May 16, 2001 10:58 PM
|Do new steel frames always need their BB shells faced? Mine has paint on the drive side "face" and I suspect that a proper facing job would just remove the paint and a very minimal amount of metal. ?? Any suggesions....
not looking forward to giving my new frame to a shop "tech"!
May 17, 2001 3:12 AM
|Depends on the paint finish on the bike. If you can tighten up the BB without causing the finish to flake around the edges of the shell, and you can get it up to torque, I'd just do that - remember to check after a few miles for tension though. If not, or if you'd rather anyway, I would just very gently remove the paint down to the metal with a pad sander or similar, then put a little sealer on the bare face (just a rub round) to prevent and corrosion problems.
hope that helps.
May 17, 2001 6:19 AM
|Thanks, I had sort of settled on the paint removal alternative myself. I suspect this is all that is needed.
|Facing BB's||Calvin Jones-Park Tool|
May 17, 2001 7:29 AM
|Facing is useful in the bearing use the shell face for alignment. For the common Shimano cartridge, the bearing do not use the shell face, so facing is not important. However, the Dura-Ace, for example, secures the bearing cup against the shell face, and a warped or deformed face will effect bearing adjustment and wear. There are also other brands that use a lockring that butts against the face. |
I would not recommned simply sanding off the paint. Do a simple test. Install the bb properly. If it is smooth, it is fine. The Shimano cartridge type (non-Dura-Ace and non-XTR BB950) use bearings that reference the spindle and the cartridge unit. The frame is not needed at all for the bearing surface to turn square to one another.
Welding tends to deform and warp metal, steel, titanium or aluminum. Facing square the two shell faces. Removing the paint in not the critical issue.
May 17, 2001 7:38 AM
|Perhaps didn't make that clear - paint not a crucial issue, but can really mess up your frame finish if you tighten onto paint that flakes with the torque of tightening. Otherwise, so long as tightens to torque and stays that way, you should have no probs. If you are going to try to attempt to face the metal "square", you are on a loser unless you have a jig, IMHO.|
May 17, 2001 8:04 AM
|By the way, I think that the Park "Pro"-level Tool Kit that has started showing up in the catalogs is a pretty good deal. Interesting tool choices...headset press and crown race driver along with the hanger alignment tool. Someone is really thinking with this one. Good job!
No, I don't work for Park Tool.
May 17, 2001 6:20 PM
|Does the park BB facing tool thread into the BB shell?? The pic I saw doesn't look like it doesn't thread in. Looks a bit cheesy..... ??? I.e. if it doesn't thread into the BB then I don't buy the "normal" facing arguement. I don't mind spending some bucks IF I get something good. |
BTW, the steel bike has Italian threading and uses a Campy BB that has a "face" only on the drive side.
Still trying to keep this baby out of reach of some ham fisted hammerhead in a LBS.
|Park Tool Facing Tool||Calvin Jones-Park Tool|
May 18, 2001 6:48 AM
|Park Tool offers two facing options. The BTS-1 is a bottom bracket taps set with facing. The taps remain in place and act as a guide for the facer. |
The BFS-1 is a facing only tool. It uses threaded inserts to act as guides. The inserts come in ISO and Italian. This system assumes the bottom bracket is properly tapped. It is common for shells to warp after welding.
From the comments you make about the Campy bb, it sounds like it may be the older adjustable type? If so, facing is a good idea.