|CrossCheck Sizing...Help a Newbie||lanpope|
Sep 26, 2003 9:38 PM
|I am ordering my first cross frame this weekend, and I have decided to go w/ a Surly. My problem is that I have never owned a road bike or cross bike so I am kind of lost on sizing. I ride a 20in (large) Karate Monkey w/ a 110mm stem as my mountain bike. When I looked at the specs on the CrossCheck it looks like the toptube is shorter on the 56cm and the 58cm than the toptube on my KM. I am just not sure how these bikes should fit . From standing over road bikes at the shop it seems like I should be a 56 or a 58. Any help you all can provide will be appreciated. I am about 6'1, w/ a 34in inseam, and I weigh about 160. I am real excited about building up the bike, but I want to make sure I get the right size frame.
|On line road bike sizing guides||pitt83|
Sep 27, 2003 3:41 AM
|At coloradocyclist.com or wrenchscience.com are good. They suggest the same size as a "custom fit" from an LBS.
IMHO: If you're between sizes, choose the smaller one for CX to allow easier dismount / remounts
PS: One more day on my Cross Check and my build will be complete (rim tape, tires and bar wrap). Of course I'll post pics.
|Smaller frame = Easeir mounts/dismounts?||TWD|
Sep 27, 2003 12:23 PM
|How will having a smaller frame make dismounting/mounting easier? I've heard this before (particilarly in relation to having more standorver clearance with a smaller frame) but it just doesn't add up to me.
The Bottom Bracket Height (or drop, whichever you prefer) doesn't vary from frame size to frame size on the Surley (or any other cross bike that I've seen geometry charts for).
So, assuming you're running the same size tires, and your saddle position is the same relative to your bottom bracket (which it should be), the overall height from the ground to the top of your saddle won't be any different.
What will be different is your standover height, and how much seatpost you have showing. I don't think that either of these have any real effect on your dismount/remount. The only way that I can see these could factor in would be that having more seatpost showing would give you a little bit of flex/cushion when your butt hits the saddle on remount, and if you grab your tob tube (not all people do) during your dismount you might have to reach a little bit farther down on the smaller frame.
The other thing that will vary between frame sizes would be top tube length. Whether you get the smaller frame or the bigger one, your overall reach from saddle to bar shouldn't be different between the two since the difference will be made up with your choice of the correct stem length to get the reach you want.
Sure, if you just order off the shelf, and don't swap the stem, you would have a longer reach which I think makes for harder remounts. I feel too stretched out and have a harder time hitting the saddle correctly if I remount from the hoods as opposed to the tops of the bar.
If anything, having a bigger frame would make shouldering the bike easier, once again, depending on your style of shouldering the bike.
Am I missing something?
|You're probably right||pitt83|
Sep 27, 2003 3:16 PM
|I'm speaking from someone else's advice which made sense to me at that time. You've obviously put some thought into it. I was only thinking about swinging a leg over the top tube. Lower TT = smaller frame = quicker dismounts is a real simple equation.|
|You're probably right||TWD|
Sep 28, 2003 8:39 PM
|I assume you mean swinging a leg over the top tube to mount the bike from a dead stop. Swinging a leg over the top tube to dismount at speed sounds like a recipe for disaster. It's much faster and safer to the typical cross dismount (swing your leg around the back wheel and then step through between your left leg which is still clipped in and the frame).|
|re: lanky boy||richpierce|
Sep 27, 2003 9:00 AM
|Looks to me like you need a 57-8 effective top tube at the smallest. I am 5'11.5 with a 32-33" inseam and use a 58 and it is small enough. If I went smaller I would lose power- could not stretch out enough w/o getting a 150 stem or something ridiculous. i prefer a compact frame with a longer top tube relative to seat tube and have no problems shouldering with the smaller triangle. With a compact front triangle, when you lift the top tube to a given height, the bike is higher off the ground and clears barriers better.|
|re: CrossCheck Sizing...Help a Newbie||slide13|
Sep 27, 2003 7:40 PM
|I'm 6' and am riding a 56cm Cross Check. I think they seem to run a little big. If I had it to do over again, I might have gone with the 54cm frame instead. I was riding a 57cm Lemond road bike before that fit great. At 6'1" I would probably recomend the 56cm.
These bikes are great. I have had a great time with mine. I loved building it up because there were so many options. Road parts, mtn parts, cross parts, you get your pick of everything out there. Tons of fun!
Sep 28, 2003 1:36 PM
|Yeah, I am kind of lanky, but that is alright w/me. I should have mentioned that I will be racing the bike in a cross series that we have here, but for the rest of the year the bike will be a commuter, all arounder, just fun bike. The crosscheck seems to lend itself to that really well.
Slide...I saw your bike when you posted it a while back, and I think it looks great, love the stealth look. I am going w/ black also. I'll post up some pics when I get it built up.
I have not ordered yet, It will probably be tonight. I think I am going to go w/ the 58. The main reason is that I do not know how comfortable I will be w/ the bars way below the saddle (Like road racers). If think if I go w. the 58cm the saddle will be more in line w/ the tops of the bars, and that seems like it will be more comfortable. I guess I could get the 56 and a hi rise stem, but I think I may just go w/the 58.
Let me know if I am thinking screwy here!