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Bottom Bracket offensive - I'm going in!(7 posts)

Bottom Bracket offensive - I'm going in!AlexR
Jun 18, 2001 10:28 AM
I've got a loud creak in the drivetrain that I'd like to fix, and I seem to have it isolated to the bottom bracket. I've checked the chainring bolts, crankbolt, seatpost, pedals (rode the bike with different pedals, no noise) and rear wheel (rode the bike with different rear wheel, no noise).

So, I'm going in. I'm going to buy a Campy BB tool (mine's 2000 Chorus 10spd) remove the bugger, and check for, um... well... my plan gets a little fuzzy here.

My Zinn book tells me how to install and remove it, but for maintenance he suggests replacement. I have a feeling it's not broken, since it only has 5k miles on it. If somebody could suggest a strategy for this situation, I would greatly appreciate.

Thanks and regards,

Alex
toolDog
Jun 18, 2001 10:33 AM
you know with Campy the bb tool is the same as the cassette tool, just in case you already have one.

I'd remove and replace, lubing and wrapping the threads with teflon tape. Works for me.

Doug
I just have to disagree!Kerry Irons
Jun 18, 2001 7:26 PM
Sorry 'bout that, Doug. The real deal is probably not enough torque during the original installation combined with dirty/dried out threads. Remove, clean threads (BB and frame), grease, and reinstall TO THE PROPER TORQUE. Please note, that is 70 nm, and that's a lot more "reef" than you would think. Historically (previous 30 years), I never used a torque wrench on a bike and never had a problem, but now I know I need it to get the BB right. If you don't torque it up to the 70 nm, you will get clicks and creaks. The BB doesn't need replacement unless it is running rough.
re: Bottom Bracket offensive - I'm going in!xyz
Jun 18, 2001 10:40 AM
Firstly, this isn't brain surgery, its just a BB. Also, your post is confusing, if "no noise" with other pedals and/or real wheel, then the noise is in the original pedals or the wheel. Assuming it is your BB, remove it, clean it up and reinstall. Your creak is probably grit in the BB shell threads. Lightly grease the BB threads and make sure the seals are clean. Remember, most (not all) bikes have 'english' threaded BB's. The drive side is a left-handed thread.
Sorry for the ambiguityAlexR
Jun 18, 2001 10:44 AM
I should have said "same noise" in both instances.

Thanks,

Alex
Zinn sometimes slim on details...Kevin M
Jun 18, 2001 3:05 PM
I looked into Zinn's siggestions for repacking Campy rear hubs. He suggests using a "twist tie" to hold the spring loaded pawls together. So being somewhat naive with Campy hubs I gave it a try. It took me 1/2 hour to get the bits back together. My LBS (very good mechanic) got a laugh out of that one. He sold me a $2 tool to hold the pawls while re-installing. With the right tool it took me one minute.
re: Bottom Bracket offensive - I'm going in!Samu
Jun 18, 2001 11:05 PM
If the bike is new, have the LBS work on it. Just in case you have to warranty the BB.