|shifting problems after new chain and cogset||Steve Davis|
Apr 10, 2001 2:01 PM
|I feel like a rookie with this one.
I replaced my cogset and chain this weekend on my Campy Chorus. Went from a 12-23 to a 13-23 (13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23) because I like the 18 and wasn't using the 12 a whole lot. At the same time, I changed from using the Campy 9 speed chain to a Rohloff 9 speed upon a recommendation from a rider I know.
Today, I rode the bike for the first time and it shifts horribly. It felt like I was constantly between gears. It hesitated on shifts up and down, and frequently skipped a cog or two at a time. No amount of tightening the cable barrels seemed to make any impact.
When I swapped the chain, I took out a few links so that it was the same length as the one I replaced. I lubed the chain and checked for stiff links.
What did I do wrong? Do you think the chain is not compatable or did I make an elementary mistake? Thanks for any help.
|re: shifting problems after new chain and cogset||grz mnky|
Apr 10, 2001 3:33 PM
|Sounds like your drivetrain is puking on your chain. I generally find that a particular system shifts best with the chain made by the same mfr. (even if it's vended). Haven't had great experiences with either SRAM or IRD in the Shimano MTB world. |
Was the replacement cog set also Campy? Any chance you can go back to the old chain and see if you can dial it in? Also, it might be worth your while to use a pair of calipers and compare the basic measurements - they may look the same width, but are they really?
|Sticky cables?||Kerrry Irons|
Apr 10, 2001 5:07 PM
|Assuming everything is put together properly (cogs not flipped in the cassette) and that the chain really works with the cassette, shifting that is slow in both directions often points to sticky cables or shifters. I have no data on the chain compatibility issue. Is it possible that some dirt on an exposed section of cable got pushed into the housing or that a housing or cable got bent as a result of messing around with the other changes? Could it just be that your shifting was going south anyway and the chain/cassette was not the problem? One way to check this is to shift the bike (on the work stand) and see if the derailleur lines up with the cassette cogs when the shift is complete. If the derailleur can be moved a bit (by hand) after the shift and that movement solves the noise problem, then lube the shift levers, derailleur pivots, and cables. Then look to see if the derailleur lines up with the cogs after the shift. If it lines up well after each shift but shifts poorly, I would finger the chain.|
Apr 10, 2001 6:53 PM
|could the chainrings be worn to the the point that they don't function well with the new chain/cassette and this causes poor shifting in the rear? if too worn, sometimes they all need to be replaced together.
very weird...while dreaming last night, i think i figured out what your alias "kerry irons" means.
|Found the problem||Steve Davis|
Apr 11, 2001 6:28 AM
|I was taking my bike off my roof rack last night and was able to get an eye-level look at the rear derailer. Can you believe I miss-thread the chain on the rollers?
When I was putting the bike together I had some "help" from my 8 year old son and evidently was not paying close enough attention. Anyway, I got the chain through the lower roller okay, but had the chain on top of the derailer "tab" near the upper roller so the chain never even hit the cogs of the upper roller.
Although the drivetrain was noisy, the bike shifted fine on the stand. I figured the noise was due to the chain being a different brand.
I rode 30 miles yesterday with this set up. It sounded awful, shifted worse and wasn't very good for my average speed. Oh well, it's fixed now.
|Dummy! I haven't done that since last week....||Retro|
Apr 11, 2001 8:34 AM
|Don't feel too bad...I did the same thing replacing a chain last week. I kept looking at it and listening to the noise and not seeing the problem. It took me a couple of tries before I said, "Oh, duh."|| |