|Upgrading to new bike - advice?||totrod|
Aug 30, 2001 3:30 PM
|So here's the deal... I'm looking to get a new bike. I ride centuries, some mountain pass climbs, and general club rides. I have been riding a LeMond Tourmalet. I have a chance to get a new LeMond Maillot Jaune (853 CrMo frame, mostly DA components) or a Litespeed Arenberg with Campy Daytona for about the same price. The LeMond feels more comfortable since it has geometry similar to the Tourmalet, but I like the stiffness of the Litespeed.
Any insight would be helpful.
|Flip a Coin||grzy|
Aug 30, 2001 3:39 PM
|Well, actually the Lemond sounds better since you like the fit. Stiffness is great but it's a double edged sword - it tends to get you back on the l-o-n-g rides. Get the one that speaks to your soul - you'll enjoy riding it more.|
|re: Upgrading to new bike - advice?||DRW|
Aug 30, 2001 4:10 PM
|I would take both out for 25 mile or ride, a trip around the parking will not do. I would go with steel I do not like the ride of Ti, I also like Shimano over Campy. But like said in the other post go with your soul. Dose the LeMond have the Roff wheels? They have a lot of flex compared to other wheels. Hope this helps.|
|advice - Save money, build your own and get top wheels!||nestorl|
Aug 30, 2001 5:22 PM
|For the money you are willing to spend, don't buy a production bike. Talk to Gary V. Hobbs at GVHBIKES.com or get a custom fit frame. Then build it with the exact components that you want and use the left overs to buy the top wheels on the market.... and all for 1/2 of what you would have to spend on a production bike with similar components.
And of course, if money is not an issue and you don't want to go to the trouble of bargain shopping, get the one with the prettiest paint job :-)
|re: Upgrading to new bike - advice?||buzzkill|
Aug 30, 2001 5:55 PM
|I agree with DRW on this one. Try to ride then as much as you are able to compare the feel after you have settled in a little. Should give you a pretty good idea. Try to buy the bike completely built up. I just bought a colnago and mated it with campy record group, not to mention the rest of the bike. Started with the frame and built it up over a months time. My point is that I didn't mean to go top of the line all the way. I honestly feel I would be just as happy having spent a thousand dollars less. That is what happens when you buy components one at a time. Don't forget about sex appeal either. You have to lovethe way it looks, unless you happen to be Lance Armstrong.|
|re: Upgrading to new bike - advice?||nestorl|
Aug 30, 2001 6:38 PM
|Sure but you would spend much more if you had bought your colagno fully built up with record on it. You spent more than you wanted because you went record, not because you built it. I just finish building a bike for my GF for about 1200. If she wanted to buy a production bike with the same components she would have to spend about 2200 (we actually did the math and looked at tons of production bikes). You NEVER save money by buying production bikes. If he decides what components he wants and sticks to them...he'll save money by building it from scratch.
And hey,, tell me you don't love your recod group :-)
|re: Upgrading to new bike - advice?||Tour De Lance|
Aug 30, 2001 8:10 PM
|You builtup a bike for $1200 that would have cost $2200 prebult??? Exactly what frame, components, fork and wheelset are you talking about? Not to be sarcastic, but I don't know anyone who can buildup a bike with the exact same frame, conmponents, wheelsets and fork for 1/2 the price of a pre-built bike.
By the way, to the original poster, if you testride both and like the rides of both, its just my opinion, but I would go with the stiffer ride, not the looser ride. It's my experience that it is far easier to dial down the harshness of an overly stiff bike with a fork changout and tire/rim selection than it is to dial up an overly mushy, loose frame for your desired riding style.
|Oh boy people love wasting money.||nestorl|
Aug 31, 2001 4:05 AM
|Frame & Fork 600 cannondale caad4 ghvbikes.com
Shifters STI 110 Dura ace 2000 model new ebay
Brakes C 26 105 ebay (never installed)Ebay
Bbraket 29 Ultegra
Crank set 65 Ultegra Ebay
Stem 20 Nashbar
Seat post/Seat 60 Performance closeout
Chain 20 DuraAce supergo
Rde 64 DuraAce supergo
Fde 43 Dura Ace Supergo
Wheels 200 Ultegra with pen pro peformance
Hbar 24 Closeout nashbar
Cannondale R600/ With 105 and Tiagra 1,399
Cannondale R200 with ALL ultegra (NO dura Ace) 2,300
Even if you did not do all the bargain shopping and buy everything new you will never get all the way up to $2,300. Let's say you want all dura ace and all new....GHVBIKES: entire kit dura ace kit for 1000, frame 600
TOTALl 1600! Comparison: Cannodale R4000 price $3,000 (100% MORE!!!!)
I am still convinced. NO ONE EVER saves money by buying a production bike UNLES you are going very low end (tiagra ans sora).
|It's a good alternative||Tig|
Aug 31, 2001 6:53 AM
|It just depends on what parts you want vs what price you can get them at.
I plan to put most of my 105 parts from my old Trek on a new frame I'm ordering, with a few upgrades squeezed in. I can upgrade the drive train later if I want. I don't need 2 bikes and don't need to buy a complete new set of components. I need a better frame but can't afort a whole new bike, so this will work for now.
|Oh boy people love wasting money.||Tour De lance|
Aug 31, 2001 2:44 PM
|I'm not sure where you got the notion that the bike you builtup is comparable to an R2000, but here's a newflash: THEY ARE NOT!! The R2000 comes standard with a Mavic Ksyrium wheelset with Conti GP 3000 tires which I'll guarantee you from a performance and cost standpoint is worlds better and higher priced than your $200 Ultegra Pen Pro bargain combo.
