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Advice on riding on a new road bike?(14 posts)

Advice on riding on a new road bike?Scary4u
Apr 6, 2001 5:11 PM
I am purchasing a 2000 Road bike tommrrow. How long will it take for me to get use to the new Road bike? Considering that I have been riding a old road bike. The new road bike has 9 speed, and Tiagra shifter and click shift ,with 27 drivetrain. Need advice on how long will it take for me to get use to the new Road bike. I will be doing 63 or 36 miles on it at a Rally, Need advice please.
re: Advice on riding on a new road bike?javelin
Apr 6, 2001 7:26 PM
Since you have been riding an older road bike, the biggest problem you probably have already overcome, getting used to the seat. Make sure you purchase your new bike at a reputable bike shop. Have your LBS fit you properly. It's important to get the right size frame, then have them adjust the seat and bars. Without knowing what type bike you are currently riding I'm going to assume it has the older friction shifting and possibly platform pedals. With a new bike the shifting will be right at your fingertips on the levers. This should not take long at all to get used to. The other issue might be the pedals. If you have never used clipless pedals they might take a few rides to feel comfortable with. Once you do get comfortable with them, you'll really start to see the advantages.

Best of luck
-jav-
Clipless PedalsMeDotOrg
Apr 6, 2001 7:34 PM
Went from an '83 Fuji to a '00 Bianchi Veloce last year. The biggest change was clipless pedals. It took me a couple of weeks (and, I'm embarassed to admit, one fall when I couldn't get out) to get used to them. Now it is automatic. But at first, you have to remind yourself to get ready to "dismount" each time you stop.

Indexed shifting becomes natural within the first few days. You'll love it, especially on hills.

Enjoy!
You only fell once?Kerry Irons
Apr 7, 2001 5:21 AM
Most people report 3-4 falls (at zero velocity) when they switch to clipless. I'd spent 20+ years on toe clips and had the "get out of the pedals" motion programmed into my muscle memory. Needless to say, "pull up and back" didn't work too well with clipless pedals! My wife spent the entire winter riding rollers with clipless pedals when she made the conversion, and she is the only person I know who never fell over at least once with clipless pedals. At the same time, I don't know anyone who was ever hurt in one of these falls - not much momentum to dissipate when you're not moving. Plenty embarassing though!
You only fell once?mike mcmahon
Apr 7, 2001 5:37 AM
I also spent considerable time with toe clips and straps. Like your wife, I managed to adjust to clipless pedals without falling. However, just yesterday, I almost fell over at a crowded intersection. I came to a stop and went to put my right foot down. The road sloped down on the right side more than I expected, so my foot had to go farther than planned. When I realized this, I overreaccted a bit and pushed down hard on my right foot when it hit the ground. This move almost catapulted me back over onto my left side. Fortunately, I was able to steady myself by leaning to the right. Otherwise, I'm certain I wouldn't have been able to clip out in time on the left side. Until yesterday, I felt pretty comfortable that after 18 years of road riding, I wasn't going to do the Artie Johnson at a crowded intersection.
Artie Johnson thingMel Erickson
Apr 7, 2001 7:40 AM
I did the Artie Johnson thing about 3 years ago between two cars at a crowded intersection, thankfully stopped at a red light. Mighty embarassing, and I had been riding clipless for a long time!
Yeah, but it was a doozyMeDotOrg
Apr 7, 2001 6:52 AM
I was using Shimano SPDs. I was riding along a bike path and started a conversation with another cyclist. I got so engrossed in the conversation I didn't notice we were getting ready to stop. When I fell over, I tried to catch myself with my arm. I jammed my shoulder so hard it hurt for weeks. The memory of that incident was a great incentive for remembering to unclip before stopping.

