RoadBikeReview.com's Forum Archives - General


Archive Home >> General(1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 )


Rear dropouts(9 posts)

Rear dropoutsWillieRider
Oct 12, 2001 9:15 AM
I'm very curious about the rear dropouts of Road bikes. I currently own an older 80's Cannondale roadie and I remember that I had broken the rear drop out on my Cannondale mountain bike. I am aware that road bikes do not sustain as much stress, but I would like to know if there are any problems with my road bike if it does not have a replaceable rear drop out. A pic to show you what year it was from. I'm currently upgrading and may consider selling it because its a bit big for my size.

Any help would be appreciated,
William
re: Rear dropoutsWillieRider
Oct 12, 2001 9:17 AM
pic didn't work the first time.
re: Rear dropoutsDAC
Oct 12, 2001 9:57 AM
FWIW, My old Cannonwhale touring bike is fom around the same vintage, maybe a bit newer, and the dropouts (probably made by c'dale) are as thick as boilerplates. Since your dropouts look about the same, I wouldn't be too worried if they are as thick as mine are. My dropouts do have a second threaded hole, though.
Let me ask you: are the seat stays ovalised like mine? It looks like the frame is a 25", like I ride, and your chainstays look similar, but shorter than mine.
Ditto, and a question to WillieRiderTig
Oct 12, 2001 10:22 AM
I had a similar C-dale frame and it was solid at the dropouts. I wouldn't worry about it.

Question, and please don't take this as an attack: Are you comfortable with the seat pointing down so much? Also, the same question about the bars pointing down/twisted forward. Maybe this is just an old picture. The reason I ask is because most riders that have a saddle at this nose down angle find themselves having to constantly push their butts back on the saddle since this makes you slide forward. You might want to try putting the saddle at a more level position and see how it feels. It will help reduce the weight on your hands and arms. This level position may cause you to lower the seat stem just a little. As for the bars, this position makes the brake hoods hard to reach. You may want to play with the angle a little. Just some advice from an old rider/former shop mechanic.
You sure you want to be known as "WillieRider?"9WorCP
Oct 12, 2001 10:05 AM
To each his own. I think a replacable derailler hanger is only truly necessary if you are in danger of bending it. Are you a crit racer? Do you really push your bike in corners? Otherwise not a big concern.
not so sure. The derailleur hanger on my Vitus 992 brokedzrider
Oct 12, 2001 10:56 AM
and the price of replacing it was high enough to make a new frame the practical solution.
re: Rear dropoutsRich Clark
Oct 12, 2001 12:24 PM
I always understood that replaceable derailleur hangers became common on aluminum frames because when the dropout got bent, bending it back would weaken it dangerously, unlike steel.

If you haven't bent it by now, why start worrying at this late date?

On the other hand, a frame not fitting right is definitely a reason to replace it, regardless of other factors. On a road bike, Fit is All.

RichC
Not a problem.vanzutas
Oct 12, 2001 1:16 PM
A couple of things. There is a difference between a drop out and a deraliur hanger. A dropout holds the wheel on and is at the end of the seat/chainstays. the derailur hanger is on the dropout and hangs the derailur. I just didn't want to use the words interchangeably. I own an 80's C'Dale road bike and never had a problem with the hange bending, (I even crashed it a few times and got hit twice by cars). On mountain bikes they bend all the time. hangers can be straightened. but aluminum has a very low fatigue strength so it may not be able to be bent too many times. maybe once or twice though. Road bikers don't bend hangers much. So don't worry about it. if it bends try to bend it back. it just might work. If not, buy a new frame then.

Adam
Adendumgrzy
Oct 12, 2001 2:04 PM
I'm on my third C'dale MTB and have yet to damage the dropouts - even the old style "cantilever design". I've always carried a spare replacable hanger, but never needed to use it. Oh, I crash....lots. I've got a small collection of tweaked and twisted rear der. The only time I had a problem with a rear hanger was on my OCLV after a hellacious crash - it was aluminum, but they just unbonded it and replaced it, not that this is an option for an all aluminum frame. I guess my point is that you don't need to worry about the hanger/dropout feature. Chances are very slim that you'll really have a problem and if you do getting a replacement C'dale frame is very cheap. This is the beauty of aluminum - dirt cheap to make. If you're the original owner you may be able to take advantage of their frame exchange program.

Like previous posters said - you're better off spending more time getting the fit right.