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Carbon Handlebars(4 posts)

Carbon Handlebarsixiz
Jul 9, 2001 6:04 AM
Please comment >?
Durability and comfort ?
Issues ?
re: Carbon HandlebarsDuane Gran
Jul 9, 2001 7:16 AM
A specific question would yield more specific answers, but I'll give this one a stab. I have the Easton EC90 bars and I really enjoy them. I hear Kestrel makes a good carbon bar with the advantage of having a cutout for the cables, which the Easton lacks. That would be my only complaint though.

The Easton is comfortable, but I think bar tape has more to do with that than anything. They feel stiff and durable to me, and I especially like the contour of the bars.

The only real issue is that you have to be careful about clamping down to tightly with the stem. A torque wrench would be ideal for this. I had my LBS install it for my peace of mind. I guess another issue might be that you can't use aerobars with a carbon bar, but this is a non-issue in my opinion.
re: Carbon Handlebarsixiz
Jul 9, 2001 7:48 AM
why cant you use an aerobar with a carbon bar ?
Is it because the aero clamp is on a not so sturdy section ??
Easton EC90 bar review.....C-40
Jul 9, 2001 3:26 PM
I just put on a set of the new Easton EC90 carbon fiber bars. They are definitely stiff. Can't say that they absorb road vibration any better than aluminum, but I'm using them on a C-40 that's all carbon, so road vibration isn't a big issue in the first place.

The bars weigh in as advertised at about 185 grams in the 40cm size (c-c).

The bend of the EC90 bars isn't perfectly suited to campy ergo levers, IMO. The levers have to be mounted high on the curve, with the bottom of the levers over an inch above the bottom of the drops, to get the hoods level. If you want the hoods angled up a few degrees, the bars can be rotated up slightly, but not much or it fouls up the angle of the ergonomic drop section (becomes too vertical).

Reach to the levers, in the drops, is a bit longer than ITM or DEDA anatomic bars, which isn't good for those with short fingers (like me).

The drop section is longer and angles back a bit more than DEDA, which is good if you've got big hands.

The overall reach is about the same as ITM or DEDA bars, perhaps a few millimeters shorter if anything. I measured from the saddle tip to the top of the brake hoods before changing the bars, to be sure that the stem length didn't need adjustment. There was little difference from the ITM 225 bars that I had previously.

The lack of cable grooves is not a problem if you route both cables along the front of the bar. I always use fiberglass reinforced strapping tape to tape the cable housing firmly in place. If placed correctly, the cables will fall into the middle joint of the finger, when using the top position. You should barely notice the cables.

The bars are advertised to be 26.0mm diameter. Mine measured between 25.8 and 25.9mm, depending on where the measurement was taken. Like most all bars, you'll find that they aren't perfectly round. They worked fine with an ITM millenium stem, which is advertised as 25.8mm diameter. It never hurts to check the fit before bolting down the faceplate of the stem. You could get bars that measure on the large side, and a stem on the small side of the allowable manufacturing tolerances. Place the bars into the stem by hand and note any tendency to pinch the bars at the parting face. If the bar is being pinched, filing a small chamfer along the edge of the parting face will cure the problem.