After that incident, I decided I needed the easiest pedals to disengage. I bought a pair of Speedplay Frogs, which are much easier to get out of than Shimanos.
re: Advice on riding on a new road bike?john de
Apr 6, 2001 10:12 PM
since it seems as if youve already bought the frame dont sweat the sizing (they make too much of a stink about it on this board)..if youve been riding for awhile at the same seat height with the old bike dont change it to much on the new bike...only move the seat up in increments from the position youve been riding if youve been riding alot in that position...you might want to forget what the bike store says about position because they are often wrong anyway..lots of times they look at you on it and sa "yea thats about right".., look on the web for advice or you can take my simple advice....inseam mulitiplied by 83.3 for the seat height and then for reach (stem) go with whatever is comfortable..make sure you are comfortable and not strained in the arms, shoulders and neck and it'll serve you well...good luck
You've got it!Kerry Irons
Apr 9, 2001 4:58 AM
That's right, every great rider who ever lived, and all their coaches are pretty fanatic about the importance of proper fit of the bicycle. Most old timers are too. Better to take john de's advice and "don't sweat the sizing". Close enough is close enough. Who cares if your body dimensions are not "standard" and should have special consideration. Here or there - so what. Rely on a single number formula that only considers inseam (and in this case would tell me to ride a 7300 cm seat height). Works for me. Oh, and remember: no capitalization or puncutation either. However, hidden in the post is good advice to set the new bike up like your old one, and then only make incremental changes.
Furthermore,mike mcmahon
Apr 7, 2001 5:41 AM
Read john de's posts. Laugh at john de's posts. Be annoyed by john de's posts. But this is the important part: Just don't do or even take seriously ANYTHING john de suggests in ANY of his posts.
id like a response ..pleasejohn de
Apr 7, 2001 10:34 AM
if you look at road bike races from years ago you will see that even at the professional level bike sizing has changed alot...i did omit in the last post that i think knee over the pedal spindle may be important but it seems that even that may not be true because there are lots ( i can give examples if you want) of variations from this rule of thumb...concidering that measureing the body parts without an x ray is very inacurate, and even the formulas they plug those numbers into vary, why concider it anything more than it really is...even formulas for setting something as seemingly clear as seat height vary extremely...tell me what else is there..as i see it there is reach and that is all..and this can be adjusted with different stem lengths, and dont tell me it screws up the weight distribution because i put a 9cm stem on mine and i like it just fine...seat height, reach, and what else is there angles? they just make the bike handle differently,and there is no patent on proper handling bikes...steeper angles and tighter wheel base make it more snappy. ...ill bet you that even at pro level (which is a good indicator because of the amount of miles put in will reveal problems in postion) there is alot of variation amongst themselves...the only proven formula that i know of involves performance and thats that the higher seat postions give more power..im amazed at the amount of people who go to some shmoo at a fancy bike store who supposedly measures them, take their dough and then tells them what they need..you can only get a general guideline and if they claim it as anything more its bunk...if any of them account for comfort in they're equations (which isnt too much to ask and which also isnt going to be figured out on one of their fancy instore machines)then it really isnt a formula is it...just to make it clear, yes bike fit is extremely important, but its no science..infact i think those bike sizing kits probably do more damage than help since they leave you without an further understanding and often make you think you must conform to what they say
A response to what?Kerry Irons
Apr 8, 2001 4:31 PM
A response to "I think, it seems, as I see it, don't tell me, I'll bet, I think"? (Note that capitalization and punctuation were added). So you changed your stem and your bike handles fine. Can everybody do the same? How would you know. It's no science? How would you know. Yes, all of the formulas and rules of thumb only give you starting points, but that doesn't mean that you can start way off those points and still get good fit, comfort, and handling. People vary a lot, one to another, both in their absolute and relative dimensions, in their flexibility, and in what makes them comfortable. However, using PROVEN procedures and estimations, you can size a bike properly, and then make fine adjustments after that. You can't start with the wrong size bike and dial it in. The GT bikes come with stem and seat post options that allow you to accomplish what requires frame size changes on other bikes, and don't bet the rent that this concept will last - it is harder to fit a "weird" body with only three frame sizes. GT is saving money with their approach, and ignoring people at the ends of the body dimension spectrum. If you look at a lot of bike frames, you will see very different top tube/seat tube ratios, both to accommodate the different body types out there, and to accomplish different handling goals. Just because you can fit two people on a crit bike or a touring bike doesn't mean that you've succeeded - they may have wanted opposite performance to what they got. Until you've ridden lots of bikes with different design philospies, don't be so glib about what it takes to get a good fit! And would you PLEASE stop with the run on sentences, no punctuation, no capitals, no spaces, etc? Your ideas are hard enough to decipher without making them hard to read on top of it!
dont assumejohn de
Apr 8, 2001 4:57 PM
you say "until youve ridden lots of bikes with different design philospies, dont be so glig about what it takes to get a good fit"..ive had a 61cm, 53cm, 54 trek, and a 50..i rode them many a mile and was a happy rider...giant also makes a bike in small, medium, and large...did you see it in the tour de france..lots of bike companies only make them in two cm increments...do you think the pro riders who ride them chose the geometry...ill bet there are alot of folks who can be happy with even three sizes..i wouldnt buy one but ill bet alot of folks are happy....if you took a cm or two of the top tube or added one or two to the seat tube i would be fine...it would be a different handling bike but i wouldnt say it doesnt fit me... if someone cant figure out the basics of fiting a bike with all the info out there then maybe they do need a fit professional
John DECampbell
Apr 8, 2001 6:24 AM
Since when have you become an expert on bikes.Why I remember your previous post and you would ask all these stupid questions such as:Should I take the nipples off the tires so the bike would be areo and lighter and many more questions like that.I bet you have a bike with a horn and one of those tall polls with a flag on it.And I would bet that your bike has a JOHN DE PAINT JOB,you probally used a 5 inch paint brush and used latex house paint.And I know you have a siren on your bike!One more thing,do you have the high rise handlebars with the streamers? don't bother to answer.