RoadBikeReview.com's Forum Archives - Fixed Gear
Ok, need decal advice...(19 posts)
|Ok, need decal advice...||SenorPedro|
Nov 18, 2003 10:18 PM
|So here is the trek, smoothed out a bit by having some of its superfluous braze-ons removed. I am considering leaving it in the grey primer colour as it is not too flashy.
I am thinking of having a sign shop make some vinyl decals to put on the downtube. It reads Petros in greek characters, which means rock and also is my name in greek. The picture shows a printed mock up of what I am going for, but I can not decide whether to go for the classic panel look as pictured or black lettering in the same format without the panel.
|I like panels and the primer grey...||PdxMark|
Nov 18, 2003 11:08 PM
|I think panels have a crisp, classic look. I have a 2003 Bianchi Pista. At first, I wasn't very excited about its primer grey color, but now I think it's a perfect color for a fixed gear (or SS) bike. Simple, functional, utility.|
|I like panels and the primer grey a lot! nm||dzrider|
Nov 19, 2003 6:26 AM
|re: Ok, need decal advice...||pauly|
Nov 19, 2003 4:40 AM
|I think it looks really nice just like that. (Except that weird flower looking thing blooming out of your rear hub.)|
|re: Ok, need decal advice...||DCDREW|
Nov 19, 2003 7:19 AM
|Did you paint it yourself? I want to paint my bike, but don't want to take it to a shop to paint...
I've heard home paint jobs on bikes are dubious.
Nov 19, 2003 9:01 AM
|Its a homebrew paintjob. They are not neccessarily dubious if you approach the task with the right expectations and do good prep work. I have had fabulous results before - it just requires patience; and darker as well as flat or satin colors provide much better results.|
Nov 20, 2003 7:26 AM
|So, sand it down to bare steel, prime several times, a couple coats of paint, and clear-coat it?|
Nov 20, 2003 9:12 AM
|You don't neccessarily have to sand the whole thing down to bare steel. I only did on places where I hacked off a braze-on or there was rust. I think that a factory paint makes a good basecoat for something else. Just make sure that you have a smooth transition from paint to bare metal by sanding with various grades of sandpaper. Also, sand the entire surface of the frame lighlty to give a little texture for the paint to hold onto.
Before your first coat, wipe the frame down with a tackcloth or something to remove the dust. If you have an old seatpost that fits, put it in the frame so you can have something to hold onto without touching the paint. Then wipe the whole frame down with some rubbing alcohol to remove any of the oil that may have been left by your hands.
Then spray away. In between every 2 or so coats you can hit the surface with a little steel wool and then the tack cloth again. The secret to a good paint job is good prep work and good paint. If you buy 99 cent spray paint it will turn out crappy. Use something quality like krylon, and then maybe even a rust-proofer primer for extra insurance.
Let us know how it goes.
Nov 20, 2003 9:24 AM
|Thanks man, couple more things.
Can i do it by simply taking the wheels and chain off then taping and using plastic bags to cover the bars and cranks?
And did you paint the joint of the steerer tube and fork?
Did you paint the dropouts?
Nov 20, 2003 1:23 PM
|You could do that if you wanted to - it might cause you to have less than desirable results due to poor paint coverage. It shouldn't be too hard to pull off your cranks and your stem/bar combo.
Take as much stuff of as you can, that way you can get to all the nooks and crannies with less problems.
On my bike I took off everything except the headset cups, which I masked off because I don't have the tool to pop them out. You wouldn't really need to take out the b.b. if you didn't want to - I just needed a new one anyway so it was good timing.
If you have a threaded headseat, it is easy to take apart, just undo the top nut and everything else will unscrew and slide out. Then you can paint the fork seperately and get better results, it is a good idea to pop off the bearing race which sits on top of the fork crown also.
As far as the joint of the steerer tube and fork, I am a little confused. I painted everything. Just like it would have come from the factory. If you have stainless dropouts or chromed stays you may want to mask them off to keep the look, otherwise paint it all.
You just got to figure out what you want out of it. If you just mask all the parts off, then you will have a paint job you may be dissappointed with. Maybe you just want to make it unattractive to theft. Whatever you do, keep in mind that if it is going to be good, then it will be harder.
Good luck and give us some pics.
|My vote...leave as pictured! nm||msmootsiemartin|
Nov 19, 2003 7:19 AM
|It "rocks" just as it is!!...||soulFixed|
Nov 19, 2003 8:03 AM
|I've been enjoying the posts of your project's progress. It's encouraging me to do the same - removal of the extraneous stuff - from my newly fixed ~'80's Univega. BTW - the color and panel combo look great!
Nov 19, 2003 2:47 PM
|a panel would be cool on the seat tube too, but whatever|
|panels = good / cool... just like the old bontys.. here a pic...||gspot|
Nov 19, 2003 3:34 PM
|1. bonty = good
2. panels= good, because of #1.
in conclusion, panels = good, because of the previous two statements
|re: Ok, need decal advice...||Fix-ated|
Nov 19, 2003 10:30 PM
|Can you take off the cable guides before finalizing?|
|I don't know...||SenorPedro|
Nov 20, 2003 9:01 AM
|I was thinking about it, but I am pretty sure I am going to mount both brakes at one time or another and the guides would just look a lot cleaner.
I am utterly hopeless as far as decisions go. You really think I should?
Nov 20, 2003 11:05 AM
Nov 20, 2003 11:08 AM
|re: Ok, need decal advice...||Blue Crown Jewel|
Dec 2, 2003 9:02 AM
|Well, I think it looks fantastic, except that I would recommend that the last "s" in your name be a final-type of "s", which is identical to the english counterpart. The "s" you have used is the version one would use in the middle of a word and is "sigma".|| |