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haiku bike shop quandary: hanging the bikes, rafter spacing(20 posts)
|haiku bike shop quandary: hanging the bikes, rafter spacing||Js Haiku Shop|
Oct 30, 2001 6:15 AM
|the haiku bike shop measures approximately 24' by 12'. it's a fully walled third garage with (1) a separate lifting garage door and (2) a walk-through door to the rest of the garage. (like a big room, just with two doors and a slab floor).
rafters in the ceiling run across the width, not the depth, meaning left to right across the 12' section. they're spaced, i think, 18" on center.
what i've found is that i can either hang bikes along the side wall, one every 18" on hooks drilled into the rafters, or hang them across the width of the shop (12'), alternating up/down or front/rear every 8-10" on the same rafter. including space for the lift door in the front, and the future workbench in the rear, i'll have about 10' of depth along the [long] wall to hang the bikes (one every 18"). neither is desirable, and i'm out of room already.
can i take a 2x4 piece of lumber that's about 10' long and run it lentghwise along the 24' section of the room, affix it to the ceiling using longish screws every 18", then put ceiling hooks into the 2x4 with whatever spacing i choose?
is this clear as mud, do i need to make a drawing?
|I nailed a 2X4 to the rafters with hooks 14" apart. Works fine.||MB1|
Oct 30, 2001 6:21 AM
|Hang the bikes alternating front/rear. If you have the room hang the bikes a little further apart.|
|go 4 the 2x4's||Dog|
Oct 30, 2001 6:21 AM
|Good plan. BTW, you don't have to put the hooks on the wheel centers exactly. There is quite a bit of freedom to put them +/- several inches.
|, rafter spacing||Birddog|
Oct 30, 2001 6:37 AM
|Yup, Clear as Mud!
You can do as others have said and affix 2x4 to ceiling joist, however, they are more than likely either on 16" or 24" centers, 18" is very unusual. I would use a lag bolts and washers (around 3/8" x 3 1/2" or 4"), not screws to anchor the 2X4 to the joist. The total thickness of your 2x4 and drywall will be at least 2" and another 1 1/2" or 2" will bite into the joist. To determine the center of the joist either spring for a "stud finder" (about $10 to $12) or use a finish nail to find the exact center of the joist. Hammer the nail in until you find either side of the Joist and then figure center. It is not unusual for joist spacing to wander somewhat so check each placement.
|yep, done this..||dotkaye|
Oct 30, 2001 11:40 AM
|used 2x4's and some serious lag bolts (5" x 3/8") to hang the 2x4's from the rafters. First screwed the hooks into the 2x4's so I could get the wheelbases right, then put them up. Don't use screws, I don't think they'll be strong enough. Been hanging 5 bikes this way including a 40lb Schwinn for 6 years, haven't lost one yet..
I've also hung a couple of canoes the same way, using the 2x4's as attachments for pulleys. One of the canoes weighs about 65lbs.
Yes, I've run out of room in the garage ceiling, can't buy any more bikes.. dang.
|now, i'm just planning to use ONE 2x4, and one-wheel hang...||Js Haiku Shop|
Oct 30, 2001 11:54 AM
|so all the bikes are hanging by their rear wheels, alternating the way they face so the handlebars are front/back/front/back, allowing the ceiling hooks to be that much closer.
and...i'm talking about 7 bikes...
one mtb (25-30 lb)
two road (20-25 lb ea)
two project bikes (25-30 lb ea)
space for two more, down the road (18-25 lb ea)
the cruisers (2) would go either mounted on a wall-fixture or elsewhere from the ceiling. they weigh a little more than the others, and are much more cumbersome.
DOES ANYONE see problems hanging these 7 together on the same 2x4 affixed to the ceiling in joists with lag bolts?
Oct 30, 2001 1:01 PM
|Are the bikes going to hang from hooks drilled vertically into the wood, or are the hooks going in horizontally?
If you do the hooks horizontally (as if you were putting them into a wall), you may want to reinforce them with a strip of metal or wood attached to the board directly underneath the hook. Once weighted, the hooks will want to pull down "through" the wood, and you'll end up with an oblong hole and a slanting hook over time.
