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Buy Prolink chain lube now(29 posts)

Buy Prolink chain lube nowLazyrider
Jun 5, 2001 5:49 PM
I know this isn't the review board but I bought this stuff last week and cleaned my chain and applied this stuff and I am absolutely amazed. I've used White lightening, Pedro's etc and I simply don't understand how this stuff works so well but the chain is dead silent and clean after 150 miles. Pedros never came close. Prolink calls it MFR Metal Friction Reducer and I am never enticed by advertising hooks but I think I'm gonna cook with this Sh#$ and possibly do nasty things to my girlfriend (ha ha just kidding).
agree - great stuffHank
Jun 5, 2001 5:51 PM
Fantastic on the road bike. Haven't gotten up the nerve to try it on my mtb yet, though.
Great on the mtb,too!look271
Jun 5, 2001 6:07 PM
It still shifts even if it gets wet and cruddy. I don't use anything else. Cheap, too.
I still like White LiteningColnagoFE
Jun 6, 2001 9:04 AM
for MTB...Prolink is a bit too dirty. Still if I rode in wet muddy conditions a lot I'd definately go Prolink. For the dry dirt. WL still seems better to me though you do have to reapply it often.
I still like White Liteninglook271
Jun 6, 2001 3:40 PM
I couldn't stand the parrafin build-up that WL causes. Had to use a chisel to get it from between my cassette cogs! (not really, but you get the point.)
Where can I buy 'em? (nm)vram
Jun 5, 2001 10:52 PM
hereBosephus
Jun 6, 2001 5:45 AM
Performance
Or here:look271
Jun 6, 2001 4:49 PM
http://www.progoldmfr.com
true that!Duane Gran
Jun 6, 2001 5:44 AM
I just started using pro-link and my drive train is in awesome shape after 200 miles of riding. I have used white lightening and tri-flow, but this stuff is much better.
3 parts OMS, 1 part Motor Oil (make it yourself)climbo
Jun 6, 2001 7:08 AM
it has been used by road and MTB'ers all over the place and it works just as good as Prolink and it's $10 for as much as you'll ever need. Good thing is you can mix it a little thinner or thicker depending on conditions, weather etc. Try it.
Tried this; didn't dig itmike mcmahon
Jun 6, 2001 10:08 AM
After reading numerous post extolling the virtues of the mixture of motor oil (usually Mobil 1) and odorless mineral spirits, I mixed a batch and tried it. After using White Lightning for years, I found the oil-based product to be very messy. I flatted the first time I used it and ended up with black, messy crap all over my hands. And yes, I applied it carefully and sparingly and wiped the excess from the chain after lubing it.
agree, works wellDaveG
Jun 6, 2001 10:33 AM
I just started this season with a 3-parts mineral spirits to 1 part Mobil 1 "homebrew" and its working well for me so far. Less hassle than White Lightening (too much re-application). I have not tried ProLink so I can't really comment with authority except that the whole "Metal Friction Reducing technology" thing sounds to me like a codeword for "Bullsh*t Enhanced Marketing". Perhaps we have a chemist here who can comment on what's different between a lubricant and MFR technology.
6 parts mineral spirits to 1 part oil...C-40
Jun 7, 2001 9:41 PM
This is the latest mix I'm trying. Leaves a lot less residue on the chain and rings, but still seems to be provide adequate lubrication.
I'm not as impressedpmf
Jun 6, 2001 7:13 AM
Everyone raves about this stuff, so I bought a bottle. Compared to the Finish Line dry lube I was using, this stuff is a dirt magnet. After 100 miles, my chain was covered with crap. Might as well do the mineral spirit/motor oil mixture people advocate here. Its lots cheaper.

I still like Finish Line better.
I'm not as impressedHank
Jun 6, 2001 11:38 AM
I think you might be using too much. Also, it works well to start with a really clean and dry chain. I've used the Finish Line dry, too, and have had much better results with Prolink. I've used Prolink in both sunny California and the wet and rainy Northwest.
I'm not as impressedpmf
Jun 6, 2001 12:04 PM
I cleaned my chain with citrus cleaner first. It was dry and clean when I applied the prolink. I applied it only on the rollers (just like Zinn says to do).

