|Track/Fixed Bike Fit||ss-nyc|
May 23, 2003 10:33 AM
|A general fit question:
Does your track bike (or fixed road bike) size/setup come close to your road bike setup?
Do you use the same size, a size smaller, or a size larger frame?
I am not going to use it on the track but rather as a winter trainer and fun bike. My geared Fuji is a 52cm (c-t) seattube, 53cm (c-c) top tube, and have a 100mm stem with no rise.
I was looking at the 52cm Fuji Track and the geometry is almost identical to the road bike...same angles, same seat tube, although the top tube is 1cm longer which can be fixed with a 90cm stem. Anyway, the shop said I should get a 49 since according to them "you always want a track bike one size smaller than your road bike". They really could not give me a good reason except that that is what is "standard practice".
This seems silly since I will need a longer stem and have to push the saddle back to get the proper fit. Does this make sense to anyone?
All opinions welcomed!
|Standover height??||Dave Hickey|
May 23, 2003 11:24 AM
|I'm not familar with the Fuji geometry but track frames sometimes have a higher bottom bracket. Check the standover clearance if you're tight on your road frame. Again, I'm not sure if Fuji track frames have a higher BB or not. If it does, this is part of the reason the LBS is telling you to get the next smaller size|
|Same as my road bike...||ss-nyc|
May 23, 2003 11:44 AM
|I stood over and tested the 49 and 52. The 52cm Track has the same standover as my 52cm road bike and the 49 Track has more standover room than my road bike. The Fuji Track bike is known for having the most "road like" geometry of all off-the-shelf track bikes.
This is why I was confused. If the geometry is almost identical to my road bike and the standover is almost identical than why would they tell me the it is "standard practice to get a track bike one size smaller".
I know that you want a cross bike one size smaller for clearance issues but this should not pertain to track bikes. I just think that I was getting a line and they really did not know but were telling me what they had heard.
|re: Track/Fixed Bike Fit||desmo|
May 23, 2003 11:58 AM
|They may be suggesting the smaller frame because, one: the higher BB of track frames provides less standover than a road frame of the same dimensions, and two: track racers are basically sprinters that want the stiffest and most compact frame they can possibly fit. For a road going fixie I would ignore both reasons and buy a frame that had the best top-tube length (standover be damned). If you go too small, and need an acre of seat post showing you may end up with a mess of spacers on the stem to compinsate. Or too low a bar postiton to be comfortable. I would also choose a top tube that would allow for a 110 or 120 stem as track frame geometry is already on the fast side for steering and a 90 may enhance this even more (although I think the Fuji entry level track frames are pretty much road geometry and may not matter in that case).|
|For a non-racing bike? Not really ...||Humma Hah|
May 23, 2003 12:05 PM
|... Most of the considerations for comfort on a road fixie are about the same as for a geared roadie.
One significant exception: on a gearie or SS, you can coast thru tight corners with the inside pedal UP to get more ground clearance. On a fixie, that pedal might be DOWN at the apex of the turn, risking a ground strike. Thus, fixies need either a little higher BB (which a purpose-built bike might have) or a little shorter cranks (165 mm are a common track crank size).
If you run the short cranks, you might find yourself jacking up the seat by about the same distance the cranks are short. If you're used to riding 175's, with 165's you'd jack the seat up 1 cm to get your usual leg extension. Big deal. That might affect your choice of frame size by 1 cm, but probably LARGER, not smaller.
For a racing track bike, one might err a little small on the frame to save an ounce or two, realizing that fit issues on a bike that is ridden in a racing position for a couple of minutes at a time are not the same as for a century bike.
Climbing on a fixie: you might find yourself doing a standing max-effort climb on occasion, using the bar tops and pulling up on 'em like a weightlifter. This might argue for a little higher stem. The slightly less aero position would not be the best for racing, but for a road-geared fixie you will probably not exactly be doing a TT pace all day anyway. Again, this would argue for a little larger frame, not smaller.
Standover clearance should be pretty close to the same on either a fixie or gearie. If the track-intended fixie had a high BB, the BB-TT distance might need to be shortened slightly to maintain standover. I would expect, in that case, for the TT length to be in keeping with the standover clearance.