|New to road riding||wernma|
Oct 9, 2001 7:38 PM
|I would like to purchase my first road bike. I have been mountain biking for last 8 years and would like to purchase a road bike. I would like some opinions on road bikes. I currently ride Santa Cruz Mountan Bikes and would like to know how ther road bike would be for a first bike. I want to keep the prce range around $2000. All suggestions will be very helpful. Thank you for your help.|
|re: New to road riding||keyser soze|
Oct 10, 2001 3:59 AM
|Check the review section for opinions - and ride as many bikes as you can to see what feels right before making a decision. For $2000 you can buy a lot of bike - maybe more than you need at this point. You might want to consider spending less, or buying a used bike, to start out to see if you really like road riding first. You can always upgrade later.
|I agree...look at reviews in Bicycling Mag too nm||jagiger|
Oct 10, 2001 5:04 AM
|Just a Comment||DCP|
Oct 10, 2001 5:17 AM
|Probably the single most frustrating piece of advice I received when I was in your shoes was "buy what feels right." When new to a sport (and road is quite different from MTB), its just plain hard to tell how something is supposed to feel. Road riding inherently involves long periods of time with few changes in riding position. This is why bike fit is so important.
I suggest getting competent fit advice (you can pay to be fitted, rely on a good bike shop, or educate yourself) and try to find a bike you can borrow or test ride for long periods so that you can tell what it all means.
After 10 months of road riding, and knowing what I know now, I would buy a bike with a shorter top tube and different wheels.
If it sounds like a tramatic experience to decide what to buy, it is, but it is well worth it. Good luck.
|Just a Comment||jkh|
Oct 10, 2001 3:01 PM
|I agreed with you totally. I have just recently started road cycling after years of MTBiking. It takes time to build up the "feel".
For $2000, there are a lot of choices. You may want to check out the Schwinn Fastback from surpergo, if you are ok with compact frame. For $1400, you get full Ultegra compoenents.
Oct 10, 2001 6:28 AM
|You have a great budget for a new road bike, but you could waste it if you do not know what you want.
Although controversial, I am one of those who truely believe that the old saying "the way to get a good price on components is to buy them attached to a frame" DOES NOT apply to mid/high end bikes. When it comes to mid/high end bikes (+1800) you waste money by getting production bikes at the lbs. (PLEASE OTHERS: WE have debated this too much, don't flame me now, the dabate comes through every week, wait and bash my thoughts them :-))
So this is my advise...if you were buying an entry level bike, I would tell you to go to your LBS and have them fit you on a trek/cdale/specialized/lemond, or any other production bike. HOWEVER since you are buying a mid end bike I would do the following:
1. get a good fit. go to a local bike shop that has a fit pro. Tell them you want to get a road bike fit. Pay them.
2. get familiar with your numebers.. what type c-c or c-t size you need. What size for top tube and stem, what size for your stand over clearance.
3. Ask them how much will they charge to put a bike together. (if more than 150 go somewhere else)
a. get a frame and a bike kit from a place like GVHbikes.com (he will put it together for free)
b. Get a mid end frame from a place like supergo (1200 for the carbon Kestrel Talon, 800 for the Scattante Airplane (same materials as the pros for 1/3 the price), etc.
Then get a dura ace kit (GVHbikes.com is great for this too)
Take it to the local bikeshop and have them build it.
YOU WILL HAVE a mid/high end frame with full dura ace for $2000. I have not seen a production bike with these features for that price.
Welcome to the world of the roadies
|Why not build it yourself||vanzutas|
Oct 10, 2001 7:28 AM
|I don't really understand why putting a bike together is such a big deal on this board. I always hear suggestions to have the shop build it. The only thing I would have my shop do is press in the headset races. I think if you buy a frame online they will usually do that for you.
To assemble a bike you need a bottom bracket tool ($10), good cable cutters ($22), Allen wrenches ($5-20), Good grease ($15), and maybe a pedal wrench ($19)
Maybe someone can think of more but I think you may already own some of these tools. the total comes out to around $80 and now you own some sweet tools to when you need to change your cables next time it is no problem.
So I say save some money and bulid it yourself.
|oops, I forgot the chain tool..nm||vanzutas|
Oct 10, 2001 7:42 AM
Oct 10, 2001 10:01 AM
|I'm trying (key word) to convert an old 12-speed into a fixed gear. Didn't you post recently that you did this for $40? I could use a little help now and then. How do you feel about being a virtual tutor? Could I email you some questions?
I already have most of the bike taken apart. Just need a little guidance in getting it back together.
|I am flattered...of course I will||vanzutas|
Oct 10, 2001 10:06 AM
|just email me.|
|Just tried to email you||Spinchick|
Oct 10, 2001 10:33 AM
|but was reprimanded by the MailerDaemon! Any ideas?|
|yeah that was my fault...||vanzutas|
Oct 10, 2001 10:52 AM
|yeah I was not logged in and the email I typed was off by one letter. try using this post|
|I assumed he did not know how...ETHICS!||nestorl|
Oct 10, 2001 10:13 AM
|and if that is the case he risks:
destroying teh crank set.
Destroying the frame if bb case threads are not chased
Never geting good shifting
etc etc etc..not to mention a few safety stuff...
