|Painting a frame||jack daniels|
Apr 3, 2001 6:50 AM
|Anyone get good results painting a frame with just spray cans? I have an older fram that needs a paint job bad. I am planing to sand blast it this weekend and paint it. What colors are good to hide mistakes? Thank you for your help.
|re: Painting a frame||LOL!|
Apr 3, 2001 7:04 AM
|gotten good results by just sanding, primering, and using car paint from auto parts store. flat colors better, darker seems to hide boo boos (not white), you'll need to clear coat pearls and metallics. mask well|
Apr 3, 2001 8:04 AM
|Got this method from a professional painter in the area. It's time consumming but the results are spectacular.
1.Strip or sandblast.I have a good sandblaster near me with a light touch. Others have not been so lucky. I hate dealing with messy strippers that don't work. Wash with thinner and light prime. I have my blaster do this so the raw steel is not exposed to moisture very long.
2. Use a fine file to remove any high spots from chips, welds etc.
3. Hang the frame by putting a 12" dowel through the headtube. Tie a rope to the ends of the dowel so the headtube is just above eye level. Do this outside, in direct sunlight. Don't worry, lacquer dries fast. Spray a light coat [about 1/3 of an 11oz. can] of lacquer primer-filler. Get all the nooks and crannies first, then spin the frame 180 and get the spots you missed.
4. Wet sand with slightly soapy water and 320 grit Wetordry paper from 3M. This will show all the high spots. Be careful around edges. Don't sand through too much, but
some steel will show at this stage. Fill low spots with Glazing putty [Small spots and scratches only]. Sand putty spots with 320.
5. Spray three coats of dark colored primer. This will take one full can.
6. Wet sand with 400 grit. Watch the edges, don't sand through there. You may sand through some remaining high spots- it's OK, you're trying to level everything out, and you do that by sanding off the high spots and leaving primer in the low spots. 7. Three coats light gray primer.
8. Wet sand with 400 grit. Do not rub through anywhere. You will start to see the dark primer show through. That is your cue to stop sanding that spot. Don't miss it. You are trying to get to a satiny finish at this stage. There should be no sign of chips dings or low spots. If you see any imperfections at this point, BACK UP to step 7 and redo those areas. The quality of the paint job is being determined right now, so take your time.
Step 9. Hang the frame and shoot 3 more coats of the light primer-filler. Wet sand this time with 600 grit. The surface should look like frosted glass. No imperfections
should be visible. I like to wet sand with the frame in my lap [old jeans] and the sun over my shoulder. Sand a little, wipe with a soft rag, and watch the surface as it
dries. You will be able to see imperfections jus when the surface is half dry. It helps to be at least part German at this point.
10. Time to paint. You'll need three 11 oz. cans of lacquer for the frame, More for accessories. Hang the frame by cutting a 2" piece of wire coat hanger and bend one end in a 'J'. Stick this in the seattube, and bend the other end over your hanging dowel. The frame will hang just about level. this will ensure you get plenty of paint where you need it, but it makes it harder to get to the nooks. Shoot three light coats of color. This should just about cover the primer. No runs or sags at this stage, please.
11. Light wet sand with 600 grit. A little rub through to the primer is OK, because you are going to shoot
12. Three more coats of color.
14. Two tone? Now is the time to mask off and shoot three coats of the second color. 3M Fineline plastic tape will give you a sharp edge, but it doesn't bend. You'll have to use regular masking tape for curves.
16. Wet sand with 1000 grit. Things should be looking good now, don't rub through!
17. Wet sand with 1500 grit.
18. Polish with No. 7 Polishing Compound. Use lots of water, this is not a wax and you're not to the final finish yet. A few streak sand smears are OK.
19. Apply any decals and pinstriping now. Give them time to set up before you
20. Wax. I like Meguiars. Use something with low or no abrasives. I do not use clearcoats, I think they look fake and plastic-y, but if you must, clearcoat before polishing.
21. Shoot the inside of all the frame tubes with J.P. Weigle's Framesaver rustproofer.
22. Clean up the mess the F
|overkill for a beater||nm|
Apr 3, 2001 8:09 AM
|Great tips||Dave Hickey|
Apr 3, 2001 11:25 AM
|Great tips Fuzzybunnies. The only thing I would add is to allow time for paint to dry between coats. Lacquer dries from the outside in so the surface might appear dry but the paint underneath is still soft.|
|Lacquer in spray cans||Spoke Wrench|
Apr 3, 2001 3:10 PM
|Any tips on finding lacquer in spray cans. I've spray painted several frames using spray cans, but the only time I was really satisfied with the result was the time I was able to find spray lacquer.
One other tip I might add is: a tube has four sides. I spray each main tube from each of four sides. That way you get good coverage without causing runs.
|Lacquer in spray cans||fuzzybunnies|
Apr 3, 2001 6:42 PM
|I've found lacquer at home depot, thought this method will work with spray enamel which can be gotten at an auto parts store. TTFN|
|Lacquer in spray cans||Dave Hickey|
Apr 4, 2001 2:51 AM
|Try True Value hardware stores. They sell Lacquer. The colors are limited to red,black,or white. I've also seen Walmart selling Lacquer in white or black. In both cases its mixed in with their other spray paint.|
|I just un-did such a paint job ...||Humma Hah|
Apr 3, 2001 6:22 PM
|A couple of decades ago, I repainted the cruiser with a couple of spray-cans of DupliColor. I did prime the bare spots and roughen what was left of the original paint with fine carbide paper. I painted it a nice silver color. It was really handsome when I was done, although I did lose all the decals. |
The original paint had gotten badly worn away on the top tube, where my leg tended to rub (I often had mud on my pants legs when it rained). Also, several other spots had chronic scrapes from things like bike stands.
By the end of the year, the new paint job looked as bad as the original. DupliColor lacquer is easy to use but not the toughest thing available. An epoxy or urethane is probably better, but requires mixing, prompt use, and spray equipment to do properly. And a clearcoat is a good idea for durability or to protect decals.