Jul 24, 2001 5:28 PM
|I've got a Litespeed Catalyst (about 3 years old) with Ultegra triple, Mavic Open Pros, Profile carbon fork, kinda stock. (OK, don't laugh at the triple. I live in Colorado, and no, I ain't givin' it up). I've got the Profile carbon aerobars.
That being said, I'd like to chose a few upgrades that are good bang for the buck in terms of saving weight. I ponder a threadless headset, but that means a new fork (right?) I don't race, but do aggressive sport touring (centuries, and the ever-so-rare brevet). So, no, I don't want to totally sacrifice comfort.
If I were to change an item or two, what should it be? Yes, yes. Other than losing weight off the "engine" (me).
Jul 24, 2001 5:41 PM
|Open Pros are nice, but not the lightest wheelset around. Wheels are where you will actually feel a difference.
Don't bother with the headset.
|Actually...Open Pros can be light||ColnagoFE|
Jul 25, 2001 2:29 PM
|depending on the spokes and hubs used. as light as heliums or lighter i'd say. and a lot cheaper to boot.|
|re: Savin' weight||Lone Gunman|
Jul 24, 2001 6:05 PM
|Negative on giving up on conversion of the threaded to non threaded fork. Colorado Cyclist catalog came today and cinelli has a neckless quill that works just like a threadless. You attach the neck used in threadless to the neckless quill and keep the threaded fork, headset. Don't know if it will save you any weight or not. Wheelset, Rolf pro's or the Ksyeriums. Go to the classifieds and cut a deal. You aleady have a great bike setup, tweak it with some wheels.|
|Getting Lean||grzy mnky|
Jul 24, 2001 6:27 PM
|I'd ditch the aero bars. Those things are surprisingly heavy (yes, even the carbon ones) and they screw up the feel and handling of the bike. They do have their place: tris, TT's, long-ass rides. How much do you really use them if you're climbing/descending hills? I'll slapped a set on for certain events, but I always love the feel of taking them off. |
Going DA will save you about 5 oz. and cost a bunch and you'll still have to use your heavier Ultegra levers for the triple. Going threadless/carbon steerer can save you about 1/2 lbs. and cost around $500. There's not a lot wrong with your wheels, but you can spend a bunch and save a little.
Probably the best places to long in terms of bang/buck is the pedals, seatpost, cog set, and stem. These are often over looked and the first place that the mfr. relaxes the spec when trying to hit a price point and maintain profit margin. Your bars may also be kinda heavy. Build a little spreadsheet and compare your weights vs. cost - anything that comes in well under $100 per ounce saved is worth looking at.
Just remember the golden rule: all bikes weigh 30 lbs. An 18# bike needs a 12#. lock, a 25# bike needs a 5# lock, and a 30# bike doesn't need a lock. ;-)
|Ha, ha, ha....||Starliner|
Jul 24, 2001 6:38 PM
|that was a real fine post grezmnky, you're one of my faves but this one earns you a nomination for something.|
|Getting Lean at a cost||Steeve|
Jul 25, 2001 1:05 PM
|"under $100 per ounce saved is worth looking at."
Read as $1,600 per pound.
Jul 25, 2001 2:31 PM
|This is the Grzy Mnky's personal updgrade criteria (GM PUC for short) and is meant for the higher end stuff. Take an 18 lbs. bike, any 18 lbs. bike, now make it weigh 17 lbs. and think about the cost of doing this. You might be surprised at the results. Use a Trek OCLV 5200 as a case study - as I did. Dump the Rolf's and the Icon stuff and replace it with high end, lighter componentry. Sure there will be exceptions and back room deals wheer you can get your buddy the dealer to swap the stuff out before you buy the bike and only charge the difference, but I'm talking about a bike that's already been bought and used. |
It's funny, but people will do all sorts of crazy things to lighten their bikes at any cost, when there are cheaper and easier ways readily available. Swapping Ultegra brake calipers for DA will only save a few grams, yet it will cost quite a bit. Dumping the STI shifters for a set of down tube shifters and straight levers will cut weight AND put money in your pocket when you sell the STI levers in the classifieds.
|re: Savin' weight||cyclopathic|
Jul 24, 2001 6:38 PM
|engine would be your best bet
look you can spend a grand or two and take off 2lbs. Is it gonna make diff? maybe a minute or two on 400k brevet.
Second light parts usually have shorter life. I've ridden with rider who had really bad crash when her "light" handlebar broke on downhill /was ok for a few years/.
But if your mind set on loosing weight check:
- pedals (Speedplay or bebob considerably lighter then look)
- DuraAce bottom brkt
- handlebar /Easton carbon is 195g!/
going threadless would save you weight (lighter stem too!)
and yes lighter wheels.. personally I think good aero wheels with aerospokes well worth 1/2lb pennalty
|re: Savin' weight||ferdie|
Jul 25, 2001 4:23 AM
|cut off the seat tube|
|some ideas, but remember...||Dog|
Jul 25, 2001 6:33 AM
|If you have an Ultegra cassette, switching to Dura Ace will save about 1/4 pound. Pretty good bang for the buck.
I'd always go with wheels first, though. Consider Ksyriums, but not really a good cost/weight loss ratio.
Aerobars weigh right at about one pound. Removing them saves weight, but your over all speed may be faster using them if you have a lot of flats or easy downhills.
Small parts, like headsets, won't save much weight.
If it works for you, a Selle Italia SLR saddle (138 grams) will save about 1/4 pound off even a Flite Ti saddle. I have them on two bikes, and ride double centuries on it.
A USE Alien carbon seatpost can knock off about 50 grams (2 ounces) over most seatposts.
If you like them, Speedplay X/1 pedals are very light compared to most anything else. For me, though, I lose more in efficiency than I gain because of weight savings with them.
Bottom line, though, is to remember that weight savings won't make a noticeable difference unless you do the whole bike. Check this website for some objective data: http://www.analyticcycling.com ; do the "weight savings on hill" formula. What I've found is that you can spend a whole lot of money and time on light stuff, developing a high expectation for increased speed; chances are you'll be dissappointed, especially if you are not whacking pounds off the bike. A few ounces here and there just won't be noticeable.
|some ideas, but remember...||amflyer|
Jul 25, 2001 2:10 PM
Does that 1/4 lb. value hold true for the newer "drilled" Ultegra cassettes? You're probably right, but it seems like I remember reading that the newer Ult. cassette compared a bit more favorably towards the DA tree.
(You know, I could just look it up, but then isn't that what a discussion board is for?)
|some ideas, but remember...||amflyer|
Jul 25, 2001 2:18 PM
|OK, I'm not that lazy.
According to Colorado Cyclist's web page. the difference between a DA 12 X 23 and a Ultegra 12 X 23 cassette is 43 grams, or about a tenth of a pound difference.
Not trying to be a know-it-all, but guess what kind of cassette is on my bike... ;-)
|some ideas, but remember...||grzy mnky|
Jul 25, 2001 2:41 PM
|I *think* the difference gets larger as the cogset gets bigger, but I'm lazy too! Specially when you look at some of the ti configurations.|
|on ounce off your rear wheel is worth 3 anywhere else||dupe|
Jul 25, 2001 2:43 PM