|The Wheel war!!!||I'llridethrushit|
Aug 8, 2001 4:42 PM
|Here's another question in my quest to build the best, cheapest road bike.
I'm looking for an everyday wheelset that I can also do the occasional race (crit, road race) on. b/c I'll be training on em, they must be clinchers. I'll be riding on mostly rolling terrain - not very flat, but no monster climbs either
I've thought of the following (based on my connections):
1. Campy Nucleons - light, stiff. But not too aero, and tough to get spokes.
2. Campy Shamals - aerodynamic, not too light though.
3. Shimano Dura Ace - somewhat aero, decent weight.
4. build a wheelset using: Zipp hubs, Velocity aerohead or deep v rims, and maybe even sapim cx rays.
I can get all of these new for under 500, so that's sort of the price range I want to stay in. Any thoughts are very welcome.
Thanks in advance!!!
|re: The Wheel war!!!||Avanti Guy|
Aug 8, 2001 5:08 PM
|Have a look at Krysiums, they are a nice set of wheels...
The shamals are good also but may be a bit heavy for the crits as it is a bit more weight to spin up out of every corner. If you werent on a budget I would suggest Krysiums for Crits and Shamals for the Road.
|Can't go wrong with option #4||peloton|
Aug 8, 2001 5:29 PM
|Have the best wheelbuilder you can find build you a wheel. Simple reasons- 1) You can build more wheel for your money without the premium of a boutique wheel.
2) Ease of replacement parts- Build the wheel with off the shelf parts and it is easy to get replacements for the inevitable failures. Try getting a spoke for a Shamal or Kysrium in a pinch.
3) Ease of maintanence- Try truing that Shimano wheel, or a Rolf, or some other high tension build. A lot of shops won't even touch them. Can be done, but takes some experience.
4) YOU get to choose all the parts invovled. Everything is a wheel as YOU think it should be. No one else will have your wheelset.
5) Break the trend! Everyone has pre-build boutique wheels today it seems. Even I'm riding on some Cosmics right now as I tell you to build your own. I'm building my own for my next wheelset though.
|Not a bad idea...but what rims do you like? nm||MikeC|
Aug 8, 2001 5:57 PM
|I ride a custom build...||GregGil|
Aug 8, 2001 8:46 PM
|using Velocity Aerohead rims and Hugi 240 hubs with DT revolution spokes...this is a terrific wheelset: light, fast, comfortable. I would highly recommend this option. I am about to build a set with Zipp 280 rims laced to Hugi 240 hubs. I am selling a set of Velomax Javelin Pros (Carbon Zipp 340 rims laced to velomax hubs). I will cut you a great deal if you are interested...|
|re: The Wheel war!!!||mmaggi|
Aug 9, 2001 5:40 AM
|I don't race. I train hard with Cat 4 & 5 racers. I weigh 190-195lbs.
That said, here's my 0.02.
1. Campy Nucleons - I have them and love them. They're light enough (1580g for the pair) and great in the flats as well as the climbs. I popped a spoke after 1,200 miles (it happens, sooner or later, whether you like or not). BrandfordBike.com has a mini spoke set available for $30. If you purchase these wheels, make sure you order the spoke set before you pop the spoke. You'll save 3-4 days in waiting time.
2. Campy Shamals - Too heavy. They look awesome, but they're just too heavy. If you want an aero aluminum wheel that's lighter, just get the Mavic Ks. They're a good set of wheels and they're strong and lighter. The only problem may be Campy compatability. Guys I ride with have had some minor problems with the Campy 10 speed version. Just fine with Shimano. Oh... make sure you get the spoke kit for that wheelset too when you purchase them.
3. Shimano Dura Ace - Dont' know much about them. I don't see many riders using them either. When I was in the market for wheels, many bike shop guys advised me against them and they were selling them!
4. build a wheelset using: Zipp hubs, Velocity aerohead or deep v rims, and maybe even sapim cx rays : Good idea too. Just make sure that you get a good wheelbuilder who knows what he's doing.
|the broken record||Dog|
Aug 9, 2001 5:47 AM
|I know I sound like a broken record, but again I'd recommend Ksyriums. I have Campy and Shimano rears, and they have worked flawlessly over 20,000 miles. Best all around wheel, in my book. Might exceed your budget, though.
I have Nucleons, too; good wheels, but very difficult to change clincher tires on. The rim channel is shallow.
"Best/cheapest" is contradictory. For all around value, though, it's hard to beat Mavic Open Pros and Dura Ace hubs.
|K.I.S.S. (acronym to live by)||onrhodes|
Aug 9, 2001 6:03 AM
|If you want a set of wheels you can train and race on then just go with a set of dura ace hubs on mavic open pro rims. Do a 2x 15 gauge in the front and a 2x non drive and a 3x drive in the rear with 14/15 DB spokes. You will always be able to get replacement parts. Maintaining them is very easy. You can do it for under $350. Save yourself the cash on the pre-builts and use that money towards tires or something else worthwhile.
I race on Nucleons or Ventos and train on Record hubs built 14/15 x cross front and rear on mavic open pros. If I had to choose one wheelset to keep that would be the one. The only reason I have the others is
1) because I have a good job and I can afford them
2) I got suckered into the whole marketing scheme
|K.I.S.S. (acronym to live by)||badabill|
Aug 9, 2001 6:30 AM
|I have the same build with CXP33 rims that work great. Light enough yet very strong. My second set of wheels are velomax ascents. To be truthfull I thaught the velomax would be a great improvment, believed all the hype about fancy wheels. It is just that HYPE! You cant go wrong with mavic rims laced to a good set of hubs, nothing fancy it just works.|
Aug 9, 2001 11:04 AM
|Hey badabill, you don't have high opinions about the Ascents?? I have narrowed my wheel choices to the Ascents or the Ksyriums. Have you had any experience with the Ksyriums?? Thanks.|
|re: The Wheel war!!!||Mel Erickson|
Aug 9, 2001 6:38 AM
|Crits and road races really call for different kinds of wheels. If most of your racing will be crits then go for the lightest, most laterally stiff, rims/wheels. You will be doing alot of slowing down and accelerating and rotating weight is your enemy, not aerodynamics. For road races, unless there are some real mountains, go aero. Weight is less important. Since most of your training is on rolling hills aero would be better here too. I'm assuming your training includes group rides and you want to be competetive with your buddies in the inevitable training races. If not, then it makes no difference for training. In fact, the heavier and less aero the better for training because you will get a better workout.|
|build your own||girodebirdman|
Aug 10, 2001 12:57 AM
|Instead of the Nucleons, you could do better building your own. I am currently building a set of 3X front and rear,28h, Sapim Lasers, Am. Classic cassette hubs, alloy nips, and GEL330 front/old GP4 rear (I weigh about 143 lbs). Give or take a few grams, this set should be about 1315 grams, compared with 1500 grams for Nucleon tubulars. That is light! Plus, with the 3X lacing, it should be much stronger than a radially laced front/rear non-drive side. Not to mention that I got a deal on most of the parts, so, excluding building costs, I will be paying about $270 for the setup. Not too shabby. If this was a clincher set you were building, you could still come in at 1450 grams for much less than the Nucleons. Depending on your weight, if you went with a 32h rim, you could have an almost bombproof wheel. The key in my experience is a good wheelbuilder. Someone who has built thousands of wheels will give you a set that doesn't need to be trued. I would look into sautering (SP?) the spokes at their cross, people have had good luck with that. The wheel won't go out of true, although lead sauter adds a bit of weight. Whatever you do, don't waste money on those botique wheels, unless you need aero, and even then, the CXP30 rim is a good choice if you build your own.|| |