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will this damage my bike???(19 posts)

will this damage my bike???Scott G.
Jul 20, 2001 9:34 AM
hello
i know that you are to keep the chain in "line" but i like to ride in my 52x(3rd from the biggest rear.. think its a 21; its a 9 speed). will this cause any damage?

thanks!
no, it won't.Rusty McNasty
Jul 20, 2001 9:40 AM
the reason you have gears is to use them. how did you get the idea that the chain has to stay "in-line" all the time? maybe you should avoid the lowest cog in the highest ring, but that's about all.
Agree. Use the gears as you see fit, exceptDoll Face
Jul 20, 2001 10:55 AM
don't use the small ring with the smallest cog, or the big ring with the largest cog. It is about riding enjoyment, not about getting a few more miles out of a $20 chain.
re: will this damage my bike???ixiz
Jul 20, 2001 9:54 AM
As long as your chain does not stretch your rear deraileur pulleys too far - then its ok.

But if you are concern a 39/14 or 39/15 has the simmilar gear ratio to a 53/21 so why not use that instead.

If you stay too far in the extreme cogs - you may wear those cogs out faster due to the chainline. and theoreticaly less efficient
Good QuestionKristin
Jul 20, 2001 10:00 AM
And Rusty says stay away from the farthest gears... crossover gears I believe their called. So will this hurt the chain? I spend a good amount of time in the 39x12 gear. Mostly because I'm trying not to leave the little ring. So if its flat I end up here. Good idea or bad? One thing that I learned after droping my chain 5 times was to never shift from 52x23 to 39x?(2 down) simultaneously. Slows things down fast.
will somebody answerdale c
Jul 20, 2001 10:20 AM
Do some bikes have different gears? If so, how do you change them? I have a new Trek 1000... I am new to biking, and I sometimes wish it were easier to peddle, especially when goin uphill. Do I need a new bike?
well, as you should be able to tell, we each have a differentbill
Jul 20, 2001 10:32 AM
bike for each gear. No, not really.
If I am interpreting your question correctly, you are shifting the gears you have, across the whole spectrum of available gears (and you understand what difference you are making when you change the front and the rear settings), but you still think that you need an easier gear. You can change this by getting a different cassette (set of cogs for your rear wheel -- or, set of rear gears, if that helps), which will allow different gear ratios that may help you get up the hill. The larger the rear cog is, the easier it is to pedal. So, if you get a set with larger rear cogs, problem solved.
If you know what you have or you can figure out what you have (you count the number of teeth in the cogs; for example, my current cassette is an "11-23," meaning that my littlest cog has 11 teeth and my biggest has 23; I'm getting another cassette soon with 12-25 for exactly what you describe), we may be able to provide more info. Your LBS certainly will be able to help, and they'll be able to sell you a different cogset. They're not terribly expensive; for that bike, you probably can get another one for under $30.
will somebody answerLen J
Jul 19, 2001 6:17 PM
I assume you are asking if the gearing that comes with your bike can be changed. The answer is yes, in three different ways.

1.)The casette on the back wheel can be changed. Your bike probably came with a casette with 9 rings ranging from 12 teeth to 25 teeth (12X25)(count them & see). Depending on the setup of your bike (wether you have a double chainring in front or a triple) you can have this casette changed to one with the larger ring (in the rear)having more teeth. More teeth in the rear makes it easier to pedal.

2.)The chainrings in the front can be changed. Most doubles come with a 39 tooth and a 53 tooth ring in the ftont. The smaller the ring in the front the easier it is to pedal. (& the slower you go). You can buy different size chainrings for the front and change them.

3.)A Bike can be converted from a double to a triple, (or triple to double). This is a complicated change that involves a new Crank, Front Der. Rear Der. and is pretty involved. A normal triple has 3 front chainrings 52teeth, 42 teeth & 30 teeth(granny gear).

Just remember Larger front & smaller rear = Higher speed & harder to pedal. Smaller front & larger rear = Slower speed but easier to pedal.

Hope this helps.
Dale...MrCelloBoy
Jul 20, 2001 10:33 AM
The cog set (or gear cassette) in the rear may be swapped out, by your local dealer or with a couple of tools (Chain-whip and a cog-removal tool specific to your brand of cassette) for a wider range set with a lower (easier to pedal uphill) gear. You may also be able (depending on the make and model) be able to swap out the small chain ring on the front gears to achieve a similar end result.
A new bike can, in some circumstances, make it easier to climb, but in your case Id stick with this bike and just have your shop give you a lower gear.
I highly recommend "Anybody's Bike Book" for a basic guide to understanding bicycles. All of my current knowledge of bike mechanics began with that book. It's easy to read and funny. Kind of like the guides that are popular for VW's.
thanksdale c
Jul 20, 2001 10:54 AM
I see all the different cog things on the back wheel, but the chain is alway on the one in the middle- how do I get it to change?
thanksLen J
Jul 20, 2001 10:59 AM
If you have shifters on your downtube, move the one on the right.