What makes it so great? To me, a chain lube is something you use to keep your chain from rusting and minimize the metal on metal wear. Any oil, or wax will do that. The Finish Line stuff works pretty well and attracts a lot less dirt. I don't see much difference between this and Pedros, Boeshield, homebrew, etc. What exactly is the "much better results"?
I'm not as impressedHank
Jun 6, 2001 1:39 PM
agree with you that it's not a huge deal - whatever works, works. The main thing is that you stay on top of it. I've just found that Prolink lasts longer and picks up less crud for me than others I have used. I still like Finish Line Cross Country on my mtb - very durable on long muddy rides. I think Boeshield is a bit on the light side for chains - I use it to prevent rust inside my frame.
Rock'n'Roll lube Absolute dry is the best...keith m.
Jun 6, 2001 7:16 AM
I've tried them all and this is the best I've found,goes on wet, evaporates and leaves the lube behind. My chain and gears stay cleaner longer and the lube really penetrates the chain well. By the way Lazy, you must be a screen writer for one of those stupid sitcoms I see advertised on T.V.. Don't quit your day job.
I'm just finishing up my first bottle of the stuff. It'sbill
Jun 6, 2001 7:31 AM
been fine, but I have some questions. The directions imply that you never have to clean the stuff off (as with a chain cleaner) and that a new application cleans as much as you need (wiping the chain down, regularly, of course). I've found that, after 3 or 4 hundred miles with a fresh application now and then, the stuff does goop up and that, at a certain point, a new application just goops it up more. I'm not sure how often I'm supposed to use a chain chainer. Because I have a perma link, I won't be removing my chain except when it goes to chain heaven, but I use one of those little machines about every 300-500 miles. Do you guys ever just have to clean it off and start over? Or am I using too much (I probably apply every 100-150 miles, road or roller)?
I'm just finishing up my first bottle of the stuff. It'skeith m.
Jun 6, 2001 7:55 AM
I clean my bike completely once a month, as in taking the wheels off, removing the cluster (cassette) and debug, and degrease and wax it all. The trick with absolute dry lube is when you put it on, hold a rag under the chain and wipe it all off as fast as you are putting it on. This keeps the chain and gears from gooping up later on. The lubricant stays in the chain and the other stuff wipes off and evaporates.
I got 2500 milesColnagoFE
Jun 6, 2001 9:07 AM
from my Campy 10 chain using just prolink and only wiping after rides. still was some wear to go even (measured .5) but i thought i'd be safe and change the chain since the damn campy 10 casettes are so much $. it looks a little goopy, but it works.
How frequently did you reapply (barring the odd mudstorm)? nmbill
Jun 6, 2001 9:55 AM
nm
not that often...ColnagoFE
Jun 6, 2001 10:13 AM
maybe every 150-200 miles or so? lasts LOTS longer than White Litening and less dirty than finish line teflon. I put it on pretty thick though...spin the cranks a few times and wait 10-15 minutes for it to sink into the links if you can and then wipe off the excess. i then wipe the chain down after every ride, but really don't clean it unless my bike gets filthy and the smooth shifting starts acting up. It will wear quicker if you ride in the rain a lot, but I rarely do that so it lasts a long time for me.
Home Brew Lubecroy
Jun 6, 2001 12:31 PM
After being a loyal white lightening user for several months, I finally brewed a batch of Mobil 1 and deordorized spirits. This stuff is far superior to the waxy crap I was using. It took a few hours to remove the built-up wax crud from all parts, but my bike now shifts much better and stays just as clean with the cheap mixture. The white lightening only lasted a few rides, while the home brew prolink has been extremely durable.
every 100 miles(nm)keith m.
Jun 6, 2001 1:57 PM
nm
ProLink techniqueKerry Irons
Jun 6, 2001 7:34 PM
Here's how to apply ProLink. Wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings to remove any gunk. Sluice the chain with ProLink (forget that one drip per link stuff). Run it through the gears several times. Wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings until the rag comes pretty clean. If you still see junk on the chain, repeat the process. Then wipe the rims, spokes, frame, etc. If you don't have lube splashing on the frame, you're probably not putting enough on the chain (to your taste). If you add lube without wiping, you will get gunk buildup.
What you described is pretty much what I do.bill
Jun 6, 2001 8:03 PM
It just seems that, after a three or four applications without a degreasing, it just gets gunky.
What you described is pretty much what I do.Skip
Jun 6, 2001 9:47 PM
Put Pro-Link in one those Park/Finish Line/Pedros/Etc. chain cleaners and run the chain round and round - the Pro-Link works well to soften up and remove the gunk (the brisles scrubbing the side and in between the links and the Pro-Link as a solvent/lubricant bathes the links). Then wipe the chain down to remove any excess blackness, relubricate with fresh Pro-Link and wipe dry. Ride. Works well for me.
Try "clean and lube"C-40
Jun 7, 2001 9:50 PM
This home made version of prolink is ideal for the campy 10 speed chain. I've used as much as 6 parts mineral spirits to 1 part synthetic oil to increase the cleaning action and reduce the oil residue. My chain never gets gooey with this mix. With a heavier mix, you can get some goo, but all you have to do is apply a two heavy doses to clean the chain at the same time you lube. Prolink will work the same way, but heavy applications will use up an expensive 4 ounce bottle pretty quick.

The empty Prolink bottles work great for applying "clean and lube".