|1992 LX canti straddle cable?||mtbgirl|
Jun 30, 2003 3:24 PM
|I've got an old pair of LX cantis (circa 1992) that I want to put on my new cx bike...the only problem is that they require an extremely thick cable running through the circular hanger/clamp (cable hanger? - sorry, don't know the lingo) or the clamp doesn't work. I'd rather use standard dia. brake cable, so I'm guessing I need a new cable hanger & straddle cable...
Does anyone know if a standard dia-comp straddle cable works with an LX brake arm?(ie. does the cable anchor fit the arm?) I'm guessing I can also use, say, a dia-comp cable hanger?
|re: 1992 LX canti straddle cable?||The Walrus|
Jun 30, 2003 7:49 PM
|Any aftermarket straddle cable/hanger will work, and work better than the stock Shimano unit; the Shimano hanger allows only a small range of adjustments. Using virtually anything else will let you play with the height of the hanger and the spread of the cantis. Tektro has a hanger/cable set that I get at REI for about $5. It's like an overgrown version of the Avid Tri-Dangle, and works as well as the high-zoot stuff.
As for needing a thick cable, you don't. Look at the (admittedly lousy) photo; there's a "channel" for the cable at the center of the hanger, in line with the cable housing. It's separated from a second, narrower channel by a tiny ramp. Just run the cable in through the larger channel, clamp the cable to the canti, and then lift the cable over the little ramp into the other channel.
|...but what you really need...||The Walrus|
Jun 30, 2003 8:03 PM
|...is an aftermarket hanger like this Tri-Dangle. Having the brake cable separate from the straddle wire will let you adjust the lever force and modulation by running the hanger higher or lower as needed, and having lots of straddle wire to play with will let you run the posts all the way in for some serious power.|
|...but what you really need...||arctic hawk|
Jul 1, 2003 3:11 AM
(my $0.02 worth)
|...but what you really need...||MShaw|
Jul 1, 2003 11:50 AM
|Can you say Onza Chill Pill?
Sorry I don't have any pictures of the one on the front of my JtS.
|...but what you really need...||OffRoadTourer|
Jul 3, 2003 6:14 AM
|Some questions for Walrus,
What size shoe & frame are you? Do you ever clip your brakes on your shoes?
Is that a Voodoo with Race Face cranks, Shimano 535's, XT canti's and LX front derailler? If so, could you please put 959's and an XT front mech on it, and then sell it to me?
|Phewww!!! Gives me the creeps to have someone ogling my bike...||The Walrus|
Jul 3, 2003 10:37 AM
|...like that. (Good eye, though!) 'Tis indeed a '99 Wazoo, and you nailed the spec (not visible--the XT rear and 12-32 XTR Ti cassette). Traded a Litespeed frame to a shop rat who "didn't know what to do" with the VooDoo. Well, duh... I should be thankful he was so clueless, because it's virtually flawless. A few parts upgraded, and it's my "desert island bike".
I think by VooDoo's weird sizing it's a 53; never had any heel strikes on the cantis (size 10 1/2 shoes...)
Ha! Sell it? Ha!
|Walrus is right...||Steve_O|
Jul 1, 2003 9:47 AM
|I think this picture is the setup you are describing right?
The problem with this setup is that Shimano forces you to go with a pre-set cable length for your straddle cable (fixed by the housing on the right side coming out of the circular disk). This setup doesn't account for brakes with the pads fully extended to the ends of the posts (ala Walrus's pict) or at the other extreme with the pads close to the brake.
You'd probably be better off with a traditional hanger like the DiaCompe or maybe an Avid TriDangle or similar. By varying the straddle cable length you can really affect the braking power...
Traditionally a shorter straddle cable gives you more power and less modulation (brakes are on/off). Longer straddle cables give you more modulation but slightly less power. See Sheldon Brown on this.
I prefer the short straddle cable and just set up some Suntour cantilever brakes with great power... Even for 8 year old brake pads! Can't wait to try these brakes with some bigger KoolStop pads!
|But wait, there's more....||dpb|
Jul 2, 2003 9:48 AM
|You can do the same thing with the shimano hangers...just replace the gray housing that you see above with standard cable housing, cut to fit however you like it. Don't tell me you don't have any spare housing kicking around either, because it's a lie. A dirty, dirty lie. Hah, but seriously, that's my setup and I find it works in a pinch, like a charm, and whatnot.
Jul 2, 2003 9:58 AM
|How would this work? It would lengthen the side with the housing but you cannot lengthen the fixed side with the QR portion. I am wondering because I have a hanger with a very short cable and it results in no power at the brake. I would like to lengthen it if it is possible.|
Jul 2, 2003 1:11 PM
|In looking at my setup, you can adjust the height of the circular lock relative to the angle of the non-drive side brake. So you can move the lock up higher but the brake has to be moved in a bit. If you move this higher, you then have to lengthen the cable housing to elevate the position of the 'stop'. Make any sense? It's a bit of a hack job I guess...|
Jul 3, 2003 6:30 AM
|If that is your Lightspeed, for shame! Clean that bike.|
Jul 3, 2003 7:56 AM
|Actually it belongs to Chuck, one of our electrical engineers. He's a year round commuter here in Chicago and rarely cleans the bike (which drove me nuts when I first met him). Maybe if he was a mechanical engineer he'd have more respect for the moving parts!
Steve-O (has tried to convince Chuck to add on some knobbies and take that bike offroad!)
Jul 3, 2003 11:20 AM
|I like a little dirt on the frame, it shows that I actually ride it on th trails through the mud & gore. I especially like to contrast with the roadies I do 150 km with every week. I've even got a big splotch of blood still on my downtube from a wipe-out a few weeks ago. Nothin' more cool than blood on your bike.
I try to keep the chain etc pretty clean, but I only occasionally wash the frame.
|Thanks all! nm||mtbgirl|
Jul 2, 2003 8:21 AM