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Bad case of numb nads.(20 posts)

Bad case of numb nads.huntzdux
Oct 30, 2001 4:15 PM
I am fairly new to cycling, and have a severe problem w/ my package going numb after only about an hour or so.I am looking for any suggestions to help cure this ailment. I have tried quite a few saddles, and the one I am using now has a cutout, and gel on the sit bone area, and it is the most comfortable one I have found. Should I try changing my saddle angle?(Flat now) Shorts too padded? Not padded enough?(Sugoi chamois) Looser or tighter shorts? Any advice, or suggestions will be greatly appreciated, and tried. HELP

Thanx, and be safe
re: doesn't address problem, butcyclopathic
Oct 30, 2001 4:37 PM
I try to stand up every few minutes helps to get blood circulation back

try to poing saddle a bit down might help good luck
what's numb?filtersweep
Oct 30, 2001 4:41 PM
- could be cold weather if you are biking around here

-could be your shorts are too tight (if it truly is your package)

if you are talking about your "sit bone area" you are probably talking about a nerve. does the rest of your bike fit (I'm assuming you aren't having to reach for the pedals with your feet) ?

how long does it take to go numb? (and what specifically is going numb)? I personally think the cut-outs and gel are marketing tools- all saddles seem to start feeling the same after a loooooong ride (what I mean is that just changing to a different saddle seems to make a night/day difference in comfort that lasts, oh, about an hour- kinda like switching shampoo or conditioner!
Saddles are not like shampoo!look271
Oct 30, 2001 5:02 PM
They are very individualistic, one that is good for one is not so good for another. I agree with the cutout; marketing hype, I suspect. However, if you find the right saddle for you, you'll never use anything else. It took me the better part of 6 years 'till I found the perfect fit for me, a Sellitalia Pro-link. No numbness, even after 100+ miles. I'd try the pointing down tip. If that doesn't work, try other saddles. See if you can try some at your lbs. You CAN ride without numbness!
disagreeWoof the dog
Oct 30, 2001 6:39 PM
Cutout saddles are not a marketing hype. I had a stupid kevlar specialized saddle that didn't have a cutout. I'd go numb on long rides. I changed to Specialized body geometry - the really racy model. It is the one that works for me because of the cutout. Its not just the cutout behind, its the triangular groove that moves in about halfway through the saddle, and it makes things right down there! How's that a marketing hype?

Woofy woof woof.
If the saddle fits......look271
Oct 30, 2001 6:41 PM
Ride it! :-0
Tilt!!!!Kerry Irons
Oct 30, 2001 4:48 PM
While all this is highly personal, you obviously are putting weight on the nerves and/or blood vessels supplying the area. Your weight should be on the "sit bones" that are a couple of inches to the rear from the danger zone. It could be that your saddle is too soft, allowing the weight to be spread away from the sit bones and to thereby apply pressure where you don't want it. All that said, try setting the nose of the saddle ever so slightly lower than where you have it now. As a reference, the normal range of saddle adjustment goes from "flat" (nose of the saddle even with the butt) to "level" (nose of the saddle level with the ground). This range has different meaning with different saddles, since some have a prominent butt, and some have no difference betweent he nose and the butt. However, saddle tilt is part of fit, so try some different positions and see if that helps. Also, there is nothing wrong with pedaling a few strokes out of the saddle every mile or so to keep things from ever going numb in the first place. Whenever I feel the slightest tinge of numbness anywhere (hands, crotch, feet, etc.) I stand up, coast, pedal out of the saddle, do on-bike stretches, change hand positions, etc. It's part of riding the bike - you don't just sit in the same position all day long.
Oct 30, 2001 5:44 PM
Another thing I found very useful it to turn the nose of your saddle a 1/4" or so, left or right. This allows you to adjust your package and "dress" left or right. I like to do century rides and a Terry Liberator saddle works best for me.
IMHO, Terry Liberator when all else failsLeisure
Oct 30, 2001 11:02 PM
I rode one for a season and can't imagine anyone getting numb on one of those things. Might be a tad heavy and unsightly depending on your needs, so you may want to look at lighter/lower-profile options first. The Liberator feels funny at first, some of which is breaking-in the saddle, the rest of which you get used to quickly. Absolutely no marketing hype about that, even though I've switched to the lower profile Terry Fly which has also worked really well for me. The Selle Italia Trans-Am seems to get the most consistent praise among all the performance-minded anatomical saddles I've seen. That doesn't mean it "Must necessarily be The One" for you, it just increases the chances that it will work for your individual anatomy/morphology so take a look. Although I suggest thoroughly looking around for a good saddle that fits you regardless, it's only part of the solution. All the advice here regarding seat adjustments should be tried for the sake of getting a better and better fit. Why take chances on the family gems? Anyway, this topic comes up a lot on this page, so there are a lot of other good ideas in other discussions you should read through as well.
Oct 31, 2001 4:06 AM
I finally settled on an EndZone saddle, the one with the cheek bones gell and the slot down the middle with ventilation hole. After years of numbing discomfort, bliss at last. You just have to keep trying them out. I suspect that the make is not so important as saddle type. The slots and wings are not hype, they work.

