Nov 11, 2001 12:09 PM
|Currently I am using a Dura Ace cassette 12 to 21. During my last two group rides I should have realized that I need a bigger cog, maybe 23 or 25. The 12 to 21 has the 18 gear. The rest of combinations do not have it. I love the 18 gear. So, I am thinking about getting another cassette 12 to 25. Then, I will use the 23 and 25 cogs and to add them along with my current 12 to 21 cassette. Will take away the 12 and 14 gears. So, I should have 13, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 21, 23, and 25. I am deciding should I get the other cassette Dura Ace too or Ultegra? Ultegra is cheaper though.|
|Ultegra is cheaper and a little heavier, but just as good||spookyload|
Nov 11, 2001 12:20 PM
|Unless you are a gram counter, I would go with the ultegra. I personally like the brighter finish on the Ultegra anyways. You will not notice any shifting differences between the two.|
|Ultegra is cheaper and a little heavier, but just as good||VictorChan|
Nov 11, 2001 12:37 PM
|Thanks. Given that I would use the 18 gear from the Dura Ace cassette, I don't think the combination would "look" good with a mixture of Dura Ace and Ulegra cog set. :-)
Looks like is gonna be Dura Ace. Is too bad my LBS does not carry any Dura Ace cassette. I really want to support my LBS but they just don't carry "any" Dura Ace components other than what are already installed on their current highend road bikes. :-(
|re: Cassette modications.||KStone|
Nov 11, 2001 2:35 PM
|the larger cogs of a 9 spd are rivoted to a spider and cannot be "mixed and matched".
Here's what you can do to save that 18 though.
Take apart an old 8 spd cassette for the 23 (or25)cog. Remove the 9 spd. cass. from the wheel. You'll need a cassette tool and chain whip to do this. Put the 23 tooth 8 spd cog on the freewheel and then a 9spd spacer. Put the spider assy. back on. Leave off the 1st loose 9 spd cog, install the remaining cogs, and install and tighten the fixing nut with the cassette tool.
You now have your 18 and 23 tooth cogs at no cost! The only trade off is the bigger jump between cogs in the middle where the cog was removed.
I have done this and actually ride a bike set up this way. KStone
|re: Cassette modications.||VictorChan|
Nov 11, 2001 2:44 PM
|I just checked my setup. 18, 19, and 21 are a set.|
|re: Cassette modications.||badabill|
Nov 11, 2001 7:12 PM
|The rivots may be removed and the cassette built with any gear combo you like. Check out Sheldon Browns site for more info.|
Nov 12, 2001 12:14 PM
|Thanks badabill, if you had actaully tried (9spd) cassette modification you would understand what S.B. is talking about.
The swapping of cogs, as I've explained, is something I've done many times...not just read about somewhere. Sheldon Brown sells a special Shim 9spd cassette for climbing with a 27T bail out cog. It's simply built as I have described and is sold at a premium price. This is great for those who care not to DIY, are mechanically challenged, or enjoy spending money.
LBS make money selling new parts (cassettes, etc.).
|well he still needs 13t||cyclopathic|
Nov 12, 2001 1:08 PM
|and 13t lockring to build his 13-23 or 13-25 cass
I would just get HG70 in 13-23 (which has 14t and 18t) or if he needs 25 bail out 13-25.
on 13-25 he would need to drop 14t then swap 19 and 21 for 18,19,21.
HG70 13-23 is the best material for "custom" cass I have used it to build 13-27 century cass with 16t. Between 12-27 and 13-23 you can build pretty much anything 12-21 12-23 etc
|he still needs 13t?-Why||KStone|
Nov 12, 2001 4:49 PM
|Why would you need a 13 when you only leave out the 17, the biggest loose cog? The original 13 is still in the stack.
Any and all other responses involve BUYING something. Why? If you need an occasional lower gear why not just substitute the 17 with the 23 as I have explained above?
If you want the 18 and the either a 23 or 25, what other way is there without buying a cassette($50+/-).
|re: Cassette modications.||DINOSAUR|
Nov 11, 2001 5:05 PM
|As previousy mentioned you can't mis-match the cogs. If you do a fair amount of climbing a 12-25 is nice to have. With a 12-25 the lowest gears are 21 23 25. If you go to a 25 your will lose the 18 and end up with an 19, only a one tooth difference. I recently went from a 12-25 to a 12-27, and ended up with a 21 24 27. The 23 was my favorite gear for climbing. I learned to love the 24 and I'm not afraid to use the 27. Actually to my amazement, by going to a 27 my climbing improved. I also went the other way and went from an Ultegra to a Dura Ace. The Dura Ace seems smoother and doesn't make drive train noise the way my Ultegra did, however it's hard to compare as my Ultegra had 15K miles (yes 15K). You might like that 19 gear. I think perhaps this is why Campy has an edge with their 10 speeds, as their gear ratios are closer together. Then again, I used 5 speed cogs for decades and never had a problem. I think maybe we are spoiled with the sti's. With the old 5 speeds you made sure you were in the right gear when you started a climb as it took a little finese to change gears while in the middle of a climb. You could also keep the 12-23 and just change cassetes when you go on club rides in the hills. That way you could have the best of both worlds...|
|And then there's||Kerry Irons|
Nov 11, 2001 5:54 PM
|a standard Campy 9 13-23 cassette: 13,14,15,16,17,18,19,21,23|
|obviously Ti? nm||cyclopathic|
Nov 12, 2001 1:10 PM