|Knee (?) pain||must_pedal_harder|
May 10, 2001 7:33 PM
|The first time I noticed this was when I went out for my first long ride on the new bike - a pain behind my knee; not quite the knee, more like a muscle behind it which hurts mostly when I straighten the leg.
I excused it at first, lowering my seat for the next ride. Well, two days ago I was out for about two hours or so with a buddy and the knee pain kicks in again and this time it's bigger.
Now you would tend to point at the new bike for this, but it's only in my right leg, plus I have adjusted my seat a few times to see what would work better.
It's not so bad that I can't function, but running I am a little slower, plus it's just a pain to have (no pun intended). I plan to see a doctor soon for this, amungst other problems (numbness in legs, right hip problems) - but does anyone have any idea what this could be? I'm only 16 and I'm breaking down - I "can't wait" till I actually get some age on my bones :/
|re: Knee (?) pain||coonass|
May 10, 2001 7:56 PM
"Neutral Knee Position
Next, put your bike in a stationary trainer, raising the front wheel to level the bike. Check your position with a video camera or mirrors in front and to the side, or with the help of a friend. Position your cleats with the ball of your foot directly over the pedal axle, and in line with any natural "toe-in" or "toe-out" foot position. Warm up by riding easily for 810 minutes.
Then, as you continue to look ahead, slowly stop pedaling, and bring the cranks to rest at horizontal, parallel to the ground. Check the position of your forward knee relative to the pedal spindle for a "neutral knee position," you'll be able to drop a plumb line from just below the front of the forward kneecap, and have it bisect the pedal spindle and ball of your foot below. Remember to not raise or drop your heel or hip as you check this. Then, move the saddle fore or aft, as needed, to achieve this neutral position.
The neutral knee position serves as a good starting point for most cyclists, though many adjust it from here: long distance (stage) racers and mountain bikers often move the saddle back by 1cm or more, for power, and sprinters may move it forward, "getting on top of the gear" for quick acceleration.
One more note on frame size and geometry: if you cannot move the saddle back far enough to get your knee to the neutral position, you should look for a frame with a more relaxed seat tube angle, or consider a slightly larger frame; if you have trouble moving the saddle forward enough, look for a steeper seat tube angle on your next frame, or consider a smaller frame. For most frames, a seat tube angle shallower by 1° moves the seat lug 1cm back, relative to the bottom bracket.
Finally, recheck your saddle height. If you've moved your saddle forward or back, you've effectively shortened or lengthened your saddle height, and will need to readjust."
If you go to their site, you will see a 'pic' (which didn't copy)
and other information regarding proper sizing...remember, these are 'guides' to proper fitting...your body will tell you which is most beneficial to you; but it is a 'start'.....Happy riding!