RoadBikeReview.com's Forum Archives - General


Archive Home >> General(1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 )


Packing a bike for travel.(5 posts)

Packing a bike for travel.Len J
Jun 15, 2001 6:21 AM
All my riding and I've never shipped my bike anywhere. I am getting ready for the AIDS Alaska ride and have been reading up about packing a bike. It seems straightforward except there is one instruction whose logic escapes me. It's easy enough to do, I just don't understand why it is necessary. The instructions say to put the chain on the big chainring and the small cog and then without turning the crank shift the front and rear der. to lower gears (allegidly to reduce tension on the cables). Why is this necessary? Anyone know?

Thanks.
You might want to remove....Thioderek
Jun 15, 2001 6:36 AM
I just got back from the CAR 8 ride. Packing up my bike to take it out there was a piece of cake. However I did have a problem that almost ended my ride before it started. When I unpacked the bike in SF the derailleur hanger was severely bent. I had to take it to the mechanics on day zero and hope that they would be able to straighten it out without breaking it. They were able to do it and I rode the entire 7 days dreading that it snap somewhere on the ride.

On my way back to NYC, I had the bike packed again but this time had the derailleur removed form the hanger. I put padding around the rear triangle and zip tied it to both sides of the seat stays. I also zip tied the chain to the seat tub to keep it from moving around too much. It came through the whole thing fine. I will never leave the derailleur attached in transit again. I suggest you do this and not concern yourself with the shifting of the gears.

Another reminder:

remember to insure your bike. I insured my bike for 3000 dollars. When I realized that it was a toss up as to whether or not I would be able to ride, I called Fedex and told them the situation. They wanted me to send the bike back to the send off point for inspection. I told them it was not an option and that I would be either getting the bike fixed or getting a new bike. They were all right with it as long as I had backup on all the damage that was repaired. Pretty nice if you ask me.

Hope this helps.
No one knows why?Len J
Jun 15, 2001 2:50 PM
I'm Bringing this back to the top because my curiosity is unsatiated.

Someone in this forum must know the answer. Anyone??
No one knows why?Mike Prince
Jun 15, 2001 3:48 PM
It's to create slack in the cables so you can easily remove the handlebars if you use STI or Ergo levers without disconnecting any gear cables. You can then remove the bars and zip-tie them to the left side of the bike. You will need to remove the rear der. cable from the slotted chainstay stop so the short housing does not get in the way. Also make sure you zip-tie the crankarm to the chainstay (use the pedal hole which should be empty) to prevent the cranks from turning in transit.

This way, when you unpack, you replace the handlebars, seat, pedals etc., un-do all of the packing and replace the rear cable in the slotted stop. Then when you turn the pedals the tension returns to the cables and you shouldn't need to do any major adjustments to the drivetrain.

Enjoy your ride.

Mike
Thank You....Len J
Jun 15, 2001 6:42 PM
Boy do I feel like an idiot. I missed the note about removing the cable from the chainstaay stop. Now it makes sense. I knew there had to be a reason, but I couldn't for the life of me figure it out. Probably looked at it too long and couldn't see the obvious

Thanks.