Please let me know where you can buy a pair of Ksyriums with matching Conti GP 3000 tires new for $200 (which you used to price your buildup at) and then your comparison will have a hint of legitimacy, but only a hint!!
Next, you are comparing your frame (a CAAD4) with a CAAD5 frame (a frame which has noticeably more resilient seatstays, chainstays and new head tube design and superior ride quality). Can you buy a CAAD5 frame from GVH for $600?? NOPE!!
The CAAD4 frames from 2001 were used on the Cannondale R600 and R800 models so why are you comparing the price on your CAAD4 frame/fork buildup to the $2300 R2000 which uses CAAD5 frame/fork and Mavic Ksyriums/Comti GP3000 tires??
You quoted $1,399 for an R600??? Well that's pretty funny, because right now at one of my local bike shops (who do not have great prices by any stretch of the imagination) I can buy a 2001 R800 CAAD4 58cm with drivetrain components that are at not quite as good as yours (shimano 105 and cannondale expert mix) - but the wheelset, frame, seatpost, saddle, tires, stem and bars are at least as good if not better than what you described for $1,400. Sunshine Bicycles (Clemson, SC). That's without negotiating a thing!! I'll guarantee you I could talk them down to $1200-1250 if I wanted to and I'll get a prodfessional 1 hour fitting with that price!
As a matter of fact, the CycleCenter in Columbia , SC currently has a 2000 model yr R3000 with Dura Ace/Ultegra mix for a blowout price of $1950 and I bet I could talk another 100 or 200 off of that so I'm not sure where you are getting $2,300 from an an R2000 for comparison purposes especially when the wheelset, and frame of the R2000 (probably the 2 most important parts of the bike) are substantial and I do mean SUBSTANTIAL upgrades over the builtup bike you just described!!
It sounds like you chose to use full retail of the prebult bikes for your comparison purposes while using your personal bargain prices for your own frame buildup - I'd hardly call that a legitimate comparison or analysis!!
Comparing the prices of a $200 Ultgegra wheelset wiyh tires and a CAAD4 frame/fork with a CAAD5 frame/fork and Mavic Ksyriums./Conti GP3000's is nothing short of ridiculous!
Please try comparing apples with apples, not apples with oranges next time! :-)
By the way, your buildup cost analysis also fails to include the prices of having the bike built (labor charges) and shipping charges for the individual component purchases that were shipped to you, unless they shipped you everything for free???
Any bike shop that does a serious professional fitting and subsequent buildup is gonna charge you at a minimum between $100-150, and I emphasize SERIOUS over some Mickey Mouse buildup where they don't even bother fitting you in advance and making sure they get little things right like the steerer tube length before taking a hacksaw to it!! LOL. If they are only charging $30-50 they are probably doing a second rate job with likely no fitting.
Yes, there are bargains to be found out there, and you can probably get some great frame deals at GVH (he's very reputeable) but overall you are certainly not making the killing you attempted to portray by building up your own bike (yes you got a few Dura Ace and Ultegra components at good prices and a decent frame price, but you also got what sounded like a generic stem, saddle, seatpost, bar and wheelset combo. I'd gladly pay $1425 for a built 2001 R800 knowing I'm gonna be professionally fit to it, have the opportunity to take multiple test rides on it at the LB
|re: Upgrading to new bike - advice?||Jammin|
Aug 31, 2001 2:52 AM
|Depends on your riding. Do you do a lot of 50+ mile rides? I would go with the Lemond. Time trials and sprints.... I would go with the stiffer framed Litespeed.
I have a Lemond Zurich (steel) and I love it. I chose it over a few stiffer bikes in the same price range. Mushy? No. It is a well balanced smooth ride but it is stiff enough where it climbs pretty well. Plus it has the looks to kill.
But....if you weigh 200+ lbs or need a large frame, then maybe consider the Ti bike since steel would be a little more flexy in that case, but I think the bottom line is what feels the best to you.
I would get a piece of paper and just write out all the pros and cons of each bike....some times that helps you weight the choice to one or the other .....better than juggling all the issues in your head.
|Don't get the litespeed, unless...||keith m|
Aug 31, 2001 5:30 AM
|you're planning on upgrading those Spinergy SR-3 wheels to something else. Very high failure rate on those pups. So right there you allready need to spend more money.|
|re: Upgrading to new bike - advice?||totrod|
Aug 31, 2001 7:13 AM
|Way kewl... thanks for all the sage advice. I'm afraid I don't have the patience to put together a bike although I see it could be a big savings. Also, this all kinda confirms my test-ride suspicions... the Litespeed is a sprinter, but the LeMond is more in tune with my kind of riding.
Again, this is really helpful.... thanks!
|re: Upgrading to new bike - advice?||nestorl|
Aug 31, 2001 7:28 AM
|GVhbikes.com builds it for you...for FREE and you still pay 1/5 the price for much better components and frame...BUt hey, if you want the "Lemond" name on your frame...go for it..It sure is pretty.|
|re: Upgrading to new bike - advice?||rrjc5488|
Aug 31, 2001 9:36 AM
|definitaley go with the litespeed if you can get if for the same price, i mean titanium is more comfortable and alot lighter, and you can probably get it to fit like a glove with a little tweaking if it doesnt already, im 13 and im going titanium for my first road bike (but not litespeed) way too expensive|| |