|sora vs tiagra vs 105 vs ultegra||lookin for help|
Aug 28, 2002 8:36 AM
|I do not yet have a cx bike but am dying for one. I have been looking into the Lemond Poprad but I am just not sold on the Sora components. For that matter it seems that most bikles that fit into my price range (under $1500) that come as complete run sora or tiagra but none of you seemed to be running them.
The other option is to go custom - get the frame and then build it. If i did this I would probably look at mostly 105 stuff. What are you guys running and what about Sora?
To go with a custom frame it is looking like at least $800 for a good steel frame and so to build I don't know if I can keep it under $1500 without some cheaper parts. which is more important?
Chip in SE ohio
|re: sora vs tiagra vs 105 vs ultegra||Offroadnut|
Aug 28, 2002 9:03 AM
|Check out the 2003 Fuji Cross, all Ritchey and 105 for under $1000.00. Good luck!|
|re: sora vs tiagra vs 105 vs ultegra||lnin0|
Aug 28, 2002 11:55 AM
|Under $1500. You should be able to find a lot of stuff under 1500 with 105 on it> The Redline Conquest Pro, Bianchi Axis, Kona Jake the Snake are just a few than run around $1000-1200 with 105.
I have heard really good things about the Bianchi Axis and how supple that aluminum frame is. It also has some very nice parts and the new aero Shimano wheels. It is a bit out of my price range so I just ordered a '03 Redline Conquest with Tiagra parts. Also the Jamis Nova is a nice steel frame with Tiagra parts.
Frankly I haven't seen too many complaints about the Sora or Tiagra groups on CX bikes. Anyway a lot of this is stuff that may get broke off and need to be replaced - so that is something else to consider. My main concern is mushy brakes and no top mount brake levers (although the Conquest Pro does come stock with them).
|after 105 its all the same||B123|
Aug 28, 2002 12:44 PM
|In my experience 105, Ultegra and D/A all seem to perform similarly. D/A has a more pronounced "click" but other than that its just less plastic and more metal. As far as durability...I have one 105 lever and one ultegra lever on my bike, (got the ultegra from a friend for cheap) and haven't noticed any difference. Both have lasted for several years.
I'm not a big fan of the Sora shifters, that little thumb button. A friend of mine broke the lever off while shifting, but that's probably rare.
|none of the above if you have the option||lonefrontranger|
Aug 28, 2002 2:12 PM
|As I recall from the General board, this is your first foray into the roadie world. If I were you, I'd peruse the following thread:
Buy an affordable frame/fork (Redline, Surly, et.al.) and put bar-ends, Gripshifts, or Campy (Mirage, Veloce, Centaur) on it. As varmit and atpjunkie observed, you will either pay now or pay later...
|none of the above if you have the option||atpjunkie|
Aug 28, 2002 3:55 PM
|I agree, if yer starting from scratch buy an affordable frame (look in the classifieds here or ebay) and build with Campy Centaur. If you have to go shimano use barcons. Campy will handle the gunk better. Or...I also know a guy who put xt MTB shifters behind his top mount Pauls. He shifts like an MTB. Actually works well. I'm a bit old fashioned and for some reason like the way barends look and function.|
|are bar ends what I am thinking?||lookin for help|
Aug 29, 2002 5:32 AM
|Anyone have a pic? Yeah this is more first foray into the 700c world and I am learning alot. Plus, while I am getting the funds together to buy I have time to contemplate the options.
When I here you guys say bar ends I am thinking of shifters that come directly off the end of the bar. Are those easy top reach?
At the moment I am most interested in the Surley crosscheck frame (which actually comes built as a bike for $895) or a gunnar frame.
thanks this info is very helpful
Aug 30, 2002 4:43 AM
|Bar-end shifters or barcons plug into the ends of you handlebar. The up-side is that they're inexpensive, easy to install, switchable to friction shifting and easy to replace if you trash them. The down-side is that you can only shift them from the drops [not a problem if that's your riding style] and some people [like me] have a habit of bashing their knees into them and making unexpected shifts when powering out of the saddle.
If you're just building a bike and you're not sure if you want to invest in STI, you can always start by trying barcons. If they work for you, you will have saved $150.
Aug 30, 2002 6:24 PM
|and you'll save another $150 about every 6 months of hard riding as you'll have to replace your dead ones.
If you are building up from scratch and want Lever shifting by all means GO CAMPY, otherwise stick to the cons (unless you're silly rich) and have a race mechanic
|thanks for the link (nm)||lookin for help|
Aug 29, 2002 5:54 AM
|also check out Soma||lvonmoss|
Aug 29, 2002 2:00 PM
|frame & fork for $459 through bullteksports.com, with free shipping in U.S. then you can get an ultegra build kit ~$900 and still keep it under $1500. they'll probably knock $$ off if you swap the STI for barcons too.
i heard too much about surly's being heavy so i went with the soma. will post pics when it's built up.
|also check out Soma||atpjunkie|
Aug 29, 2002 5:14 PM
|check the first Poprad in the "what are you riding" post. First One. Yes, shifters at end of bars. No not really hard to reach but watch the knees when up and hammering|| |