years.
|check this out||pmf1|
Nov 28, 2001 5:58 AM
I'd take either of these bikes over whatever Trek or Cannondale offers for the same price. I've never dealt with Gary Hobbes, but many people here have and were pleased with what they got. For a few hundred bucks more, you can have an Italian steel bike with a Look fork, Ultegra components, good wheels and a cool paint job. Trek/Cdale couldn't touch this for the price.
|Consider "previously owned"||Elefantino|
Nov 28, 2001 6:56 AM
|Used but not abused bikes and components are plentiful, if you know what to look for and where to look.
For example, I recently purchased:
A Specialized S-Works M4 on eBay, practically brand new, no scratches or signs of wear, full Ultegra STI 9-speed group, Profile BSC carbon fork, Thompson Setback seapost, Selle Flite Ti saddle. Total cost, including shipping: $900. (The bike was purchased new in July. It came without wheels, so...)
A set of new, never ridden Rolf Vector Wheels, also on eBay. Still in the original packaging. Total coast, including shipping, $140.
A three-month-old set of Rolf Vector Comp wheels. Sold to me by a wrench at the LBS; they have no signs of wear at all. Total cost: $200.
I'm probably going to use the Comps for my recently-repaired OCLV (I had a bit of a crash last July) and use the Vectors for the S-Works. So, that means I got the S-Works for $1,040, ready to ride.
With the Dura-Ace group, the S-Works retailed for $3,300. I've got Ultegra ... and saved $2,260.
You can certainly purchase a decent bike for $1,000, but it will just be decent. There will be upgrades you want to make as you get more and more familiar with the road and the sport.
Why not start out with a bike that's closer to the one you want, instead of one you have to settle for?
|is your wife home already?||jaybird|
Nov 28, 2001 8:22 AM
|I thought she wasnt getting home until tonight? why is the M4 for sale already?|| |