|What size seatpost on colnago dream cross?||buffalosorrow|
Jul 30, 2002 3:52 AM
|I Have been using a 26.8 but I keep breaking binder bolts, most likely due to over tension on my part. I have tried to slip in a 27.2 but it will not fit and I do not want to force. Does any one know what the said diameter is?|
|they are 27.2||lonefrontranger|
Jul 30, 2002 6:43 AM
|That being said, I really had a bit of a struggle getting mine seated. Colnago is known to have been somewhat scatty with their tolerances, so it's possible yours is slightly under diameter.
My Morgul Bismark TT/road bike has a 27.0 clamp diameter, which is a really weird / obsolete spec. I know this post diameter still exists out there in the marketplace if you look. This would probably be a good compromise for you if your clamp is indeed underspec. The only way to truly know this is to borrow a *good* set of calipers from the local shop (or your friendly neighborhood engineering quality inspector...) and measure it. 27.0 is an old MTB spec, and I'm sure you can find good posts in 27.0 - they are still made, and I was able to get a brand new Easton carbon for the Morgul.
|the build is started||JohnG|
Jul 30, 2002 7:03 AM
|Oh, this frame is way sweet.
Humphrey doesn't look too impressed though. ;)
|the build is started||mackgoo|
Aug 1, 2002 10:51 AM
|Man Bro beautiful frame, but get it off that table.|
|took a measurement...||buffalosorrow|
Jul 30, 2002 9:42 AM
|and seems to be in the range of 27.0- 27.1, definatly not 27.2. I was thinking that the seat tube was scant to begin with, and couple with the previous owner running a 26.8 seatpost the upper portion might have squeezed in a tenth or so. I did mangage to get a new binder clamp and bolt.|
|took a measurement...||flyweight|
Jul 31, 2002 12:26 PM
|Has it been cleaned out properly? Colnago leaves a lot to be desired when it comes to finishing their frames. In the past (~10 years ago) you had to tap the bottom bracket threads, bottle cage mounts, face the head tube and fork, and do a bunch of other stuff that most good American builders take care of before sending the frame to the dealer. I know they're gotten somewhat better but still hear stories about Colnago and other Italian frames that need work before they can be built up. A few years ago I bought a BiTitan road frame and had to rather extensively hone the seat tube to get the post to fit properly. The heat of welding on the chainstays and top tube deformed the seat tube such that the post would go in. It was the right size, just not the right shape! My Colnago cross bike was a Rabo hand down so it had already been built up once before I bought it saving me any hassles. It takes a 27.2 post with no problem though it's made from Easton rather than the Columbus tubing in the Dream.|
|they are 27.2||flyweight|
Jul 31, 2002 12:20 PM
|27.0 goes back a lot further than the MTB. It was a common size for many Reynolds tubed bikes.|
Aug 1, 2002 10:03 AM
|I got a hold of an older 27.2 stem one with a bit of wear and managed with some force and lubrication to set the seatpost. |
I feel a bit better, now on to what seatpost to purchase.
|glad to hear it||lonefrontranger|
Aug 2, 2002 8:08 PM
|they're right, I forgot to even mention about how being out of round can bollix things.
From what I've been told, ernesto still expects his distributors and/or dealers to be pro level enough to do the frame prep on the bikes sent to the U.S. This isn't wrong, it's merely old-school. Back in the 60's, 70's and early 80's ALL high-end bikes regardless of where they came from had to be coldset, tapped and faced at the shop because that's where they were going to be built, period. In the last decade with the explosion of Internet mailorder, many folks are buying direct and building frames straight from the wholesaler, so yes, I do agree that most frames come immaculately prepped nowdays. A lot of this is due to frame materials like Ti and carbon that are near impossible to booger around with and should theoretically be correct from the get-go, but also because some hapless end user without the requisite $3000 case of Campy frameset tools is going to be the first one handling them. Perhaps Colnago simply doesn't feel it's wise to align a frame that's going to bounce around in a shipping container for 2 months, who knows, and as for tapping, I tap the BB and face the HT on ANY frame I build whether it's been built or is new or whatever; it saves a LOT of angst down the road.
You have to watch out that you're not buying one of the 2nd tier Colnago frames which are normally designated for sale in places like Central / South America but which show up quite a lot in the US on "discount", on the Internet or at budget wholesalers. This isn't an urban legend, I've seen the difference for myself and it is shocking. These 2nd tier Colnagos are almost always made in Eastern Europe, NOT in Italy, and yes they do have crappy paint and finishing. Many manufacturers sell their "seconds" to less affluent countries because their dealers simply cannot afford anything else. It's just that people in the U.S. are so hell-bent on getting Colnagos on the cheap that we see way more of the "greymarket" ones than we really should.
From my experience with Trialtir (Colnago's U.S. exclusive distributor), Ernesto expects WAY too much from them. The folks I've dealt with there would be lucky to understand which end of an allen key to turn much less how to prep and face a frame. Unfortunately to be certain you're getting the Italian frames and are not getting ripped off on 2nd quality greymarket ones, you have to go through them.
The USE Alien carbon I've got in my Dream Cross is doing fine and dandy by the way.