If you have shifters integrated into your brake levers, either push the entire right brake lever to the inside (to move to an easier rear gear) or push the small leveer on the inside of the right brake lever to the inside (to move to a harder rear gear. The left Brake lever works on the front Gears.
Trek1000 has SoraKristin
Jul 20, 2001 12:59 PM
Left Hand shifts front cassett (big gears):
Thumb shift = easier gear
Index Finger shift = harder gear

Right Hand shifts rear cogs (little gears/small increments):
Thumb shift = harder gear
Index finger shift = easier gear

If I recall, the Trek 1000 comes with a triple cassett in the front (three rings instead of two).
give it up!Rusty McNasty
Jul 23, 2001 4:25 AM
If you can't even figure out how to SHIFT the damn thing, DON'T attempt to work on it! Take it to the bike shop you bought it from, and ask them to teach you how to shift it, and have them give you the gears you need.
Good QuestionLen J
Jul 20, 2001 10:22 AM
Crossover gearing (Small chainring/large cog or large chainring/small cog) puts more stress & wear on both the chain & the teeth of (especially) the casette. This may cause premature wear & failure. In addition if you look at gearing tables, these crossover gears are usually close to redundant to a more direct gear.

Why do you want to stay in the small ring? Are you aware that with STI you can easily shift both front & rear simotaneously? (i.e. 39/16 to 53/18 with one "shift" with each hand). Doing it this way (with some practice) allows you to easily maintain your cadence & rythm as you ride. It can also be done in the opposite direction by simotaneously pushing the small levers on both sides.

If I didn't explain that clearly, let me know & I'll try again. it really is a helpful skill to learn.
I can easily shift them simultaneously...Kristin
Jul 20, 2001 12:46 PM
...however getting my chain back on is no fun and makes my hands dirty. I've become leary of doing this b/c I often drop my chain. Though I typically try this shift manuver from a crossover gear--perhaps that's where I've gone wrong. Or perhaps its that I go two clicks at once on the cog (i.e. 39/16 to 53/19(or whichever)).
READ THISWoof the dog
Jul 21, 2001 1:36 AM
Okay, Kristin. Here is a little thing of mine: since you drop your chain often, you should really look into adjusting the front der. screw. Make sure that your front derailure cage is ~2 millimiters away from the largest chainring!!!!! otherwise, you'd often be dropping your chain off the big ring (onto the outside). Stupid shop mechanics didn't do it once, and I don't trust them. Also make sure its inline with the chainring. Another good advice, Kristin: if you still drop the chain, which you shouldn't if you do the above, carry some disposable rubber gloves and a tiny rag. If you dropped the chain, put gloves on, put it back on, use rag for whatever (cleaning your bike and such) When done, roll the gloves off so that the dirty side is on the inside. You can reuse these for a while, depending on what you do. I am sure you can ask for some rubber gloves in some hospital or emergency room, or even buy a box of 100, while I get to reuse mine after handling all the gels and membranes in the lab. I also use gloves for cleaning my bike in general and its great!!! Always clean hands.
Sincerely,
Woof, the clean biking dog.
Good QuestionJofa
Jul 20, 2001 1:58 PM
The conventional warning of "no small to small, no big to big" is sensible; not because these combinations cause more wear or stress- I don't believe they do- but because the second might cause a short chain to destroy the rear mech and subsequently the frame, and the first might send the chain bouncing all over the place, which does no good to anything. Besides, the combinations are usually proxied elsewhere.

However I understand Kristen's reluctance to shift between chainrings. Simultaneous shifting is certainly possible, but, I'm sure, is much slower than it feels. This is like the long-running dispute in computer OS interfaces: those practitioners of obscure keyboard-shortcuts invariably claim their obtuse methods to be faster than mouse selection, yet in experiment, the mouse is shown conclusively to be the faster tool: the reason is that the keyboard requires a lot of concentration- and the mouse is so simple to use that it allows time to ponder on it all... which feels like time wasted. Shifting with the rear mech is preferred because it is faster, I am sure, and significantly so, but simultaneous shifting requires a little concentration, and therefore feels good when you get it right. I had this problem when I dabbled with a 39/53 combo when I'd become very used to 42/52. I found myself having to shift between chainrings all the time, just to keep a steady 22-25 mph on the flat... these changes were disruptive, and I soon changed the smal c/ring back to a 42.
Crossover GearingYellow
Jul 20, 2001 3:08 PM
My practice is usually to avoid the big-big and small-small gearing situations, regardless of cogset size.

However, I'm not sure how a crossover gearing situation might stress out a drivetrain. It seems that chain tension would remain pretty equal to a mid-mid situation.

Is there a helpful soul who can help clarify?
re: will this damage my bike???cycleguy
Jul 20, 2001 8:31 PM
I'm an average rider. Try 52/39 in front. A 12/25 at the rear. You can find a bunch of choices so I leave that to you. But the average rider will never need more or less then that. Want to really climb get a triple.

Want to go really fast get an 53/55 11. But then if you fit any of those you are racing somewhere and not reading this.