|My new '04 Fuji Track...||jtferraro|
Sep 29, 2003 6:31 PM
|Here it is! Just picked it up tonight and therefore haven't ridden it yet. I haven't even made any adjustments yet. The seat will have to come down a bit I'll also have to adjust the saddle fore/aft and stem height. So far I've just removed the "Made in Taiwan" sticker from the headtube, "Warning about lack of brakes for road use" sticker on the downtube and the "56cm" sticker from the seat tube. I've also removed the wheel reflectors. Next, I'm planning on removing the clips & straps from the pedals. I then will probably install a Tiagra front brake caliper w/a regular road brake lever and have a "hood" installed for the other side. The shop owner told me that Dia-Compe makes a "dummy" brake hood (w/o lever). I may just go w/that dummy brake hood and a Dia-Compe road lever on the other side. These bars don't look as conducive to mounting road levers, though, as the bend in be bars is more gradual. Any experiences, recommendations, suggestions welcome. I'm also planning to mount an inexpensive wired computer (Cat-Eye Mity 3?) and a nice stainless steel water bottle cage. Once I get used to riding fixed, it will be time to mount some cheap SPD's (Shimano M515's or Nashbar's $20 ones).
SS-NYC, lemme know if you want some more pics. BTW, it is drilled for a rear brake, too (although the rear brake hole almost looks a bit too large in diameter). Nonetheless, that "Warning" sticker recommended installing both front and rear.
|Other plans and a few more questions...||jtferraro|
Sep 29, 2003 7:35 PM
|I'm would I be able to install a quick release for the front hub? It would be convenient to remove the front wheel quickly (for mounting to the car or for changing flats). Either way, since the rear can't be set up w/a quick release, I guess I'll now have to start carrying the necessary wrenches for removing the rear wheel. Are there any mini tools that contain these types of wrenches or will I need to just carry the regular "Craftmen-style" wrenches? Re: gearing. It came w/a 48 tooth chainring and 16 tooth cog. This sounds a bit tough, but I'm not sure. What is the most common gearing for fixed gears, 42 x 16? I know it depends a lot on any number of factors but I'm just trying to get an idea.
|ss-nyc - I just read about your accident! glad you're ok. (nm)||jtferraro|
Sep 29, 2003 8:47 PM
|Yeah, I am fine and...||ss-nyc|
Sep 30, 2003 4:23 AM
|Bystanders were amazed I walked away without even a scratch. They thought I was going to be really hurt but I was wearing my helmet and at the last moment I sort of saw it coming so I prepared and "rolled" onto the hood and tried to protect myself as much as possible. I just had my LBS order a cheap chrome replacement fork for $25 so I should have me street bike back on Friday. I am also putting on a new front brake!
As for your Fuji...Nice!
No need for more pictures since I have seen the '03 and now see the new color on your bike. The rear brake is what I really wanted to know about and also let me kow if you think you can get a bigger than 700x23 onthe bike. It seems the front has clearance but the rear is tight.
As for QR skewers. If the front hub has a standard 9mm axle with standard threading you should be able to swap the solid axle for a hollow axle and QR skewer. I think this should cost about $25 for parts at labor at a shop. Just keep the solid axle in case you ever want to change it back if you ever sell the bike!
You can use a QR skewer in the rear but most people would advise against it due to axle slippage. Surly has a new chain tug http://www.surlybikes.com/parts/tuggnut.htm that can be used with a QR skewer on the rear. I am not sure if it fits all bikes but it might be worth a try. It was really made for MTB single-speeders that wanted to use wheels that already had QR skewers but it may be what you want. I have never used chain tugs but have been told they are really nice for dealing with a rear wheel after a tire change. You do not have to mess around with placement of the wheel since the chain tugs will help put the wheel right back where it was.
Anyway, enjoy the ride and give a full ride report once you have put some miles on it.
|Man...you are lucky - way to prepare for the accident!!||jtferraro|
Sep 30, 2003 9:00 PM
|Are you putting on a new front brake b/c the one you had on didn't perform satisfactory? What kind have you decided to install?
I checked out that chainstay clearance again and it looks like you'd be able to fit the next tire size up in there. Don't quote me on that, though. I can take pictures for you.
Thanks for the info on quick-releases. I don't think I'm going to bother right now (wanna just start riding!) but am considering it in the future (we'll see how annoying NOT having QR's becomes!).
|New Front brake...||ss-nyc|
Oct 1, 2003 4:58 AM
|The probelm is that this is an older bike that uses nutted brakes which means I am stuck with single pivot brakes that have really long reach. The only one that works is shown below.
