May 5, 2002 9:53 AM
|I am, indeed, building up a new cross bike. here's what I have:
slightly beat up 105 long cage rear derailleur
12-25 DA cassette
going to get:
LX cranks (geting 48/36 outer and middle rings)
LX front derailleur
avid shorty 6s
any incompatiblities? should I go for a slight rise on the stem? any other recommendations?
May 5, 2002 12:20 PM
|looking at an airborne carpe diem frame, as I mentioned on another thread. here's the problem: the TT is quite a bit longer than the one on my TCR (54.6cm on the CD as opposed to 53.5cm on the TCR). and my TCR's (effective) seems to be a little too long for comfort. I'm switching to a 9cm stem (-10 degree rise) on the good 'ol TCR. what're my options on the carpe diem, stem/bar-wise? looks like I can't use my profile stem (0 rise, 100mm). will I have to get an extremely-short reach bar?|
|a smart a$$ answer||jason in nh|
May 6, 2002 3:06 AM
|go buy a frame from your lbs, they will look at you riding your present bike and be able to determine a good position on your cross frame when you buy it from them.|
|hmm... you seem to have my problem||lonefrontranger|
May 6, 2002 8:06 AM
|And I don't think the CD will work for you at all, no matter how you slice it.
I know the Airborne guys pretty well and had a chance at one of their frames for about half what my Colnago cost me. I considered it, but there was no way on earth to make that frame fit me, no matter what I did.
Bottom line was for me, Italian stuff fits better owing to the tendency for Italian builders to go for shorter geometry on the TT, especially for 'cross bikes, where balance and control matter far more than aero position. Depending on geometry and how much things have changed since I paid attention, you will most likely be better off going the Empella or Bianchi route - Bianchi especially if you want a decent frame at an affordable price.
As far as going for a too-long bike, don't do it. I spent 2 of the most miserable seasons of my racing career clotheslined over a Trek that was 2 cm too long. I had awful back and neck problems and saddle sores I hesitate to mention in polite company.
May 6, 2002 11:25 AM
|I wouldn't rule out the CD frame based on the TT length. The TT is 1cm longer and if you put on a 9cm zero or positive rise stem you are going to be less than 1cm longer in your cockpit than your current road bike set-up.
You also need to look at the standover heights and make sure you shouldn't go one size down. What are the measurements on the CD the size down from the 54.6cm TT one?
May 6, 2002 2:14 PM
|um. the CD with the 54.6cm TT is the 50 cm size. there IS no smaller size.
I think I'll take LFR's advice and say to hell with it. it's a nice bike, but the best bike is the one that actually fits and all...
|nothing smaller, that sucks||climbo|
May 7, 2002 5:17 AM
|that's a long TT to have as their smallest size. Oh well...|
May 6, 2002 8:10 AM
|... Although I will admit I don't know too much about the Shimano shifters. I'll make the assumption that the F/D should work, but may be someone will contribute and verify, or correct me.
As far as the TT on the Carpe, try looking at a seatpost with a more forward position. The one post that comes to mind is the Fast Forward post from Profile (link HERE - from Colorado Cyclist page). That could help shorten the TT.
Heading to your nearest LBS would be good if you're not too familiar with fitting. But if you are familiar, then I would suggest gauging fit by starting out comparing fit on your old bike. Make slight changes (if any) from that "base". So far, the only thing you really mention that you don't like from your old frame is the TT.
Hope that helps,
|No, DON'T EVER||Ray Sachs|
May 7, 2002 9:04 AM
|try to adjust for too long a reach to the bars by moving the seat forward. The most important "fit" position on the bike is the relationship of the saddle to the bottom bracket. Once you have that dialed in (shouldn't vary much if at all between bikes, except for a TT/Tri bike), change whatever you have to with the bars or stem, but don't mess with the saddle. Particularly on a cross bike, you don't want your center of gravity to be too far forward.
May 7, 2002 6:39 PM
|Lesson learned. Disregard my faulty logic.
May 7, 2002 7:34 PM
|saddle fore/aft and height are the first adjustments. Use a plumb bob to set your kneecap over or just behind the pedal axle in the 3/9 o' clock position. Once that is set adjust reach by stem. If it's too stretched out your frame is too big. Ray is right!|
|re: equipment recommendations||jrm|
May 6, 2002 11:42 AM
|LX cranks are compact 22,32,42T. i dont think you can find a 36T middle nor a 48T big ring for that crank. If you want that set up youll have to either buy a cross specific set, a standard MTB set, and buy the individual rings or buy a road set and change the outter ring, thats what i did.
Stem wise i just bought a 0 degree stem and use the spacers to varie the pitch and height.
|re: equipment recommendations||weiwentg|
May 6, 2002 4:29 PM
|I'm looking for a triple crank (I am going to be racing as well as training). what kind of cranks am I looking at, and where can I get them? I know the 5-arm XTR crank has the right chainring sizes, but that's a wee bit expensive...|
May 7, 2002 8:39 AM
|The LX crank might work, but only if it is a 5 arm, compact model (94/58 bcd). A couple of companies make 36t middle rings in a 94bcd, but I think the biggest I have ever seen was a 46t. I have no connection to these folks, but a quick search of "chainrings" on eBay turned this up
Depending on the training you will be doing, this might be big enough, but if you plan on doing faster group rides on the road you might be wishing for that 48t big ring.
To get what you want, look around and see if you can find a standard (110/74bcd) crank. With a standard bcd crank you can get the triple, as well as have a 36t or 38t middle and a 48t big ring. I know Race Face makes one, but that will still be kind of pricey. Any shop with a QBP catalog can order something cheaper made by Sugino or someone similar for a lot cheaper.