|spreading rear dropouts to fit wider hub||lookin for help|
Oct 17, 2002 6:25 AM
|I am slowly building up my Lemond Poprad (wife pregnant and house additions can sure flop your priorities!) I was thinking of building the wheel set with lx hub but I am petty sure they are 135mm and the frame dropouts are 130mm. Can you spread them? Will it be to stressfull on the frame?
|re: spreading rear dropouts to fit wider hub||flyweight|
Oct 17, 2002 7:38 AM
|I can be very hard on the frame, especially on lightweight steel frames. I've seen at least two frames that cracked as a result of running a 135mm hub in a 130mm frame. A 105 hub isn't very expensive and will save you the worry.|
|re: spreading rear dropouts to fit wider hub||TWD|
Oct 17, 2002 9:35 AM
|I wouldn't mess with spreading the frame for the sake of running a used LX hub. As Flyweight said, you can pick up a 105 hub for cheap ($32 I think).
If your dead set on using that hub, you could probably play around with the spacers to get a workable combination to respace your axle to 130mm.
I had an old XT hub sitting around the garage on a trashed mtb wheel. I was thinking of rebuilding it as an extra cross wheel. That hub had an extra 5mm spacer on the left side of axle. I just took it out and recentered the axle. The ends of the axle stick into the dropout 2.5mm further on each side, but it isn't enough so that they stick out past the dropout causing the skewer to bottom out against the axle.
Shimano's European site shows an expanded view of the axle for an LX hub. It has an 8 mm and 3mm spacer on the left side of the hub. You could probably ditch the 8mm and replace it with a 3mm from your LBS for a net decrease of 5mm.
If you go this route, remember that you'll have to adjust your spoke lenghts accordingly when you build the new wheel, since the center to flange distances will have changed by 2.5mm when you respaced the axle. Also, you may want to take a closer look at your dropouts, to make sure they can handle the extra 2.5 mm of axle length.
I can't think of any reasons why this wouldn't work, unless anybody else can think of something I'm overlooking. Anyone???
|I think I will just go with the 105||lookin for help|
Oct 17, 2002 10:11 AM
|That seems like to much to worry about! No need to place any undue stress on the frame.
Thanks for the advice
Oct 17, 2002 10:35 AM
|they have mavic ma3s laced to 105 hubs for $115 at jensonusa. i picked up a set for my wife's cross check and they're fine wheels.
what other parts are you still looking for? i have a bunch of small parts floating around and i'm always down to sell parts really cheap if it means getting someone on their bike!
Oct 17, 2002 11:53 AM
|yea stick to road hubs. 105 is the same price as LX. why stress a great frame|
|105 vs ultegra hubs||Jakob|
Oct 17, 2002 12:04 PM
|is there a difference between ultegra and 105 hubs? as near as i can tell, the only difference is the logo.|
|what other parts are you still looking for? THE LIST IS LONG||lookin for help|
Oct 17, 2002 12:22 PM
|I am just getting started.... My goal was to have it running after the first of the year (that is what I told my wife... just a few parts at a time!!!!!) I just installed the head set and the BB and that is it.... plan was to get the wheels then settle on a stem. I have a set of bell lap bars. Wheels and stem were going to be November purchases. I still need Cranks (was also considering LX there but may just go 105 all the way for drivetrain), Still need set of brake/sti shifters, seat post, seat, new set of ATAC pedals. I guess that is about it.... I have a older set of suntour comp canti's i plan on using from an old Fisher Supercaliber and and old set of the comp Cranks that I mayuse if I can match them up. I am not too up on all that.|
|what other parts are you still looking for? THE LIST IS LONG||Jakob|
Oct 17, 2002 1:44 PM
|how tall are you? i have a set of 105 cranks that i used for about 5 months, but the rings are brand new because i had a single ring up front. the only catch is that they are 170s. e-mail me at firstname.lastname@example.org if you're interested.|
|what other parts are you still looking for? THE LIST IS LONG||atpjunkie|
Oct 17, 2002 2:47 PM
|have a set of Aluminum Aliums (slightly used) if you need and I
have Kore 120 x0 Stem as well. Price very negotiable. funny how everybody here tries to help each other get rigged. what a nice forum. RE: 105 vs Ultegra I think the ultegra has a better hub body and bearings.
|Another point of view...||triangleforge|
Oct 17, 2002 12:12 PM
|At the outset, let me say you're probably best off going with the plan suggested above -- get a decent road rear wheel & be done with it.
That said, I don't expect the world would come crashing down around your ears if you properly cold set the rear triangle for a 135 hub. I've reset the rear spacing on at least four of my bikes and been party to at least a dozen more, with not a single problem. All of these were from 120 spacing to 130, so you're even talking about a bigger change. Granted, by definition these were all Reynolds 531 or older Columbus, Ishiwata or True Temper tubing, but I can pretty well guarantee your new-steel Lemond went through a much more hellacious alignment session before it left the factory.
Steel is a pretty maleable medium (check out my screen name if you're curious about just how maleable!) If you really, really wanted to go ahead with a conversion to 135, I strongly suspect you'd be OK.
Then again, it's likely not worth the hassle, at least until Shimano decides to make the 130 spacing obsolete...
|ahhh.. i kept wondering what triangleforge meant||lookin for help|
Oct 17, 2002 12:24 PM
|the rear on the poprad is reynolds 531 but I just really see the need to bend it.... the 105's will do me fine.|
|Of course "cold setting" isn't...||triangleforge|
Oct 17, 2002 12:35 PM
|Of course, you don't cold-set a bike frame with a smithing hammer & anvil! That, and a forge at 1900+ degrees F isn't all that good for your paint job.
But I just had to rationalize all those frame alignment tools I've "had to have" over the years in a world that is increasingly made up of carbon, Ti & aluminum bikes!
|this might help||Steve_O|
Oct 17, 2002 1:09 PM
|Good old Sheldon has some thoughts...
I cold set a frame earlier this year for a customer on a Reynolds 520 touring bike. Even with the proper tools in the shop this isn't something I would do by choice. It took a fair amount of force to permanently move the frame from 130mm to 135mm for an MTB hub the customer wanted to use (Touring bike application)...
|re: spreading rear dropouts to fit wider hub||BAM|
Oct 17, 2002 5:04 PM
|Try putting in a mtn. hub to see if it fits. The 2002 poprad I had fit a Sram9.0- the frame spacing was a little wider than 135 and I didn`t have to stretch the frame at all. The spaceing was far from exact.|| |