After I got the frame I needed to find a fork that fit better so I went to Recycle-A-Bicycle which is a place in NYC that refurbishes old frames and sells them. They also provide community service and jobs to homeless people. They installed a fork and a front brake. They used an older brake with older pads that were both probably past thier prime. I should have just made them install a new brake with new pads.
Anyway, you add everything up and NYC traffic and you get me running into a car. I have had accidents before with a blown tire or loose gravel but this is the first time I have ended up on the hood of a car. I was not hurt but I am still a bit shaken up since it could have been much worse.
Needless to say I will continue to always wear my helmet, I am going to alway use 2 brakes even on a fixie, and I am only going to bike shops that I know and have a relationship with. I cannot blame RAB but no need to go back!
Aside from my story...ENJOY the fuji!
Sep 30, 2003 6:58 AM
|Enjoy the new toy, I've been loving my '03 model. I also took off the M.I.T. and the 56 cm sticker. I'd like to de-brand the whole thing, but I'd rather ride. I carry a Craftsman 15mm open/box when I ride.
Try the gearing out, I found it harsh at first but now I'm used to it. I live and ride in northern NJ which is pretty hilly.
Before my 3rd ride, I swapped the pedals for some Time ATACS. I also have a Cat-eye Astrale, cowhorns, an Ultegra front brake & a diacomp lever all waiting to be installed - they may keep on waiting the way things have been going.
Good luck w/your new machine.
Sep 30, 2003 7:26 AM
|OK, I'll add that Craftsman 15mm open/box to my arsenal. Northern NJ should be similar to CT, so I'll let the gearing be, for now. Do you run a different size cog on the other side of the hub or a freewheel (or neither)?
Sep 30, 2003 10:37 AM
|Neither. No brakes yet, so a freewheel wouldn't work for me. I have wondered about slapping a larger cog over on the other side, but if it was large enough to make a real difference climbing, I figure I'd have chain length issues. I could be wrong though (it happens often).|
|A larger cog should bring the rear axle closer to the BB,no? nm||jtferraro|
Sep 30, 2003 10:43 AM
Sep 30, 2003 10:59 AM
|I meant chain length issues in that I'd need more chain to keep the rear wheel from hitting the frame.
I'm assuming that when you run 2 cog sizes, you set up the chain length w/the larger cog & use the xtra space in the dropouts for when you flip the wheel for the smaller cog.
For me, the bottom line is that I'm on the lazy side (remember, I have new parts sitting on the shelf because I haven't found the time to install them yet). Plus, one of the reasons I bought this bike was to torture myself to exhaustion without spending 5+ hours in the saddle. To that end, the 48/16 is working out just fine.
Sep 30, 2003 11:43 AM
|This seems to be one of the most difficult decisions becasue it is so personal. I would really like to use a 42x16 or 42x17 which seems to be the "norm" on many road-fixed conversions as an all around good gear.
My only problem is that if my fixie is supposed to be my shorter distance road bike am I really going to get stronger using one of those gear options? If I use a 46x16 or 48x16 common on the Bianchi, KHS, and Fuji am I going to end up with knee pain?
What to do, what to do,...
Sep 30, 2003 2:19 PM
|For me it was a no-brainer. Being lazy I use what it came with and don't give it a 2nd thought. Like an old drag racing buddy of mine used to say: "you run what you brung".
Like gearing, pain is a very subjective thing but what little knee pain I've experienced I blame on long & steep descents where controlling one's speed is an absolute imperative. You are familiar w/the area: I'm referring to Main St./Ft. Lee Rd. on my commute home from NYC. For those of you that aren't it's a long, steep hill in a very busy area: lots of lights & traffic. It's like Darwinism for the fixed gear rider.
In terms of climbing, I find the 48/16 is fine on hills where attack is a reasonable strategy. It's OK too on longer hills of a similar grade. Add a few really steep sections to those longer hills and I'm not happy, but dealing with it. I don't know what would happen on really steep hills of over a mile where you'd just grind away on a geared bike, because I haven't tried any of those on the fixed gear (like Skyline Drive going from Oakland to Ringwood). Yet.
PS - congrats on surviving your accident - I'm glad you are OK & the damage was limited to your bike.
|More Pics...& brake idea!||Grizfan|
Oct 1, 2003 2:29 PM
|Gawd!!! That looks so nice. Would love for you to post a few more pics. As for a brake I listed a pic of my bike. I run a tektro cyclocross lever,very comfortable position.|
|More Pics...& brake idea!||ROOFLE|
Oct 1, 2003 8:46 PM
|oh wow, thats purty.|| |