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1st road bike(8 posts)

1st road biketedr
Sep 24, 2001 5:50 PM
I am looking my first road bike after years of mountain biking - just something to get me through the winter - i found a left over 2001 trek 1000 for $550.00 - my question is this a good deal - i dont plan on doing any racing just some local spinning - the bike dosent need to have the best components just reliable - also i am about 5ft 11in what size should i be looking at as this is a leftover and dont want to be talked into something i dont know alot about
Thanks
It's OKRich Clark
Sep 24, 2001 7:05 PM
It's not overpriced, it's not a huge bargain, it's a decent price. It was a $600 bike when it came out a year ago. If it's a good shop that you trust and has a good reputation for support and service after the sale, then the price is fine.

You probably want a 56cm frame, possibly a 58. Now, this doesn't mean the bike will be a good fit. It just means it probably won't be if it's not around that size. But road bike fitting is more than just standover height, and without knowing your inseam, arm length, and other measurements, nobody could even guess as to whether a particular bike will fit.

That's one of the major things that separates a good shop from a bad one: their willingness and ability to properly fit a road bike (and their unwillingness to sell you a bike that doesn't fit you). Different manufacturers' frames have different geometry, and of three different ones of the same "size" you could find one or none that fits you, depending on your body proportions and riding style.

The Trek 1000 is a perfectly OK entry-level road bike, but it would be unfair not to warn you that if you get hooked on road riding you will want to upgrade, and since the 1000 comes with the Sora 8-speed group (Shimano's only 8-speed road group), upgrading the drivetrain becomes something of an expensive proposition. Personally, since every other Shimano drivetrain is 9-speed, I'd consider the cheapest bike with a 9-speed group (the Tiagra group) to be the real "entry level." In Trek's line, that would be the 1200, which is about $200 more.

RichC
Rich is rightElefantino
Sep 24, 2001 7:22 PM
If you have the extra money, I'd go for the Tiagra bike. Not only does it have the 9-speed group (which, upon close inspection is a lot beefier than the Sora and will last longer), it has Trek's super light alu tubing that is found its more expensive bikes.
FYI, my son is 5-11, long torso, and rides a 58. But to each her/his own. That only comes from experience — or, in your case, picking a good bike shop. Listen to the bike shop employee — but, more importantly, listen to yourself. If you find that you're being educated as you purchase, you're in a good shop. If you find yourself confused, you're just another sale. Go elsewhere.
re: 1st road bikeMVN
Sep 24, 2001 8:16 PM
For what it's worth, I bought a Trek 1000 a month ago for $599.00. The owner threw in two flat-protection tires and a saddle, plus upgraded my computer (no extra charge for the model up) when I decided I didn't like the first one I got. Plus he's given me deals on other accessories since the bike purchase. The prices are going down but I don't think the dealers have much room to deal on entry-level bikes. I'm 5'10" and weigh 210. I bought a 54 cm and it's really comfortable. Definitely get them to swap saddles for you and test ride it for more than a few minutes (I rode mine for 30 minutes and discovered things I wanted to adjust and change). I don't race, just got it for training and I like the components. Shifting is fine and I've had no major problems with it although I've only been able to put about 150 miles on it so far. Good luck with your purchase.
mine wasnt bad...ChrisVedral
Sep 25, 2001 1:57 AM
i got my trek 1000 at the beginning of summer and as of now ive put about 1800 miles on it and no problems wiht components or anything, im just waiting for my trek 2200 to come in the mail in about a week now.
Sounds okay but I second the warning on SoraMick
Sep 25, 2001 5:33 AM
If you're just looking for something to bang around on, then the 1000 is perfectly suited. As to frame size, Trek's run a little longer in the top tube then European bikes like Bianchi. So, if you have an average length inseam then the 56cm or 58cm previously recommended should fit.

Unlike one guy, I think standover is the easiest quick measure of fit. You can always adjust the handlebar stem length and rise or move your saddle back and forth if the top tube is slightly wrong for your torso.

I'd second the warning on the Sora group, though. It has a bad reputation for ease-of-use as well as reliability.
I wouldn't say the Sora's that badTrent in WA
Sep 25, 2001 6:52 AM
I have a LeMond Nevada City with Sora componentry, and after having put about 1K miles on it, I haven't had any problems with it (outside of needing to adjust the hubs--my project for tomorrow). Shifting from the drops is difficult unless you have loooong fingers--depending on how you ride, that may or may not be a problem, though unless you have a conversion experience and decide to start racing it shouldn't be a deal-killer.

The real problem with Sora, for me, is its weight. The Sora triple crankset uses steel chainrings instead of aluminum, and weighs about a full pound more than 105 or Ultegra. Some manufacturers--and I don't know if Trek is one of them--spec non-Shimano aluminum cranks with their Sora bikes to save some weight and probably $$. If they do, you might have pretty iffy performance shifting up front.

So I wouldn't say Sora's *that* bad, but you can ask me again after another thousand miles.

Trent
It's the lack of upgradability.Rich Clark
Sep 25, 2001 10:01 AM
I have Sora levers on my otherwise Tiagra touring bike, and while I like the little thumb-shifter on the Soras, and have no reliability problems with the levers, I wish I could use a 9-speed cassette. But I'd have to replace the levers too. I now wish the bike had come with Tiagra levers to begin with, and would retroactively gladly pay the minimal price difference.

So while I'm not critical of the Sora group per se -- it is what it is, and it works fine -- I do think the fact that it's hard to upgrade any of it to Shimano's own higher-level components is a strong disrecommendation.

You can upgrade the cranks and FD (though there's little reason to), but you have to upgrade the RD, cassette, and levers all at once to get the benefit of the upgrade -- and that's like a $250+ hit, which can seem pretty stiff on a $500-600 bike.

RichC