|Anyone here familiar with Gios frames?||bianchi boy|
May 21, 2001 9:52 PM
|I've been looking at the Gio Compact Pro frame sold by Excel Sports. The geometry is about right for me as I'm looking for a frame with top tube slightly shorter than the seat tube. The frame looks fantastic if you like classic steel lugged bikes, which I do. However, I am a little concerned because the geometry seems more extreme than usual -- short top tube and chain stays, steep seat tube angle. It's supposed to be a great climbing and cornering bike.
Anyway, I couldn't find any reviews of Gios frames or bikes in the review section. Is there anyone on the board who owns a Gios or has ridden one? I'd be interested to know your views on the handling, ride quality, etc. I am mostly interested in comfort and fit, but wouldn't mind some help on the hills, if a frame can really do that.
|Gios frame||Erik W|
May 21, 2001 10:25 PM
|A good friend has a Gios Megalite he bought from Excel. He has it built up with Ultegra and really likes it. I think their frames are an excellent deal and Excel is great to work with (I live in Boulder so it's nice to go in there and talk face to face with them). I had planned on getting a Gios frame myself but the fitting I had showed that the short top tube would've been less then ideal for me. I wound up going for a Ritchey frame which was 30% off at a showroom sale they had. I've checked out the quality of the Gios frames in person and think they are worthy of a serious look.|
|re: Anyone here familiar with Gios frames?||zelig1|
May 22, 2001 2:15 AM
|BB, I've owned a Gios Torino since 1975 and continue to follow their production. My model, after many variations, was essentially replaced by the Compact in the mid-80's. Originally made of Columbus SLX, I believe that they've used Dedacciai steel tubing for the last 5 years or so. The concept of the Compact Pro was to allow the position of the rear wheel to be moved, through a unique set of rear dropouts, thereby shortening or lengthening the effective chain stay length. The dropouts are replaceable and attached with three?? allen head bolts. |
The Compact was ridden for approximately 10 years by the Kelme professional team eventually replaced by Al and Ti Gios frames (all prior to Look sponsership). Buenahora managed a top 10 placing the a mid-90's TDF on a Compact Pro. As Kelme has been primarily a team of climbers, you could infer that they were satisfied but since they were sponsored, I wouldn't assume anything.
As for my Gios, it remains a favorite for its stability, cornering and descending. Much of this I attribute to its relatively low BB height of 26.0cm I'm not sure how the Compact Pro compares in this area but I doubt that Alfredo Gios has made any radical changes in his design philosophy. As for reviews, the Compact Pro was reviewed favorably in the States about 10 years ago although I can't remember the magazine (can't scan as it's in storage in the States). More recently, their Al model was reviewed, along with a Giant TCR, by Robert Millar in ProCycling. If you want a copy and can't find it, leave an email and I'll send you a scanned copy.
Hope this helps a bit.
|More questions||bianchi boy|
May 22, 2001 6:33 AM
|Thanks for the feedback. The Gios frames do seem like an incredible deal, and the quality of finish looks fantastic. I also like the adjustable dropouts because it seems like you could get the best of both worlds that way. |
Here's my other question. One of my reasons for getting a new bike is to get the proper stem/fork set up so my handlebars are higher. Ultimately I want to raise the bars about 1-1.5" below the saddle height, which means I need a stem long enough to raise the bars about 5-6" from the top tube. Several LBS folks have told me that -- with a threadless stem -- I shouldn't use more than 4 cm of spacers, which won't get me nearly high enough, even with a +17 stem. Others (including Excel) tell that I can use as many spacers as I want as long as my fork has a steel steerer tube -- in other words, I could use 5" of spacers if I wanted to. It seems like this might look kind of goofy, though that's not my primary consideration here.
If I go with a threaded (quill) stem & fork, it would be easier to raise the bars and the height would be somewhat adjustable. It also seems like the threaded fork/stem would look a lot cleaner since that's the way most bikes were set up a few years back, with the bars raised about even with the saddle. Wouldn't this make the most sense in my case, assuming I need a bike with higher handlebars? Am I missing something here?
|Yes and no||zelig1|
May 22, 2001 7:26 AM
|I see that you're still sorting out your handlebar height situation. The answer is yes, a threaded fork steerer and standard quill stem would be much more elegant than a threadless setup with a stack of spacers. If you get the steel Gios fork, the steerer is steel as well and you even with a threadless steerer, you can pile on the spacers as you see fit although it would look a bit silly, a conclusion you're already reached. Of course you could always go with a stem having more rise but they too look a bit out of place, regardless of their functionality. I will say that a threadless headset on a functional basis is simpler than one for a threaded steerer but at the end of the day, they both perform equally if properly setup. So for you, go with the threaded steerer and quill stem. |
|Yup, still sorting it out ...||bianchi boy|
May 22, 2001 10:07 AM
|I have concluded that to make my Bianchi fit right, I would need to buy a new fork, headset, stem and handlebar. Rather than invest in all that equipment, I am considering just buying a new bike with the correct setup from the start. I also would like to go back to a steel frame as my new Bianchi, although it rides nice for aluminum, is not nearly as comfortable as my old steel one. |
I also have been exploring the option of buying a custom fit frame and swapping the Ultegra components and wheels from my Bianchi to the new frame. However, by the time you factor in the costs for labor and new parts, it's actually cheaper to buy a whole new bike with steel frame, Campy Chorus 10-speed group, and all the components fit to match. Plus, I think it would be easier to sell my Bianchi as a complete bike than as a frame and leftover parts.
|consider a custom...||dave|
May 22, 2001 3:12 PM
|Your desire to place the bars very high could be solved with a custom-fit, sloping top tube frame. What you really need is a head tube length that is substantially longer than normally used on your frame size. A 90 degree threadless stem would also help, and wouldn't look weird.
If you get a stock frame, you'll want to buy the largest size that you can safely straddle (2cm clearance or less) to lower the saddle in relation to the head tube.
|Customs ...||bianchi boy|
May 22, 2001 9:28 PM
|Actually, just about all of the custom frame makers now offer an "extended head tube" as an option, so you get the benefit of a larger frame in front. If I bought a custom, I would definitely go that route. In my case, the sloping top tube is not ideal because it also lengthens the effective top tube -- which in my case is not a good thing. I need a relatively short top tube.
I am leaning against the custom, however, because I could buy a brand new quality Italian steel frame equipped with a full Campy Chorus 10-speed group and Mavic Open Pro wheels and other comparable equipment for about $2,000 or less. A custom would cost me at least $1,500 just for the frame, and then I still would have to buy more parts and pay someone to put it all together. It would end up costing me more because all I would have to sell (to offset the cost) would be the frame from my current bike. However, if I buy the new Italian, I could sell my entire bike for considerably more and offset about half the price of the new one. Plus, I really want those 10 speeds.
|the new Kristen?||geez|
May 23, 2001 12:25 AM
|just get something already for crying out loud!|| |