Oct 30, 2001 2:30 PM
|Works fine - my advice is to use the really robust screws that are about 3" long and drill their own holes. Look for the ones with torx heads - they run around $6 per pound, but you won't need tha many. That way you can add/remove them easily and not strip out the phillips style heads with the chordless drill when working overhead. I use two boards and space them apart the distance equal to the average wheel base of the bikes (44"?). Set the hook spacing such that you alternate the direction of the bikes and don't quite have the handle bars hitting. You can face all the bike the same way and then use the empty hooks for hanging spare wheels in between the bikes. Recently I changed my set up and put one board across the back wall and then hang each bike from just one hook on the rear wheel. this takes up a lot less room in the working area of your shop and it puts and end to smacking your head on a hanging bike (it's easier than you think). Put the hooks in at a 45 degree agle so it biscets the arc of the wheel. Contrary to popular rumors you don't mess up your rims.|
|thanks, question...||Js Haiku Shop|
Oct 30, 2001 2:43 PM
|"Recently I changed my set up and put one board across the back wall and then hang each bike from just one hook on the rear wheel. this takes up a lot less room in the working area of your shop and it puts and end to smacking your head on a hanging bike (it's easier than you think).
provided you're talking about still having the hooks affixed to a board affixed to the ceiling,...
"Put the hooks in at a 45 degree agle so it biscets the arc of the wheel. Contrary to popular rumors you don't mess up your rims."
i'm not 100% on the 45degree thing...please clarify. i think it's the bisecting the arc of the wheel thing that lost me. remember, i'm a computer geek, not an engineer. :o)
Oct 30, 2001 4:02 PM
|No, I went from a double board setup screwed into the joists (24" OC) to one board (two eight footers for a 16' long board) screwed into the wall studs (16" OC). So with the 2x4 screwed horzontilay into the wall the hook projects and the tire bottoms out against the inside of the siding (no insulation or drywall) - the natural angle foe the hook is downward at about a 45 degree angle if you line up the forces. Maybe a little diagram would help (note the hook needs to be twisted 90 degrees to hold the rim): |
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|understood. what's the benefit of wall mt vs ceiling mt? nm||Js Haiku Shop|
Oct 31, 2001 6:03 AM
Oct 31, 2001 9:47 AM
|You put the bikes into a veritcal orientation against a wall where they take up less projected floor space than hung horizontally from the joists. A real factor if you want to get the most out of your space. The area under the bikes is basically "dead" yet you don't really want to store stuff here for access reasons. Also the fasteners are in sheer vice tension which is more secure, but moot if you use enough of them. Finally it's a lot harder to smack your head with them against the wall since you won't be tempted to work beneath them and it's easier to to store/remove. the wall method doesn't lend itself to storing bikes as closely together unless you take the front wheel off of every other bike so the bars don't hit. |
Had the ceiling setup for many years before I hit upon the wall mount.
|I was a little puzzled too||Mel Erickson|
Oct 31, 2001 2:46 PM
|but now I see you were referring to hanging bikes from the ceiling by both wheels or the top tube, horizontally. I was always thinking only of hanging the bikes from the ceiling vertically, by one wheel. Perhaps others were thinking this way too? You could hang them from the wall or from the ceiling by one wheel, almost the same thing. You can alternate hanging them by the front and back wheels so the handlebars don't clash or alternate hanging them with the handlebars near the wall and away from the wall so they don't clash. I always prefer the first method because it seems easier to grab the bike by the bars and seat whichever orientation they end up. I also park them diagonally to gain a little extra space for the car door.|
|Question on Ceiling||Brooks|
Oct 30, 2001 3:33 PM
|What I'm not clear on is whether there is drywall attached to the rafters or is it open? If it is open, forget all the discussion on lag bolts, etc., just get the 2x4 on top of the rafters (assuming it is not a scissor truss and rafters are horizontal). A couple of long nails or screws will hold the 2x4 in place with the hangers spaced however you like. Just make sure the garage door won't hit the bikes when opened! Doh!|
|Question on Ceiling||grzy|
Oct 30, 2001 4:04 PM
|Going on top of the rafters is fine since the bikes are no longer hanging from the screws, but the spacing can mess up you layout. In any event the load from the bikes is small and the long screws are rated for way more - you can get sagging of the board if you don't use enough screws.|
|it's a finished room. full walls, ceiling. no exposed frame. nm||Js Haiku Shop|
Oct 31, 2001 6:04 AM
|Dig a basement! :)||mr_spin|
Oct 30, 2001 4:24 PM
|don'cha mean wine cellar? fallout shelter more appropriate. nm||Js Haiku Shop|
Oct 31, 2001 6:07 AM
|re: haiku bike shop quandary: hanging the bikes, rafter spacing||Mel Erickson|
Oct 31, 2001 6:47 AM
|I hang mine from the rafters directly, no 2x4. The 2x4 with lag screws would give you more spacing options. I also angle my bikes as if they are in diagonal parking spaces. This takes up a little more room along the length of the wall but gives me more room width wise. If you hang them on the long wall you might consider angling them as your space is only 12' wide (width challenged?).|
|thanks, all!!! will report when it's been constructed...nm||Js Haiku Shop|
Nov 1, 2001 10:37 AM