|Weight vs Value question||EuroDog|
Aug 2, 2001 9:32 AM
|I have a Surly X check that I bought last year. I raced it all cross season and did poorly, very poorly. I know it's not just because of the bike but I'm looking for every advantagee I can find. The bike weighs in at around 26 pounds, less with race wheels. This Fall I can afford either a new lighter frame and use the Sora components that came stock on the Surly or all new lighter components on the Surly frame. What do you think? I shooting for sub 22 lbs.
|re: Weight vs Value question||Pogliaghi|
Aug 4, 2001 12:59 AM
|The heaviest Surly Crosscheck frame weighs in at 4.88lbs, and you're looking to drop 4 lbs? I'd look at parts first. |
FYI, I have a 56cm Cross check built w/ a mixture of 105's and misc heavy parts I had lying around and my bike weighs just a hair over 23lbs. Losing that next pound on my bike can be done if I wanted to spend some money. Best of luck to you.
|re: Weight vs Value question||Jan Gerrit Klok|
Aug 5, 2001 5:01 AM
|I'm a real maniac in weight/value comparisons. Just built myself a full-custom Duratec crosser. 56cm c-t, 60cm toptube (yeah, it DOES look like a mountainbike). The frame is close to 4lbs, but the whole bike is at 18.2 lbs already.
I use excel-sheets to work out the cheapest way to gain weight. I know for a fact that weight equals speed, I managed a lot with my ATB as well. Hardtail at 20 lbs without any 'stupid light' parts.
Very important is to look at it part-by part. Weight saved in the rims and tyres is much more valuble of course, it counts double or triple.
To see if an investment is any good, weight-wise, I look at how much I need to pay per gram saved. So if a Flite SLR saddle is 135g, and my present OEM-shit saddle is 280g, the price per gramme is about $0.60 which is very good. Plus the SLR proved to be a great racing saddle.
Other weight-saving tips :
- pedals, in case you use Time. There are lighter alternatives on the market, but not easy to find
- if you're using 2 chainrings, switch to one. Lose one STI and place an aero lever in stead. The Rohloff chainguide is both cheap and light. Do the math!
- Especially on new-to-build bikes, see if you can live with 50cm wide MTB bars, preferably with gripshift. This will save a lot of cash and weight. Up to 400g! STI's are nice, but SO wrong in their price and weight!
- Alu spokenipples and Sapim Laser spokes for the front wheel.
- what bars are you using? A good deal with a nice 220g-bar may be very cost-effective.
- Find a second-hand set of light (57g) quick-release, if yours are heavy (100+)
- If you're riding clincher tires, switch to TUFO tubular clinchers (need 20mm wide max rims). These beauties give you lots of weight savings plus much more speed coming from traction and rolling resistance. The best-ever cross tube, the TUFO Elite (second in Tabor riden by Dlask), is already available as clincher. I distribute this Czech pride in Holland and Belgium. It's fabulous to see my heavy sparewheels offer so much performance all at once, just by switching tires!
If you're up for more [ersonalised advice, just contact me, tuning racebikes on paper is my hobby. I managed to build a ladyfriend an all-new sub-20lbs bike for some $1100, she simply adores it!
Cheers and happy trails,
Jan Gerrit from Holland
|Great! Thanks!||Euro Dog|
Aug 7, 2001 11:30 AM
|That's just a lot of great information. I really like the price per gram way of looking at things.
|Great! Thanks!||Jan Gerrit Klok = "TUFO-man"|
Aug 9, 2001 10:27 PM
|My pleasure Ed, just drop a line should like some more examples or sinsible tuning!