|Ti vs steel spokes||SamDC|
Aug 26, 2001 12:27 PM
|Any noticeable performance increase with ti spokes (besides weight)? Or are they just a waste of money (and a lot of it)? Thanks!|
|a waste of money...||C-40|
Aug 26, 2001 2:29 PM
|Never heard anything positive about Ti spokes. Most say they stretch and won't stay true. Just what you want, a high-buck wheelset that needs constant attention. Stick with Revolutions or Sapim spokes. Both have had good reviews.|
|a waste of money...||SamDC|
Aug 26, 2001 2:34 PM
|Thanks C-40! It always seems like you're the only one (or one a handful) who ever answers my questions. Anyway, what gauge spoke, butted or non-butted spokes would you recommend for a radially laced wheel. Also what kind of hubs and how many holes (less than 36)? Chris King is the only one I know of that can handle a radial lacing pattern. Thanks again!|
|More data?||Kerry Irons|
Aug 26, 2001 3:51 PM
|Ditto the message on Ti spokes. Some materials are highly suitable for some applications, and poorly suited to others. Ti for spokes has not worked out well, though it may sometime in the future.
Regards your wheel question, it would be useful to know your weight and the application. Superlight TT wheel for a 120 lb rider is one thing, wheel for fully loaded touring and a 225 lb rider is another. BTW, the primary advantage to radial spoking is cosmetic. A secondary advantage is that it makes the wheel easier to clean. Any other advantage claims (lateral stiffness, aerodynamics) are so hotly debated as to lead one to believe that they are a wash.
Aug 26, 2001 3:43 PM
|Pls they are not reccomended with alloy nipples, so it pretty much kills all weight advantage.
Also reccomend WheelSmith spokes XLs or DBs. If you need stronger wheel WS DBs are the best choice they are lighter then DT Champions (WS 15g is 1.7mm vs 1.8mm DT) yet stronger then Revos.
|reasons for radial||SamDC|
Aug 26, 2001 3:57 PM
|Pretty much as a first time wheel building project and once I sharpen my skills, build a light wheel. However reading cyclopathic's post, I guess there is no real advantage to a radially laced wheel. BTW, I'm 5'10'' and about 165 lbs.|
|and just in case you weren't convinced...||Jofa|
Aug 27, 2001 4:37 AM
|Radial lacing carries one significant disadvantage, which is that the load the spokes exert on the hub is one which hubs aren't designed to tolerate, and the flanges may fail... if they are designed with radial lacing in mind, then the necessary extra material negates the minute weight saving of the shorter spokes, so there is no net saving anyway. I've had two of my own hubs fail as a result of radial lacing- both forged, one Suntour, the other Shimano- and bike shops will show the the results of other cases, so it is far from a rare incident.
There is often confusion over the demonination of spoke thicknesses: the usual correlation is the "English" system, where 14guage=2.0mm, 15g=1.8mm, and 16g=1.6mm. Experience has shown that round section swaged (double-butted) spokes, measuring 2.0mm at the ends and 1.8mm in the centre section, are the best compromise between durability and light weight. I favour DT but others are fine I'm sure.
|re: reasons for radial||cyclopathic|
Aug 27, 2001 6:30 AM
|actually radial laced heads in wheel would be the lateraly stiffest option you can get, that's why Bontrager laces his wheels this way.
At 165lbs you'd be fine with Revos or XLs. If this is your century/commute bike and you planning to put lotsa miles on it I'd go with WS DBs.
Other post is right not all hubs reccomend radial lace (Shimano voids warranty).
If you wanna build light set of wheels on budget, get Am Classic hubs I think I saw a pair for ~130$ at eBay (they normally more like 250$). Light, cartridge bearings, grease injection port. Not near King quality though. Still decent hubs good luck