|mb position||hinaults dog|
Nov 13, 2001 5:59 AM
|just got a mountain bike to spin about on,
and would like some help on position.
do you,as far as possible try to replicate your
road bike position, or as i have read elsewhere
ride a slightly lower saddle height etc.
|re: mb position||Patricia|
Nov 13, 2001 8:34 AM
|I am not an expert on positions but I do ride a slightly lower saddle height on my mountain bike, especially when I ride technical ground..
If ever your knees start hurting, then you'll know your position is wrong...so take your saddle a little higher.
It may take a little time to adjust...but trust your impressions - you want to be more supple when mountain biking.
Make sure though your knees and feet are positioned the same way as regards the pedals..(sorry for the clumsy english!).
One day, I go road biking and the next mountain biking...without any problems...So enjoy yourself..
|I have the seats where I like them||vanzutas|
Nov 13, 2001 9:18 AM
|I have ridden both for a long time. I do not compare the two when I set the bikes up, the seats move to their comfy positions over a short adjustment period. I actually measured them after I read some article about a racer who says his seats are within millimeters of eachother. I found that without measurement, just doing it by feel my two saddles are within a mm of each other. I do a lot of technical terrain and never had a problem.
What I have found is that the muscle just below my butt get sore quickly if the saddle is too low and the back of my knees hurt when the saddle is too high. The muscle being sore is not permanent so If I had a choice between hyper extending the tendons in my knees 80 times a minute or using my butt muscle too much I would definately go with the butt muscle.
|re: mb position vs road ...||breck|
Nov 13, 2001 10:59 AM
|Mtb lower for single track, fire road, descents and climbs. |
In the beginning we would stop and lower the mtb saddle using the set post QR; raise after being on the flats again. On descents mtb you typically clear the saddle only having your thighs for balance adjustments. At some point went to a Control Tech Ti fixed seat binder bolt on the saddle same as the road bike, so prob run the mtb saddle a tad lower.
On the road bike you simply "unload the saddle" for pave descent and sit on saddle when not standing flats and climbing, so may position road for max flat land use with the fixed binder bolt. If it slides down a tad, tightly wrap a few turns of electrical tape at the margin of the seat post right at the seat tube.
Mtb saddles typically have cut-off rear sides such as the Selle San Marco Bontrager run on the Klein MTB with the stiff longish Syncros Hardcore 425mm post (7075-T78 alum) due to the sloping top tube Vs the Selle Max Flite saddle for the OCLV horizontal top tube road with the Syncros Ti 225mm post (3Al-2.5V) as prefer the less stiffness for road.
If you are riding around town does not matter either way, ditto saddle, etc.
|Try to leave saddle height alone.||Leisure|
Nov 14, 2001 1:35 AM
|For good pedaling efficiency and mechanics you should leave the saddle in the same basic position. In freeride stuff (big jumps, megatechnical and steep) lowering the seat becomes a must, but that's probably not what you're looking at doing just yet, and as already mentioned you'll still raise the seat back as soon as you start pedaling again. When you're first starting out a lower seat tends to help your general sense of stability particularly on descents, so it can definitely be useful for a while. As your balance and technique improve you'll realize you can ride pretty much any XC trail without lowering your seat.
More important is the H-bar distance and height, which is closer in and higher. It takes the weight off of your arms for downhill impacts lowering your chances of endoing, and it gives you more room to maneuver around in the cockpit for technical areas. Being able to stand up and move your whole body to the rear of the bike largely negates the need/desire to lower the seat on most trails.
Relative to the hand position on your road bike, I suggest moving say, five inches closer and about level to your seat just to start out. Try adjustments in different directions and feel it out for a bit. If your style grows towards XC racing you'll likely prefer farther out and lower to more closely mimic the pedaling efficiency of road biking. If you grow to like swooping technical downhills you'll want the H-bar closer in and possibly higher.
Realize that while you can adjust ride length by getting shorter or longer stems, changing stem length has more of an influence on perceived handling character on mountainbikes than it does on roadbikes. I like to ride technical XC. I prefer relaxed, switch on a dime handling so I opt for long stems. At the same time I like compact cockpits so I can move way back when I really need to, so I choose compact frames with short top tubes. You may or may not have the option of going back and switching around your frame, but at the very least your LBS should be willing to let you trade for different stem lengths. And don't forget to try moving the seat forward or back if there are still things you want to fine tune.
|true but,||Jack S|
Nov 14, 2001 12:53 PM
|mtn bike cranks are often a little longer, necessitating a slightly lower saddle position|| |