|Are tublars better than clinchers and why?||joelliot|
Jul 25, 2001 6:30 AM
|I have alway heard that the tublars are better but i have never heard any reason why. Seems to me like if you get a flat you are out of luck|
|here's why:||Rusty McNasty|
Jul 25, 2001 6:50 AM
|the tires weigh less, since they lack a bead. The rims weigh less, since they don't have to hold a bead. You carry an entire spare tire for flats (or else somebody else carries one for you). Changing even a well-glued tubular takes less time than changing a clincher, and it doesn't require tools.
Of course, there are many drawbacks to tubulars, mostly having to do with the greater amounts of time and money involved with them. Still, all the major competitors in the TdF are using them, and most track bikes use them, so that should tell you something.
Tubulars are not for everyday useage, but rather for the high-performance rider only. If you aren't willing to work with their shortcomings, don't get them. And don't badmouth them if you haven't used them, either!
|I almost forgot:||Rusty McNasty|
Jul 25, 2001 6:58 AM
|they can hold much higher pressures, too. Tufo makes one road tubular that can go to 220 psi, and most decent tubulars can handle 175 psi. at those pressures, you do get less rolling resistance. if you want a better ride, just lower the pressure to clincher levels, and the ride is much better than a clincher will ever give you.|
|high performance or racing?||ColnagoFE|
Jul 25, 2001 7:00 AM
|i'd say they have a place for racing...but good clinchers are best for all around use and riding...even racing. There really isn't all that much difference in ride quality these days and for me they are just not worth the hassle. maybe if I was a TDF rider that had others do all the work for me and changed tires everyday anyway. Sure you can change a tubie on the road, but don't think about taking a high speed twisty descent until you properly glue it on. not so with a clincher. they are just as good when patched on the road...you don't have to go easy on the ride home...and god forbid you get 2 flats after you use your spare wheel (which weighs a more than a patch kit or spare tube BTW). You better be a good at sewing alongside the road or you're walking. Not to mention repairing them after flatting (and they DO flat).|
|buy good tires and good glue!||Rusty McNasty|
Jul 25, 2001 7:10 AM
|I don't race, but my best road bike has tubulars. i think that the better ride from the tubulars is what makes the difference in completing a century ride, or having to quit early due to wrist and hand fatigue. for longer rides, carry 2 spares, and a small patch kit. if you can figure out a derailleur cable, you can figure out a zipper stitch. my fastest time was 20 minutes from removal to reinflation.
$h!tty tubulars are worse than junk clinchers. you gotta buy good tires if you ride tubies. conti sprinters can be found for $35, vittoria corsas and hutchinsons for about $40, and tufo makes some of the best tubulars for the money, one model which is guaranteed to not flat (it costs $70, though). If you decide to make the switch, you will never go back to clinchers.
|i ride tubies but the advantage is shrinking||dupe|
Jul 25, 2001 2:39 PM
|as a very recreational rider i still ride conti sprinters as my only tires. i enjoy them and i look after them. but ill readily admit that the gap is now close to negligable.
i still love the ride and the roll but options are fewer and far between. a build of custom wheels recently all but forced me to use mavic reflex rims as most places stock this as their only tubular rim. i also will be in even bigger trouble if the guy who repairs my tubulars (ex racer - legend old schooler) passes on.
i certainly wouldnt have the patience to do the repairs myself.
i can strip a flat and reglue one on the road with little fuss and experience less flats than my riding buddies for the same given milage. if i flat i ride home which is easy when doing a cicuit in my 'hood.
i can see myself on veloflex pave's next wheelset around. supple, well made and reasonably light.
but nothing can sprint/climb/accelerate like a light tubular rear.
anyone if they think about it will admit this is given.
i see them going the same way as friction downtube shifters over time. price and technology will eventually sway towards clinchers.
ill admit the concept of tubulars appeals to me in a purist sense.
but depending on your luck can be expensive at $50 to $80 bucks a pop unless you are blessed with super strength fingers and are a master with needle and thread.
|Performance and weight are better, somewhat..||Cima Coppi|
Jul 25, 2001 6:53 AM
|Back in the old days, when clincher tires were bulky, wire beaded, poorly designed tires, tubulars were a significant performance upgrade. The fact they do not have a bead, and the rim does not require a canal to seat the tire allowed tubular tires and rims to weight significantly less than their clincher counter parts. Today, tire technology has mostly changed this. |
There is, however, still the issue that a tire properly glued to the rim will perform better, as there is no chance of the tire slipping on the rim. Remember, a clincher is held on the rim by psi maintained in the tube. In theory, the tire can still slide minute distances along the bead, where as a tubular will never move on the rim if it is fully inflated or deflated.
|By jove! This just happens to be discussed in detail...||ET|
Jul 25, 2001 7:21 AM
|in the latest issue of Cycling Plus! (Sorry, couldn't resist.) Check out page 43 (August issue, the one which reviews CAAD6). While the posts here have covered most of the tradeoffs, one thing not yet mentioned explicitly as to why some TDF riders prefer them is because in peloton use you are less likely to fall with tubulars in case of a flat since the tire stays on the rim, and you can still ride short distances (to the waiting repair car!?!).|
|And a few more which is ciritcal||ixiz|
Jul 25, 2001 9:52 AM
|Blowouts are almost non existance if you follow your intuition (throw them away when you see the threads, get a new set if its brittle,.....) A blowout descending on a clincher will almost send you to the emergency room
Rims are stronger because the x section of the riim is all structural where as the clincher rim needs to hold the bead.
170psi tubular rides as soft as a qualit clincher at 120 psi (my experience, you have the right to argue that)
|What size air compressor...||Lone Gunman|
Jul 25, 2001 12:49 PM
|am I going to need to lug around on the bob trailer so I can inflate the tire after I flat?|| |