|What specs to consider when going custom||Ash|
Sep 10, 2002 8:59 AM
|I'll be getting a custom frame built soon, and need some
direction regarding what specs to consider customizing.
What are some of the things to think about and advantages/disadvantages.
some off the top of my head are
-rear drop out spacing
-top or bottom cable routing
-sloping or straight top tube
-bosses to run down tube shifters
-1" or 1 1/8 inch threaded or threadless fork
the bike will be used mainly as a commuter/fireroader, but I want to keep racing cross in the back of my mind.
I'm 140lbs, riding in SW virginia
|re: What specs to consider when going custom||atpjunkie|
Sep 10, 2002 12:42 PM
|this is what you need to think about
Standover (seat tube)
Top Tube Length
Dial these two things in as these are the the impotant things
cable routing and bosses are personal choices (and sometimes purely cosmetic) I'd skip the down tube shifters though
at 140 lbs I'm assuming you are fairly short, a sloping TT might not give you proper room for portage. Go with a straight TT and "fit" the bike (it is custom ya know) see above
fork, go threadless (more options and choices) 1.125 is stiffer but sometimes not available for steel frames.
as far as dropouts, most use road spacing but figure what kind of hubs you are going to use and base your decision on this.
|re: What specs to consider when going custom||seamus|
Sep 10, 2002 1:18 PM
|Specifically addressing the shifter bosses, I'd recommend going with traditional bosses, whether you're going STI or bar-end shifters or whatever. I had a custom cross bike built with head-tube mnted shift cable stops, and they interfered with the cantilever cable in front when making low-speed turns.
That's why Waterford recommended downtube bosses on my current bike. You wouldn't think it, but having cables mounted a few inches down the headtube allows the housing to flex and turn with the bars, so it doesn't interfere with the brakes.
Another consideration just to confuse you: bottom bracket height. Traditional cross is high for chainring and pedal clearance, road is low for stability. I have one of each for different types of riding/courses. If you're going to do a lot of road/adventure type riding, a low bb is kinda nice. It's also great for dismounts/remounts as the seat's not so far above planet earth. It really depends on where you ride and what you prefer.
Sep 10, 2002 1:41 PM
|I am not a fan of compact frames, pure aesthetics. |
I knew I was running as a single speed for the time being. I decided on horizontal drop outs along with all the trimmings for a geared bike, rear eyelets for panniers, straight fork, top routed cables, 130mm rear spacing and not heafty clearence for tires on the fork the michelin sprints are tight (my choice) same goes with the rear, I have no intentions of running 45mm tires.
I speced out a 1" headtube, reason being I am 135 lbs, the headtube length was 80mm, not much chance of me breaking a steerer and finally aethestics once agian I did not think a 1 1/8 headtube on a reynolds 531 (853 teardrop downtube) frame would look good. I also added a downtube water mount. I think that covers all...
|What specs to consider when going custom||atpjunkie|
Sep 10, 2002 2:19 PM
|agree as well. 1" (if steel) then use customization to fit to the body, everything else is personal. Yes, add a bottle mount for adventure riding.|
|What specs to consider when going custom||OffRoadTourer|
Sep 10, 2002 7:43 PM
|One area I ran into problems with was cable routing. Top tube routed cables mean you can only use top pull front deraillers. Currently Shimano make no top pull road deraillers, which limits you a lot. A down tube routed front derailler cable will allow you the flexibility to pick and choose from a much wider variety of bottom pull front deraillers.|| |