|Adjustments to "fix" an older frame||Nug|
Jun 30, 2003 2:04 PM
|I've been looking into setting up a fixed/SS ride and picked up an 80's (best guess) vintage Schwinn Sprint this weekend. Lugged steel, fits, pretty much horizontal dropouts, should do the job. The steel wheels are in rough shape (rusty) although true. I think I'd rather go to 700c wheels to have more options for tires, etc. Looks like I'd have to widen the fork to fit a "modern" hub width (1 cm or so). Any advice on doing this without damaging anything, or can a steel fork handle this easily? Thoughts/advice/reasons to stick with 27" wheels? Any info on this model Schwinn (its a cheaper made in China for Schwinn type, but the lugwork looks pretty decent)? Thanks for any help.|
|re: Adjustments to "fix" an older frame||Lone Gunman|
Jun 30, 2003 6:50 PM
|I swapped 27" for 700 on my fixed Schwinn. Cold spreading the front and or rear is no problem, it won't damage it. The only problem yu might encounter is brake pads reaching the rim on the swap. You might rebuild the front hub if it is any good, cut it out of the rim, buy a Suzue basic track hub, buy 2 new Mavic or Sun 700 rims and get the rims and hubs laced. Try putting a 700 rim in the front fork to see if the brakes reach and an older rear 700 wheel (126mm spaced) for the rear before putting any more money into the project. Quality 27" rims are very difficult to find, on my retro rebuild, I bought rims from a guy in Scotland, 32 hole 27" Wolber Alpine rims.|
|re: Adjustments to "fix" an older frame||OverStuffed|
Jun 30, 2003 6:57 PM
|I stuck with my 27" wheels only because I had a fondness for my old 12 speed. Once the components on it were beyond the amount of work I wanted to do, I ditched 'em, and bought a new 27" wheel. I don't recommend it, because you sound worried about tire choices. I'm happy with the choices I've found so far, though. As far as the fork, I don't know much about forks, except last time I overhauled the front hub, the LBS gave me the recommended cones, but they added 2mm to the hub width. My steel Raleigh fork has accepted the wider hub without difficulty so far. Also, make sure you're measuring the hub with from the outside of the locknuts, and not the end of the axle. That's about 1 cm difference. Good luck.|
|older Schwinn frame||Tig|
Jun 30, 2003 6:59 PM
|I'd forget the steel wheels and go with lighter, less corrosive alloy 700's. Steel wheels are also difficult to true. There are many more tire choices with 700's too. I don't think you'll have to widen the fork though. Front hubs haven't changed that much. I still have a late 70's 27" front wheel since I was lucky enough to get it (old Campy record hub) with the frame. It fits in my '99 carbon fork quite well and I didn't need a long reach brake caliper.
As for the Schwinn, I'll need to see a picture of it to know where it was made. If it was after about 1989 (maybe earlier) it was made in China. I worked at a Schwinn shop back around '92 and work at it again now.
|older Schwinn frame||Nug|
Jun 30, 2003 7:18 PM
|Thanks for the replies. I had tried to put a 700c wheel with a 105 hub on it earlier today to check out the brake reach situation and the fork was quite narrow. Didn't want to crank it in there (and scratch up my good wheel) before I asked about spreading the fork. Does cold spreading mean what it sounds like (just crank it apart) or is there some particular technique involved? I know the frame was made in China (sticker still says so)- I was wondering if anyone was familiar with particulars of this model (Schwinn sites were no help- it's no classic). It's bright blue with yellow and red stickers.|
|Got one like this||LC|
Jul 1, 2003 10:06 AM
|I think I may have built a frame up just like this. Does it have a rear drop out without the bolt hole for a modern rear derailuer?
For wheels it is very nice to have lighter weight of alloy and safer for braking too. What I did for an old frame like that was just replace the fork with a modern fork since 1 inch threaded forks are dirt cheap. This also solves the problem with the front brake that will not reach without trying to find a drop bolt or long reach calipers which still may not be enough.
The rear should spread with no problem to handle a modern hub. A long reach older single pivot brake in the rear should work fine if you got a good dual pivot brake on the front.
|Got one like this||Nug|
Jul 2, 2003 6:56 PM
|The drop out has no bolt hole, as you said. Further searching leads me to believe it's a 1988 model. As a temporary measure, I may pick up another oldie (an Araya) with much nicer wheels and hubs I saw today, and use those. Thanks for the ideas.|| |