|why fixed gear for winter???||dupe|
Nov 8, 2001 6:15 AM
|i hear and see it pop up that a lot of riders go fixed gear for winter to improve their spin. why just for winter?
excuse my ignorance.
also can i keep my double crank chainring and use a chain tensioner like a singleator and make a two gear? exactly like having a rear-derailleur taking up the chain slack but with no shifting movement. if i keep my front derailleur then i can have a two gear. 42 x 16 and 52 x 16. am i really wrong on this one?
Nov 8, 2001 6:25 AM
|1) Nice and easy to clean/maintain - fewer fiddly moving parts to gum up with rust and salt etc.
2) Gives you something different to do for a bit of variety - get your spinning up to speed and smoothness.
Why just winter? Reverse of top 2, plus doesn't generally give you the leg strength of pushing high gears, unless you do a lot of hills. Plus they are generally slower, so you cover less miles for you time, and get less variety of terrain and gradient, as they are less flexible (depends where you live/ride of course)
On the gearing, you can use a double and a singlulator with a single, but not a fixed. For a fixed, you would need one of the beefier fixed tensioners - this was the subject of a post about a month back on the components board - have a search. Reason is that the singulator "folds" against the backpressure on a fixed, as it is sprung - the fixed tensioner doesn't, but you need to adjust it when you change rings at the front (e.g. at bottom of hills etc).
|cool thanks ...now i have a project to work on.......||dupe|
Nov 8, 2001 7:25 AM
|it all started as i was looking for a cheapo set of wheels for winter. i only have tubies and didnt really want to spring for or try to find a set of 700 x 25 tubulars for slippery season that are worth riding on. so a hunting for cheap clincher wheels i go.
the best reasonable rims out there mavic cxp-23 at excel sports @ $9.95 each. crazy huh. but they come in 28h only. not to worry i say - i ride 32's ill just build them strong.
but as i ride a campy pattern- forget about a cheap pair of hubs - record only for 28h. so in some strange brainstorm i remembered that suzue make a basic high-flange track hub for $60 a set. threaded either side too. might have to get a longer axle and space for 130mm but should look ok.
then i can rest my ergo levers and brakes and rear derailleur and bar and stem. get myself a cheapie bmx brake that will fit and a bmx lever to sit on the top/centre of some priest style bars. scrounge around for a non-syncro bar-end shifter for the front derailleur. bmx freewheel and a singleator and im set. (????)
then im ready for the worst of what winter will bring. slightly easier handling in the fred position. two speeds in case i need to motor or climb long ascents. wheels that if they last a winter i'll be happy. sure i wont be ble to stop. but i dont plan on going too fast in the slippry stuff anyway. wont be wearing shoes with cleats. am looking for more of a commute/errand bike. and if i plan on fixed i figure i can dump the chaintensioner, flip around the wheel to the fixed side and 52 x 17 my way around central park without too many drama's or obstacles.
if anyone can see flaws in my logic (easy now) pls let me know before i embark on something really stupid. forced to sell off excess bikes and have the one ride. dont want to trash it. but would like to ride as much as the weather permits. i understand ill need some special attention for frame, headset and bb.
so im looking at $200 to $250 if i scrounge well. i could buy a set of campy clincher wheels for this sort of money i know. but im worried about trash most of my components. i am determined to ride as much of a winter as i can coz im from australia and have never had a chance to do this. i am looking forward to it.
all advice even if damning will be appreciated.
oh. and the colnago is still for sale if anyone is interested.
Nov 8, 2001 8:37 AM
|Run by me again what you are planning to with the gearing - ratios and fixed/single?
Have you got horizontal drop-outs - if not, you will need to gear accordingly - there is a site that has some handy ring/sprocket sizes v. length ratios that tells you what you need for the chain length you have got - let me know if you need it and I'll try to find the link.
Anyway - I think you'll enjoy it - they are strangely addictive, you really don't miss the gears most of the time at all, you get into a different mind set when you are out on one. I use mine on a fairly flat commute (sometimes I go the hilly way for fun) and it's ideal. The other bonus is that with less junk hanging off the frame, you can use a real classic old lugged steel frame and a rugged wheelset, and still come in at under 20lbs fairly easily, which though not crucial at all, is a bonus in my book.
Nov 9, 2001 5:52 AM
|My lbs just GAVE me a storck road frame that was for
display purposes. I has no bosses of any kind so I thought I would make it a fixed gear. This bike does not have horizontal dropouts so my rear wheel will be is a fixed position. The frame also has no rd hanger so the sigleator is also out of the question. My chain must be perfect. Ho do I determine what i need to make this work. Thanks
Nov 9, 2001 12:21 PM
Nov 8, 2001 8:58 AM
|A fixed gear gives you a little bit more of a workout, especially if the terrain is not fully flat. When it's cold out, it's nicer to do a more intense ride (then again, I'd jump for a full day ride in freezing temperatures under a blue sky). |
As far as gearing goes, I have a flip-flop hub on mine, but I've only used the freewheel side once on a slow ride with my sister. I think part of the fun is the fact that you really have no choice - you have one gear and that's it. I picked my gearing based on my usual cruising speed (just over 30kmph) and an rpm just over 90 at that speed. That worked out to 42x16.
As always, www.sheldonbrown.com has all the answers.