The most important thig is as stated above get the tilt and offset right. It really does make all the difference. The good thing is that after each miniscule adjustment you have to get out in the air and ride.

Good luck - The answer is out there somewhere.
What's the safest bet?I Love Shimano
Oct 30, 2001 5:46 PM
We can't test saddles ehre, so what do you think is the best saddle? I want to change my Trimatic because I ALWAYS get numb (the whole package). Since I don't have enough cash to frequently switch saddles, I need to know whch one out there is the safest "no numb" saddle.

I guessing it's the Flite. Will the Gel Flite be better?
No such thingKerry Irons
Oct 30, 2001 6:07 PM
It's like asking "What shoes will fit me best?" Saddles are highly personal, and you can't tell what will work for you by hearing what works for someone else. Sorry, but it's an immutable law. The only general guideline is that the more you ride, the firmer you will like your saddle.
What's the safest bet? -- there isn't one....maximum15
Oct 31, 2001 9:46 AM
Can't say which -- you got to try them. I tried three different "flite" saddles. One didn't work at all. One only works on the mtn bike. And the other is the best thing since sliced bread on the road bike (for me but not necessarily you). My wife loves the one I couldn't stand and hates the one I love.
For what it's worth ...tarwheel
Nov 1, 2001 5:34 AM
I had numbness with a SI Trimatic, but no problems whatsoever since I switched to a SI TransAm Max. Not sure if it's the cutout or the greater width, but I have never had even the slightest bit of numbness with the TA Max. I bought the saddle after reading all of the saddle reviews here, and although saddles are definitely an individual fit item, the TA Max consistently seemed to get the best reviews.

Aside from that, I would recommend buying a saddle from a shop/catalogue that allows exchanges and has a good stock of different brands. Performance is good about allowing exchanges, and I believe ExcelSports is as well. The main thing is to ride the saddle enough so you can tell if it really works, but not so much that it shows some wear and can't be returned.

If you like a cushier saddle than the Selle Italias, I also have a Selle Royal gel saddle that is very comfortable and has caused no numbness problems. It does not have a cutout, but a deep groove down the center. It has fairly thick gel padding. Only cost $35 new at REI.
How about seat height vs. handlebars?Cartman
Oct 30, 2001 6:25 PM
If there is too much drop from the seat height to the handlebar height, you may find yourself leaning too far over, thus putting too much pressure "down there". My seat height is just above the handlebar, and I have had no problems.
Just the opposite for medzrider
Oct 31, 2001 6:03 AM
Riding with the handlebars close to seat level puts me in an upright position with less weight on my hands and more on my bottom. The first key to getting comfortable on the bike was learning to get weight off the seat by dropping the bars. The next one was tipping the seat up a tiny bit to keep from sliding forward. The last was getting a San Marco Concor saddle and I've used them since 1983.
Hey numb nuts...LC
Oct 30, 2001 6:39 PM
You have to stand every once in a while to keep the blood flow going. Start standing before you even start to feel anything.
Oct 31, 2001 12:22 AM
I'm surprised....Lone Gunman
Oct 31, 2001 7:11 AM
No mention of Brooks saddles. Yes they are heavy. Yes they look old fashion in a cool sort of way. Wall bike .com offers a {{{6,6,6 month, month, month}}} trial period and you can return for refund. Riding them level or slightly above has worked for me after riding the Terry Fly and various other gel and/or foam seats. I am yet to see a better trial offer than that.
2nd the Brooks...UncleMoe
Oct 31, 2001 9:31 AM
Not perfect cause it has its drawbacks (avoid getting it wet, a little heavier at ~500 grams). But the most comfortable saddle I've ever owned.

I tried many and stopped looking after I found the Brooks B17...from