|what's the lowest amount you should spend for a road bike?||blehargh|
Jun 1, 2001 2:34 AM
|i guess i know that right around 4-500 is the very very bottom of what you should spend for a mtn bike. but what's the lowest price you want to spend for a road bike?|
|re: what's the lowest amount you should spend for a road bike?||Jz|
Jun 1, 2001 3:33 AM
|I love questions that are completely unanswerable :> When I was shopping around for my first road bike about 6 months ago, a lot of the shop guys told me that you cannot get a quality roadbike for under 1g. I found this to be somewhat true, and somewhat false...just depends. Personally, I am a lot heavier and very hard on bikes in general, so I didn't feel comfortable with a lot of the $500ish road bikes I had taken a look at. On the other hand, I didn't have 1k and I didn't want to buy a used bike because I really wanted a warranty and a proper fit for my first road bike. My solution? I got a last year model Trek 2000 for about the same price I could have got the current, and much uglier 1000 model for. While this may not be an option right now, I will say this: I felt I got a good bike for the money I put out, but there are a number of things about it I feel could warrant an upgrade even for a rider at my level. I guess from my experience, 1k really is about the lowest you wanna go...but I seriously think you need to evaluate what you are gonna use the bike for. A lot of people would be perfectly happy with a $500-600 bike, and never even give a second thought to upgrades. Other people will find the need to fine tune things a little more, and upgrade here and there...I have found that in these cases you are usually better off going for what you wanted in the first place, seems cheaper in the end.
Just a thought
|re: what's the lowest amount you should spend for a road bike?||tigercoach|
Jun 1, 2001 4:13 AM
|I'd have to agree that the question is kinda unanswerable. It depends on what you want. If you want a warranty and all the other things that come with a bike, you should think about $600 and up probably. If you don't have a problem with a used bike, you could get a decent one for $400 or so..maybe even less if you look hard enough. Personally, if you're starting out, I would suggest a used bike. Sure, you don't get the warranty, but at least you're not spending as much money for something that may end up sitting in your garage or house looking pretty. If you find you enjoy road biking a lot, then you can think about either upgrading what you have or buying a new bike in a year or two. I've known plenty of people to buy a used bike and use it for years cuz they like it so much. I ended up buying a used bike when I started out, and once I realized I would continue riding I went ahead and bought a new one and sold the old one. Like I said, it depends on what you want.|
|free is best||mr. cheap|
Jun 1, 2001 8:45 AM
|~ $800 ??||Breck|
Jun 1, 2001 9:03 AM
|i visit a lot of lbs's including the supers from about long beach south to san diego, california. if were buying an off-the-shelf bike this looks about right price-line with the latest gear(before tax here in california of course!). there's mail order too but not recommended if you don't know exactly what you want. you will have to visit different stores for diff brands of course just like mtb. |
having both a mountain and road bike it imho may be now-a-days sim to 4wd(mountain) truck and standard(car) options. because of the mtb suspension and gear shift options, etc, for the 4wd vs and the much less options for road it is a little easier to sort out what you need and don't need. my $800 observation is specialized road with ultegra sti gruppo and nice wheel set. there's trek, cannondale, and others for trade offs and not specifying brand or gruppo lest i get flamed and have ridden all of the above campy and shimano as all my buds have diff rides & we trade sometimes, etc. even if we don't have the same frame size, though pedal options can be a problemo. hmmm, nobody's made a cleat-to-cleat conversion for test rides? i have a look tri running shoe adapter but don't like it.
|+~ $800 ??||nutmegger|
Jun 1, 2001 12:33 PM
|somewhere in there was a coherent thought.|
|+/- ~ $800 ?? where :)||Breck|
Jun 1, 2001 10:05 PM
|you're right, i'm wrong, she's gone |
|First, how low is low? (NM)||Moe|
Jun 1, 2001 10:05 AM
|I can answers this one! kinda :-)||Kristin|
Jun 1, 2001 10:51 AM
|I just went through this whole process of buying a road bike.
First, determine your goals. Why are you buying a road bike? How often/far do you want to ride? Do you intend to be competitive and eventually race? Or is this just a Sunday, stroll in the park, bike? This will help you establish a budget. The budget will help you when shopping/test riding.
These are the price ranges I found as I shopped. (If I get this wrong, someone please correct me):
$550-$899: Entry level road bikes. They will be aluminum and feel a bit bumpy. They come with lower end components (Shimano Sora/Tiagra or Campy Mirage). The biggest downfall to these is frame quality/weight.
$900-$1,399: Better quality (softer riding) aluminum and some steel frames. Mid level components (Shimano 105 or Campy Veloceperhaps even some Ultegra). These are nice entry-level bikes if you're on a tight budget. These frames are worthy of later upgrades.
$1,400-$1,999: Entry level serious bikes. Someone on this board said that the biggest improvements in ride quality and components are in this price range. The frames are excellent quality and you get into high-end components (Ultegra/Daytona(?)). The ride will be sweet. If you can spend this much and intend to ride seriously, shop in this range.
$2,000 and up.... This is where my knowledge breaks down. Hopelessly out of my price range and designed for the competitive cyclist. I'll let someone else speak on this level.
I started out with a budget of less than $1,000. I test rode bikes priced between $700-$1,300. I quickly set my budget to $1,100, which is all I had. There was a big difference in ride quality, components, and weight between a $700 bike and an $1,100 one. If only I'd had the cash to buy a $1,400 bike. A $1,400 bike might seem like an advanced purchase if you're just starting out, but if you goal is to ride seriously and improve, it will be the longest-term investment.|
|I must have missed it. What did you end up getting!? (nm)||128|
Jun 1, 2001 1:41 PM
|Sleeping on the board??||Kristin|
Jun 1, 2001 4:02 PM
|You've missed everyone of my endless posts about the DeBernardi? There were pictures even. :-)
I purchased a yellow & black fade (very sweet) DeBernardi Alle--size 53. Equipped with Veloce everything. I was fairly concerned about the bike being too stiff. (Believe it or not, the DB rides rougher than the C-Dale R600 caad4.) But it was a good fit. 600 miles later, and I'm right at home with her/him/it...can't decide on a personality for my bike yet.
PS - Bill, you said (a long time back) that one can become acclimated to a road bike that initially felt uncomfortable. This is proved correct. The DB doesn't "beat me up" at all. I've grown accustomed to the feel of the road underneathe me.
|In France, all bikes are female||MichaelC|
Jun 2, 2001 2:01 PM
|Well, that may not be true, but I recently read that one French slang term for a bike is "the little queen." I thought it was a great way to sum up this obsessive and demanding sport/pastime/etc.
By the way, I always deny that I talk to or have names for my bikes. My non-cyclist friends are joking when they mutter "straight jacket" or "Prozac." At least I think they're joking.
|Flip it on end--what's the most you want to pay?||blue bayou|
Jun 1, 2001 2:14 PM
|Consider buying a used bike from the board. (bored?) Have a number in mind, say 1k and compare what you get off the rack in the LBS or what someone is willing to part with. The difference in value can be huge. Back in the day I bought a Litespeed Classic w/ DA from a guy who hated it. (why?) I picked it up for $1800. That same ride, minus some miles, smelly bar tape and a cyclometer went for 3200 at the shop! I saw it as a 50% off sale. (I even got his Thompson seat post). ;)
Bottom line: Make a little chart of what you want on your rig, have the sizes worked out, the components you want, and start checking out the ads--you'll get twice the value used as new. It just takes more time and energy.