Dec 11, 2002 12:50 PM
|OK, I am ready to start my winter fixed gear project.
I should be receiving my mid 80's Fuji Club in the mail any day now. It is coming to me as a complete 105 7speed bike. Unfortunately, the original Suntour components were replaced. I think the original crank would have been great.
My roval 700c rear wheel is in the process of getting a solid axle to replace the hollow one. I have already removed the dish to line up the gears.
I plan on using the 105 crank with the stock 42 ring and a 17 rear. I most likely will go ahead and use both the front and rear calipers, at least for now. I am undecided about the levers at the moment. I saw a picture here on the board of a fixie with mtb levers, so at a profile, the bike appeared to have no levers. It looked very clean. I may try both ways and decide on my test rides.
Here is a picture of the Fuji in its current state. Nice red paint, classic fork crown, even a touch of chrome.
I am still wishing/searching for a mid 80s Pinerello or Merckx to convert. I had them both back in the day but opted to go for the state of the art aluminum rides that were so much lighter (if I could turn back time.).
If you have any suggestions, please let me know.
|Looks like a great bike to convert.........||Dave Hickey|
Dec 11, 2002 1:59 PM
|Please post pictures when it's converted.|
Dec 11, 2002 2:45 PM
|42 X 17 is a good choice. When I converted my old Bianchi to a fixed, that was what the owner of one of my LBS's told me to go with. I thought it was too low. I was wrong. It works out quite well, especially if you don't have table-top flat roads to ride on. Even so, I was able to complete a century at 18+ mph on a flat route with that combo, so it is quite versatile. Good luck. As Dave said, let us see the completed bike!|
Dec 11, 2002 5:22 PM
|I'd want to keep it like it is as much as possible. I agree with you on the loss of the Suntour cranks. I hope the Roval rear wheel you have is more durable than the ones I used to own (it sounds like it is different). They were among the first radial/1-cross drive side, light weight aero rear wheels available years back. I busted spokes every 2 months on the clincher set, but never on the tubulars.
Good luck, and I can't wait to see the fixte version.
|Why did the tubulars hold up?||bigrider|
Dec 13, 2002 5:21 AM
|Your message provoked the why question on the same wheel setup with the only difference being clinchers verses tubulars? Do the tubulars absorb more of the stress when climbing as you throw your weight from side to side? That would account for the spokes holding up on the tubulars.|
Dec 13, 2002 6:16 AM
|I think the different profile of the tubular rim made it slightly stronger than the clincher version. The tubular's "box" section had more of a square shape than the clincher's wide (actually not as tall) rectangular shape. The hubs, spokes, and spoke patterns were the same.
Also, I think once a low spoke count rim gets a little too warped after breaking a spoke, spokes tend to break at the same place from there on due to the extra stress and loading. I started marking the replacement spokes with a permanent marker and sure enough, they would be the only spokes that ever broke. I bought them used, so I don't know what history they had. The guy was an LBS owner that had a good 60 pounds on my 135 pounds, so that may have helped!