|Any way to fit 130mm rear wheel into a 135mm steel frame?||Auriaprottu|
Dec 12, 2002 11:02 PM
|I mean, I know the wheel will go into the dropouts, but is this going to affect balance/symmetry? Do I need to have the dropouts moved "in" 2.5mm on each side, or is this really too minimal to bother with? Thanks in advance.|
|re: Any way to fit 130mm rear wheel into a 135mm steel frame?||Eager Beagle|
Dec 13, 2002 1:38 AM
|Should bend enough and stay straight - check the wheel at the brakes and the BB juction.
If not - just put a couple of spacers inboard of the frame on the spindle.
|You might want to check with this . . .||Look381i|
Dec 13, 2002 5:38 AM
|From Cycling Tech Talk Forum:
|You might want to check with this . . .||jjohnson05|
Dec 13, 2002 5:43 AM
|Just squeeze it together. The only problem will be that changing the wheel in and out will be more difficult. Just be clad you're not trying to go the other way.|
|What I've been told...||greg n|
Dec 13, 2002 6:52 AM
|Pushing the dropouts in that much won't affect the frame. You may also consider having the stays cold-worked. Any decsent LBS can do it for about $10-$15.|
|What I've been told||triangleforge|
Dec 13, 2002 8:48 AM
|You could also specify that they cold-set & align the dropouts at 132.5 -- Surly does that (with a trademarked name for the "feature" that I forget) so that you can fit either 130 or 135 wheels.
|Surly's "Gnot-rite" 132.5mm spacing (nm)||1x1 Speed Craig|
Dec 13, 2002 11:48 AM
|replace the axle||bk19|
Dec 13, 2002 8:51 AM
|Rather than re-work the frame, how about just replacing the axle? It shouldn't be more than $10 for a replacement QR axle and is very easy to do.
You don't really say for what purpose you intend to use this. Is this a newer CX frame that is spaced for 135mm and you are trying to use an existing spare road wheel which is 130mm spaced? If that's the case, you probably don't want to lose the ability to swap it with your road bike. If so, just do as the others have suggested and just pinch the drops together.
|replace the axle||The Walrus|
Dec 14, 2002 12:50 PM
|Even if you have it done at your LBS, it should be very reasonable. My favorite shop rat did the job for $28, and got it perfect the first time. That alone made it worth the cost to me.|
|Doing the reverse now ... works fine||GlowBoy|
Dec 13, 2002 12:03 PM
|I just replaced my 'crosser's rear wheel, and the store inadvertently sold me one with a 135mm axle on it (which technically means I have a real 29" MTB wheel!) But the Volpe's frame is steel, so I just squeezed it in. A friend recently did the same thing with a new 130mm Cosmos wheel on his old 126mm Fuji road bike.
If your drive-side chainstay is heavily manipulated for tire/chainring clearance, I suppose it might pull the dropouts on one side further in than the other. Otherwise I wouldn't worry about it as long as the frame is steel or Ti. Just a little harder to squeeze the wheel in.
If you are interested in cold setting your frame to 130mm, here's an article on how to do it: