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Crappy A$$ Bikes(6 posts)

Crappy A$$ BikesGripped
Oct 24, 2003 8:10 AM
So the whiney gear thread has inspired me to brag about my ride ...

2000 (I think) Redline Conquest Pro bought on Ebay for $525 shipped. The specs:

* Rolf Vector Comp clincher wheels. Mismatched set: a red one and a black one. These wheels are beat. The rear one doesn't even have sealed bearings! I had to get the front one rebuilt after a crash so it isn't so beat anymore.
* Ultegra STI shifters
* Ultegra front der.
* 105 rear der.
* Ultegra cranks
* Ultegra BB
* Ultegra cassette
* Radius brakes with Avid cassette pads
* Whatever was on the bike seatpost
* TTT Forgie stem and bars
* Tufo tubular clinchers
* Generic straddle wire hangers

God knows how much it weighs. Since I bought it in Feb, I have put about 5,500 miles on it mostly on the road. It is my only road bike. I live in the Portland, OR area so it has seen LOTS of wet weather riding. I haven't changed the cables or housing, I have just been wiping and lubing them to keep shifting acceptable. Soon after I bought the bike, I replaced the chain, cassette, and BB since they were more than trashed. During the wet weather, I go through brake pads monthly. I have an extra set of wheels for wet weather road riding (105 hubs on CXP 21 rims). This is important since last year I chewed through the sidewalls of a pair of MA3 rims (in less than a year!). During most of the year, I run a 53 big ring and put road tires on the Rolfs.

This is my first year racing 'cross. My only other racing has been 5-6 mtb races (Sport class) about 8 years ago and four road races this year (Cat 4/5) in a local series. So how I ended up racing B's, I'll never know. Anyway, my results on this lame bike?

1) 9/20/03 -- Bend, OR: 1/4 in the C race
2) 9/28/03 -- Hood River, OR: 16/34 in the B race
3) 10/5/03 -- Portland, OR, Alpenrose: DNF in the B race. Pinch flat on the first lap.
4) 10/12/03 -- Portland, OR, Jackson Middle School: 36/58 in the B race. Lame-o excuse: I had to fix a tweaked rim right before the race so not much of a warm up and I was running a Michelin Jet on the front on a course that was slicker than snot.
5) 10/19/03 -- Portland, OR, Barton Park: 25/62 in the B race. Note: 26% of the B field DNF. Had the Tufo tubular clincher on the front for this mud fest.

I don't believe that the quality of my ride has been a limiting factor. If I had been running the Tufos from the get go, I might not have DNF'ed at Alpenrose and might have done better at Jackson because I would have had better traction.
A lot like mine...Dwayne Barry
Oct 24, 2003 8:46 AM
I got a Redline off Ebay for $425, 2 or 3 years ago. It's green, so whatever year they made green ones that's how old mine is. It came with the crappiest components, Sora I think, bar-end shifters. I dropped off a 6-12 inch lip at some speed and taco'd the front wheel on my very first ride!

I'm still using it for racing and commuting, it feels flexy as hell, and I don't think there is a single original component on it by now.
Oct 24, 2003 9:07 AM
"The rear one doesn't even have sealed bearings!"

You make that sound like a bad thing. Reality is non-sealed bearings last MUCH longer than sealed bearings. I've had to replace bearings in Ksyriums after just one season. There's a reason DuraAce and Campy still use regular bearings. Unlike cartridge bearings, regular bearings can be opened up and cleaned after a ride in the muck.

Properly cared for, a loose bearing hub will last forever. I've seen plenty of 30 year old hubs that are still smooth as silk. Another advantage is that you don't need a bunch of special tools to work on them. With cartridge bearings you need a special size bearing press for every different type of hub. Finally, loose bearings have less friction than cartridge bearings.
Oct 24, 2003 9:15 AM
I've had my rear Rolf apart three times so far this year to repack and it spins great. When my front Rolf developed a squeak in the bearings, I had to take it to a shop to get the bearings replaced. Since I have a limited budget, the loose bearings are definitely a better deal for me. I mostly mentioned the bearings to demonstrate how old the Rolfs were.

I've been thinking about finding a wheelset with loose bearings that will be light and stand up to cross for next year.
Oct 24, 2003 11:08 AM
For light, strong cross wheels it's pretty hard to beat DuraAce hubs laced to Reflex rims. If you're light and smooth you can go as light as 28 hole and Revolution spokes. I weigh 175lbs and run a 28 hole Revo front while the rear is 28 hole with Revo non-drive and 14/15 on the drive side. No problems so far. For tires Tufo is the way to go. I run the much heavier black tread tires becaue the treads hold up much longer than the red or yellow tread models. The sealant all but elminiates the issue of punctures.
re: last year's riderichpierce
Oct 24, 2003 12:18 PM
Cannondale H400 hybrid frameset with mile-long chainstays
Old skool Ritchey MTB cranks and 2 rings
Old skool XTR 8 speed derailleurs
beater wheels made up with old galvanized spokes and mismatched rims- an old blue velocity semi-aero and a Ritchey somethin or other, whatever hubs I found in bike shop dumpsters attached to taco'd MTB wheelsets
bar end 8 speed shifters
Quill stem attached to a ebay aluminum fork
46 cm bars, good and heavy
aero brake levers
radius brakes
Time ATAC pedals

won a state masters title, but it's a small state and there weren't a lot of guys showed up. That yellow bomber was like a freaking arrow when the going got sloppy on downhill runs. The combo of weight and long wheelbase- would take a RPG to knock it down.