I build my own frames but it would be irresponsible of me to tell beginer to read a book and build his own
|Agreed..I left out the risks involved.||vanzutas|
Oct 10, 2001 10:39 AM
|I completely agree with you about the risks of building it yourself.
In this particular case the original poster said they have been mountain biking for 8 years. mountain bikes require a lot of maintainance. if some of it was done by the rider I think they can probably build a bike.
Anyway, I agree not everyone can build a bike but I think far too many people are afraid to do it.
Oct 10, 2001 7:35 AM
|While I agree 100% with that scheme, it's probably not the best bet in this case (or in a lot of cases). From the bike shop end, this sort of deal can be very smooth, or very frustrating. We used to have women from the Saturn team do just this- be measured, send their measurements off, return with a frame and kit and have us build it. That worked perfectly for everybody involved. But for somebody not intimately familiar with road bikes, it was typically a lot harder.
Wrong front derailluer, typically it was a clamp-on with the wrong size non-removable clamp. Or worse, it was a mountain bike and it was the wrong pull/swing combo.
Incompatable parts. They bought a 1" stem and have a 1 1/8" fork. Or they bought a stem with an internal bolt and a fork with a carbon steerer. Another favorite is an Italian bottom bracket for an English frame- the customer always wants to trade, but an Italian BB is practically worthless these days.
Wrong size. A miscommunication in how the numbers work, I know you advised to "get familiar with the numbers" but different bike manufacturers do things a little differently- beyond c-c and c-t.
I totally agree that pricy production bikes are probably not worth the effort. We frequently sold Trek 5500's as a frame and then built it up with Dura-Ace for $500 less than the whole bike price. But for somebody new to road riding, I would have to recommend buying the complete package from the same person, be it GVH or a LBS. It will be a little bit more expensive, but, in my opinion, well worth it.
|Italian BB worthless?||Another Courier|
Oct 10, 2001 8:38 AM
|Don't Colnago, Derosa, et al use Ital BB? Why worthless?|
|Italian BB worthless?||TJeanloz|
Oct 10, 2001 9:16 AM
|Yes, a handful of Italian builders use the Italian BB spec. But many, including Bianchi, use English. But in terms of volumes of bikes, a very few specialty retailers sell a lot of Colnagos and Derosas- most of us use English bottom brackets 90% of the time. So what most bike shops do is keep one italian BB in stock (as opposed to many English ones) in select models.
But this also causes the problem of the unknowing consumer who goes to buy a bottom bracket at Excel, is told that they only have Italian, buys that, and tries to trade it at his LBS, which already has an Italian BB, and doesn't want or need another. This becomes a real problem with Campy, who almost always produce the italian BB's before the English ones, so there's often a shortage of Campy English BB's and a glut of italian ones. It happened when Campy first offered 10speed record- most distributers initially offered it as a group, and only with an Italian BB. We still have 5 Record BB's around from those first groupsets.
|Just because||Mel Erickson|
Oct 10, 2001 7:52 AM
|you have a budget of $2000 doesn't mean you should spend that much for your first road ride. You may decide you don't like it or you may find you don't do it enough to justify the bike. You may find you don't like the ride of aluminum/steel/titanium/fiber/? and want to go a different direction. You may decide to switch from Shimano to Campy components or vice versa. What is certain is that what you prefer will change as you gain experience and experience is the best guide. In any case you can get a fine ride for significantly less than $2000. My advice would be to get a frame of high enough quality that upgrading components is worth it. There are many out there. You generally get a better deal on a complete bike in the $1200-$1500 range. Decide what kind of riding you will do and how many miles you think you'll put on, say, in a year. If you intend to race or not and if so what kind of racing (crits and longer point to point races are totally different animals). Do you want a more comfortable ride or a more responsive ride? Are you small and light (i.e. more of a climber type) or compact and strong (sprinter type) or something else? These can all affect the type of bike you choose. I recommend a good fitting by someone who is experienced. You can pay a bike shop for this and it is money well spent. Get all the dimensions, top tube, seat tube, stem, angles etc. that define the bike you need to fit you well and shop around. Don't accept or be pressured into buying a bike that doesn't come pretty close to the dimensions you need (some adjustment can be made, especially with the stem). There are good buys on 2001 models available now and I haven't seen any "gotta have" changes for 2002. Don't obsess about brand. Once you know what fits that will dictate what you buy more than the brand. Some manufacturers simply don't make a bike that will fit you well while others will. Have fun. I just recently bought a new MTB (Giant XTC NRS 1) and it was almost as much fun researching, trying out, looking for the best price, etc. as the riding has been (almost).|
|Nestorl - I've done the maths?||Dutchy|
Oct 10, 2001 8:50 PM
|"YOU WILL HAVE a mid/high end frame with full dura ace for $2000. I have not seen a production bike with these features for that price."
Nestorl you are correct on you're post, but you forgot to add wheels, seat, handle bars and pedals.
I guess this will add ~$500? to the price.
|THE KIT COMES WITH ALL OF THAT||nestorl|
Oct 11, 2001 3:22 AM
|That is why it is a bike kit not a group. the Dura ace kit comes with all dura ace including the DA hubs and mavic rims. Cheers. nestor|
|Thankyou for the clarification, I was not aware of that (nm)||Dutchy|
Oct 11, 2001 4:11 PM